Frommer's Review
The Jesuit Block, which includes the Society of Jesús's Church, the Domestic Chapel, the National University of Córdoba, and the National School of Monserrat, has been the nation's intellectual center since the early 17th century. Today the entire complex is a historic museum, although the churches still hold Masses, the cloisters still house priests, and the schools still enroll students.
The Domestic Chapel, completed in 1668, was used throughout much of its history for private Masses and religious studies of the Jesuits. Having practiced their building skills on the Domestic Chapel, the Jesuits finished the main church, called the Compañía de Jesús, in much the same style in 1676. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the Compañía de Jesús is the oldest church in Argentina. Its nave was designed by a Belgian shipbuilder in the shape of an inverted hull, which was the best way to make use of the short wood beams available for construction at the time. The dome is all wood -- no iron is found anywhere -- and the beams remain fastened with raw cowhide. The gilded altarpiece was carved in Paraguayan cedar, indicative of baroque design. At each of the church's wings stands a chapel, one of which has often been used for university graduation ceremonies.
In 1613, the Jesuits founded the National University of Córdoba, the oldest university in Argentina and one of the continent's longtime academic centers. With most of the university (including the medical and law schools) having moved elsewhere in the city, the majority of rooms here now form part of the historic museum. You can visit the Hall of Graduates, the main university library, and the exquisite Jesuit library holding roughly 1,000 books dating back to the 17th century; the books are primarily in Latin, Greek, and Spanish, with the exception of a complete Bible from 1645 written in seven languages. Many of the original books in the library were secreted to Buenos Aires when the Jesuits were first expelled from the Americas, but some are slowly being returned.
The Jesuit library leads to the National College of Monserrat, which opened in 1687 and quickly became one of the country's top public secondary schools. Walking around the cloisters, you can see the classrooms as well as exhibits of early science machines used for mechanics, electronics, magnetics, color, and sound. During the academic year, you will also find students at work here. You can enter the Compañía de Jesús, the university patio, and the Colegio Nacional de Monserrat free of charge. For $1 (55p), you can also visit the Domestic Chapel and the Hall of Graduates.
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