Active Pursuits

Beaches: The Good, the Bad & the Nude

We'd like to report that the Costa del Sol is a paradise for swimmers and sunbathers. Surprisingly, it isn't, although it was the allure of beaches that originally put the "sol" in the Costa del Sol in the 1950s.

The worst beaches -- mainly pebbles and shingles -- are at Nerja, Málaga, and Almuñécar. Moving westward, you encounter the gritty, grayish sands of Torremolinos. The best beaches here are at El Bajondillo and La Carihuela (which borders an old fishing village). Another good stretch of beach is along the meandering strip between Carvajal, Los Boliches, and Fuengirola. In addition, two good beaches -- El Fuerte and La Fontanilla -- are on either side of Marbella. However, all these beaches tend to be overcrowded, especially in July and August. Crowding is worst on Sunday from May to October when beaches are overrun with family picnickers and sunbathers.

All public beaches in Spain are free, and you shouldn't expect changing facilities. There might be a cold shower available on the major beaches -- but that's it.

Although it's not sanctioned or technically allowed by the government, many women go topless on the beaches. Nudity is common on some of the less frequented beaches, although it is against the law. If you take off your suit, you could be arrested by the civil guard. Many bathers flout the law and go nude anyway, but it's not advised. If you want to bare it all, head for the Costa Natura, about 3km (2 miles) west of Estepona. This is the site of the only official nudist colony along the Costa del Sol.

Teeing Off: A Golden Triangle of Golf

Faced with more than 40 places to take a swing on the Costa del Sol, golfers are often overwhelmed by the choice of courses, many of which are championship venues. Here's a trio of courses that rank among the greatest in Europe -- no apologies to Scotland.

• San Roque Golf & Country Club, Urbanización San Roque, Carretera A-7 Km 127, Sotogrande-San Roque (tel. 95-661-30-30; www.sanroqueclub.com), was created by two Englishmen, former Ryder Cup players Tony Jacklin and Dave Thomas, on the grounds of the summer palace of the Domecq sherry dynasty. The back 9 features 2 of the finest holes along the coast.
• Club de Golf Valderrama, Av. de los Cortijos s/n, Sotogrande-San Roque (tel. 95-679-12-00; www.valderrama.com), is in our view número uno among the golf courses of continental Europe. Golf World called it "daring, dramatic, demanding" and we agree. The course was first designed by the grand old man himself, Robert Trent Jones, Sr. Steve Ballesteros (the "Arnold Palmer of Spain") designed the notorious 17th hole, which Ryder Cup players describe as "one of the most strategically challenging holes in the world." Pines and cork trees keep this par-72 course wickedly challenging.
• Real Club de Golf Sotogrande, Paseo del Parque, Sotogrande (tel. 95-277-77-77; www.golfsotogrande.com), is a par-72 course also laid out originally by Robert Trent Jones, Sr. Its 11th hole is buffeted by two prevailing winds blowing in different directions. Many of the fairways are 40 to 50 yards long, and the course is riddled with shimmering lakes evocative of Florida.