Frommer's Review
Winning a coveted Michelin star, the first for a restaurant in the Tivoli Gardens, this is one of the three or four most-sought-after culinary landmarks in town, lying in The Glassalen, a greenhouse-style building once used as a concert hall and designed by Poul Henningsen as a statement of Danish Pride immediately after World War II. The mastermind behind this sophisticated venue is British-born Chef Paul Cunningham, whose stated desire is to provide Tivoli revelers "with an intense gourmet experience."
The staff might not even bring table settings to your table until they (or Paul himself) engage you in a dialogue about what the kitchen can offer on any given night -- a selection which will invariably be spectacular. Come here for superb food, a sense of international and very hip whimsy, and a creative and upbeat sense of fun. ("I was raped and pillaged and imported into Denmark when I married my Danish wife.") And how does Paul describe the "Gubi Chairs" that line the edges of his bar area? "Like a combination between a tongue and a toilet seat." Paul, more than any other chef in Copenhagen, brings fresh, new, and exciting ideas to his cuisine, spending his winters when the restaurant is closed "traveling, tasting, experiencing, and absorbing new inspirations." The first time we visited, we asked Paul to serve us what Bill Clinton had tasted on his visit. What arrived was hardly Bubba food but a divine free-range chicken from the island of Bornholm served with a confit of veal sweetbreads. We also tasted a perfect butter-roasted Dover sole with corn, capers, and chanterelles. The rhubarb-and-vanilla terrine for dessert brought an enchantment to the already enchanted setting of the Tivoli.
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