Emmanuel Hodencq

The namesake of this restaurant is the town's culinary king, having topped even the longtime favorite, Jean-Claude Leclerc. The dynamic chef is equally at home with traditional or moderne cookery, and his delectable dishes almost waltz out of the kitchen and onto your table. Local "wheeler-dealers" (a reference to Michelin tires) and politicos hang out here. The menu features the best of local produce -- perhaps foie gras in caramel vinegar or roasted pigeon with chanterelles. Grilled red mullet is a perfect dish, as is medallion of veal in grainy mustard sauce.

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