Active Pursuits

Coffs Harbour's main advantage is its position as a good base for exploring the surrounding countryside. You must see the World Heritage-listed Dorrigo National Park, 68km (42 miles) west of Coffs Harbour, via Bellingen. Perched on the Great Dividing Range that separates the lush eastern seaboard from the arid interior, the rainforest here is one of the best I've seen in Australia. (It's a pity that so much fell to the axes of early settlers.) Entry is free.

The Dorrigo Rainforest Centre (tel. 02/6657 2309) is the gateway to the park and has extensive information on the rainforest. Just outside is the 21m-high (69-ft.) Skywalk, which offers a bird's-eye view of the forest canopy. Several walks leave from the Rainforest Centre, the Glade Picnic Area (about 1km/ 1/2 mile away), and the Never-Never Picnic Area (a 10km/6 1/4-mile drive along Dome Rd.). Most tracks are suitable for wheelchairs. Bring a raincoat or an umbrella; it is a rainforest, after all! The Dorrigo Tourist Information office (tel. 02/6657 2486) is in the center of Dorrigo township.

One of the best tour operators in the area is the award-winning Mountain Trails 4WD Tours (tel. 02/6658 3333; fax 02/6658 3299). Full-day tours that include visits to two rainforest areas and a good lunch cost around A$80 (US$72/£36) for adults and A$60 (US$54/£27) for children under 16. Half-day tours of one rainforest cost A$56 (US$50/£25) for adults and A$40 (US$36/£18) for children.

For a bit more personal action, try horseback riding through the rainforest 23km (14 miles) southwest of Coffs Harbour with Valery Trails (tel. 02/6653 4301; www.valerytrails.com.au). Two-hour rides leave at 10am and 2pm daily and cost A$45 (US$40/£20) per person. Reservations are essential.

Looking for an adrenaline rush? Then head to the Raleigh International Raceway (tel. 02/6655 4017), where you can zip around the track behind the wheel of your very own go-kart. It's 23km (14 miles) south of Coffs Harbour and 3km (2 miles) along Valery Road, off the Pacific Highway, north of Nambucca Heads. Eleven high-speed laps cost A$27 (US$24/£12), and 16 cost A$38 (US$34/£17). It's open daily from 9am to 5pm (to 6pm in summer).