Frommer's Favorite Experiences

Listening to the Sea Organ in Zadar: Imagination and engineering created this incomparable music maker, which "broadcasts" sounds made by water movement through openings in the organ's pipes beneath the sea. Add a set of white stone steps descending into the water; they make a matchless venue on which to sit in the moonlight (or sunlight), let the water lap at your feet, and luxuriate in the organ's haunting sounds.

Viewing Mummies in Vodjnan: They are billed as the bodies of holy people who died centuries ago and miraculously never decomposed. They look a little like skeletons shrink-wrapped in leather, but they are a compelling sight. You won't be able to get up close and personal with these relics, but you'll get close enough to recognize them as human in the curtained-off area behind the altar of St. Blaise Church where the light is dim, the music soulful, and the piped-in commentary a little exaggerated. The setting contributes to the atmosphere, which is creepy but riveting, like watching a car wreck about to happen.

Exploring the Village of Hum in Istria: It calls itself the smallest town in the world, and population-wise, it might be. But so many people visit this village high in the Istrian interior that it always seems crowded. The village fathers have done a wonderful job of restoring the buildings in town and making it tourist-friendly.

Strolling Through Mirogoj Cemetery in Zagreb: As much sculpture garden as it is burial ground, this 19th-century cemetery was designed by Herman Bolle. It is home to Croatian patriots, common folk, and people of all faiths and nationalities. The tombstones range from small and simple to enormous and elaborate, but each is a story in itself. Don't miss the black granite slab at the grave of former president Franjo Tuman or the sculpture-rich arcades on either side of the entrance.

Descending Into Ilocki Podrumi: It's like walking down steep steps into a root cellar. You'll get the chills in this second-oldest wine cellar in Croatia from two sources: the temperature and the history that resides in this subterranean chamber. The cellar was looted by the Serbs during the Homeland War, but not before the owners were able to conceal bottles of the best vintages behind a false wall. Today those bottles are out of hiding and on display along with the barrels and vats used to store the winery's newest vintages.

Shopping at Dolac market in Zagreb: Dolac, a market above the main square at the foot of Old Town, is not just a place to buy fruit and veggies. It is a crossroads where people come to see and be seen; to trade gossip; to relax with a cup of coffee; and to meet friends. Early morning is the best time to visit because that's when the bread is freshest, the displays the prettiest, and the people the most interesting.

Wandering around Pula Amphitheater: Smaller than Rome's coliseum but in much better shape, the amphitheater is a lot more accessible to tourists. Don't miss the newly restored underground chambers and their exhibits featuring Istrian history. And if you happen to be in town when a concert is scheduled there, try to get a ticket no matter who is headlining.

Finding Solace at Novalja: Any cove off Novalja can be a private beach. The water just a few feet offshore is so clear you can see the white, sandy bottom 6m (20 ft.) below. If you have a boat, drop anchor for a while, take a dip, and let your stress float away.

Seeing and Being Seen at Tkalciceva Street: This is a designer's runway, a shopper's paradise, a gourmet's delight, and a historian's fascination. This is where Zagreb's cafe society holds court and where everyone -- including tourists -- takes a stroll in the evening to see what's happening.

Meditating at the Holy Cross Church in Nin: Holy Cross is the oldest church in Croatia and also the world's smallest cathedral, according to signs posted outside. According to one scientist, the little white stone church is also a giant sun dial and was constructed according to mathematical calculations.

Strolling along Riverwalk in Osijek: The promenade along the mighty Drava is never empty. People walk their dogs, couples take romantic strolls, kids ride skateboards, and tourists stretch their legs at all hours of the day and night as they follow the river from Tvra to the winter harbor. Near Tvra, a little bridge leads to the opposite bank and Copacabana, a popular swimming area.

Exploring Pazin Kastel: One of the best-preserved castles in Istria, thanks to renovations, this one is a surprising "must-see" in the Istrian interior. Pazin Kastel is built next to one of the scariest-looking gorges ever, a feature that was conveniently utilized as a dumping ground (literally) for enemies of whoever controlled the castle at the time. What may be Croatia's best ethnographic museum is found inside.