Courmayeur -- Not to be confused with a less desirable bar of the same name at the end of the same street, the American Bar, Via Roma 43 (tel. 0165-846707), is one of the most popular watering holes on the après-ski circuit. It's rowdy and sometimes outrageous, but most often a lot of fun. Most guests end up beside either the open fireplace or the long, crowded bar. The place is open all day every day, until 2am in ski season. A few doors down, the Café della Posta, Via Roma 51 (tel. 0165-842272), the oldest cafe in Courmayeur, is as sedate as its neighbor is unruly. Many guests prefer to remain in the warmly decorated bar area, never venturing into the large salon with its glowing fireplace. The place changes its stripes throughout the day, opening as a morning cafe at 8:30am.