Hotels

Cienfuegos has scores of good casa particular options. You'll find no shortage of jineteros (hustlers) offering to show you a room. You'll find the greatest concentration of casas particulares all along the Prado (Av. 37), as well as surrounding the Parque José Martí and on Punta Gorda. In addition to the Hostal Palacio Azul listed below, dependable and clean choices include: Casa Amistad, Av. 56 no. 2927, between Calles 29 and 31 (tel. 43/51-6143; casamistad@correodecuba.cu), run by the superfriendly and knowledgeable Armando and Leonor, a colonial house with a wonderful front living room, two rooms, and some hearty home-cooked food (it's a stone's throw from Parque José Martí); Casa Piñeiro, Calle 41 no. 1402, between Avenidas 14 and 16, Punta Gorda (tel. 43/51-3808; www.casapineiro.com), an enormous house with friendly owners and a great outdoor oven; Casa Wilfredo, Av. 14 no. 4308 between Calles 43 and 45 (tel. 43/52-8918; wmoralesmartines@yahoo.es) with a small, independent rooftop apartment; and Vista al Mar, Calle 37 no. 210, between Avenidas 2 and 4, Punta Gorda (tel. 43/51-8378; www.vistaalmarcuba.com; gertrudis_fernandez@yahoo.es), in a convenient location with a small, sea-front patio.

Villa Lagarto, Calle 35 no. 4B (tel. 43/51-9966; villalagarto_16@yahoo.com), is run by the very friendly Tony and Maylin and has two breezy, comfortable top-floor rooms, a seawater pool, and a garden overlooking the sea right at the tip of Punta Gorda. Casa Ana María, Calle 35 no. 20 (tel. 43/51-3269), is an old colonial home, also out on Punta Gorda. Hostess Ana María Font D'Escoubet prepares filling meals for reasonable rates, and can help arrange tours and activities around Cienfuegos.

Near Cienfuegos -- In addition to the moderately priced Hotel Club Amigo Faro Luna listed here, Hotel Pasacaballos, Carretera de Rancho Luna, Km 22 (tel. 43/59-2100), is a dour option catering to both Cubans and foreign budget travelers. The only true beach hotel close to Cienfuegos is Club Amigo Rancho Luna (tel. 43/54-8012; www.hotelescubanacan.com); however, this is a rather mediocre place catering to package-tour groups of folks who must be unaware that they have scores of better options all over Cuba. Still, if you want to go swimming for a few hours or the day, the beach here will certainly do. Finca Los Colorados, Carretera Rancho de Luna, Pasacaballos Km 18 (tel. 43/54-8044), a casa particular, is on the road close to the lighthouse.