Getting There

By Plane

Croatia Air (www.croatiaairlines.hr) flies routes between Croatia and Europe's major hubs, among them Amsterdam, Berlin, Brussels, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Moscow, Munich, Paris, Prague, Rome, Sarajevo, and Vienna. Zagreb (ZAG) and Dubrovnik (DUB) are Croatia's biggest gateways and Lufthansa is the largest international carrier that serves them. Both Lufthansa and Croatia Air are members of the Star Alliance, which includes United Airlines. At publication time, no U.S. carriers were flying directly into Croatian airports.

Tip: It's wise to book your flight to Croatia on United or a Star Alliance member airline (Austrian, Swiss, SAS, and so on) if only to smooth luggage handling. If your initial carrier is a member, bags will be checked through to your destination, a boon when catching connecting flights. But if you start your trip on a nonmember carrier, you might have to pick up your bag, go through Customs, carry your bags through the airport to the connecting gate, and recheck them with Croatia Air or your connecting airline. It happened to us and we also were hit with an "overweight fee" on our luggage for the second leg of our flight even though we were fine on the first. European weight rules kicked in because we were checking in there. You can avoid that by making sure your luggage is checked through to your destination city in Croatia no matter how many stops you make.

Besides Croatia Air, a number of Europe's discount carriers (Ryanair, Easyjet, and SkyEurope) serve Croatia via smaller European cities such as Venice.

Departure Tips -- In 2003, the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. And e-tickets have made paper tickets nearly obsolete. Passengers with e-tickets can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from their home computers. Online check-in involves logging on to your airline's website, accessing your reservation, and printing out your boarding pass -- and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so! If you're using a kiosk at the airport, bring the credit card with which you booked the ticket, or bring your frequent-flier card. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. If you're checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat, you will be able to do so using most airline kiosks. Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system, but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available. Security checkpoint lines vary in length from country to country and from airport to airport. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time, tell an airline employee; the airline will provide a wheelchair.

Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. If you have metallic body parts, a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security, except for folks escorting children or passengers with disabilities.

Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can't. The rules keep changing, but in general sharp things such as knives are out, nail clippers are okay, and food and beverages must be purchased after you clear security. Liquids are limited to 3-ounce containers that fit in one, 1-quart plastic bag. Keep this bag outside your suitcase to show screeners as you pass through security.

Note: In Croatia, battery-operated devices equipped with working batteries are not allowed in checked luggage, so take out that alarm clock before you check your bag. Bring food in your carry-on rather than check it in, as explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. On Croatia Air and most European airlines travelers are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a "personal item" such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop computer bag. Check size and weight requirements for each of the airlines you book. Limits on carry-on weight and dimensions set by Croatia Air and most European airlines are much lower than limits on U.S. airlines.

Airport screeners may decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. You can purchase luggage locks that allow screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand searching is necessary. Look for Travel Sentry-certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www.brookstone.com). These locks, approved by the TSA, can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. For more information on the locks, visit www.travelsentry.org. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks, your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage.

The TSA has issued a list of restricted items; check its website (www.tsa.gov/public/index.jsp) for details.

By Car

The highways that connect Croatia to its neighbors (Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia, Herzegovina, Serbia, and Montenegro) are good and getting better as miles of new pavement are poured. This is especially true of the span between Ljubljana and Zagreb, a route that takes just 2 hours to complete. The route from Budapest to Zagreb runs across Croatia's northern border and is also popular. It takes about 5 hours to reach Zagreb (362km/225 miles) from the Hungarian capital.

Visitors coming from Italy and Austria must pass through Slovenia to get to Croatia's border, but Slovenia's roads are excellent, too.

Note: If you choose the route through Slovenia, be aware that on July 1, 2009, Slovenia began requiring tariff stickers for cars using Slovenian roads. Weekly stickers for motorcycles are 7.5€, cars 15€. The monthly fee for a motorcycle is 25€ and 30€ for a car. Even if you are just passing through, you'll have to buy the sticker.

In addition, the E.U. countries that abut Croatia (Slovenia, Hungary) anticipate subscribing to the Schengen protocol, under which internal borders among E.U. countries are dissolved. Croatia is in the process of applying for E.U. membership, and once it gains full membership, crossing national lines to and from Croatia should be seamless.

But even if European border checks disappear, travelers always should carry passport, insurance card, and any rental car papers (including the car's registration). This is especially true if you are going through Serbia or Montenegro, countries that are not yet fully in the E.U. membership pipeline.

Car rental: Car rental in Croatia is expensive, and it can be tricky. Even if you use a global agency like Hertz or Avis, it is best to reserve a car by contacting a local agency branch in the city where you plan to rent rather than through the agency's parent company or online.

In our experience, on two occasions, car rental companies at the Zagreb airport had "no record" of our online reservation and we had to rebook on the spot at a higher rate. We also witnessed the "we-have-no-record" scenario played out with a couple from Italy who had prepaid for the car via an Italian travel agency.

It is a good idea to take the "full insurance" package offered with your car rental even though it can add considerable cost to your rental. You will be given a chance to inspect your vehicle with your car rental rep, and you should be certain the rep documents any existing scratches or other damage before you take the keys. Any dings incurred thereafter, not to mention major damage, will be charged to you at full rate. Note: Most cars rented in Croatia are stick shift. Vehicles with automatic transmissions are scarce and you will pay extra if you need this feature.

Warning: In most cases, liability coverage from your domestic auto insurance policy will not cover you on vehicles rented outside the U.S. That is also true of the auto coverage that comes with most major bank cards. Check with your insurance agent and credit card companies to be sure.

By Train

Trains connect all major Croatian cities north of Split, but there is no train service to cities between Split and Dubrovnik in southern Dalmatia.

Croatia does have convenient railway links with Slovenia, Hungary, Italy, Austria, Switzerland, Slovakia, France, Germany, and Bosnia and Herzegovina, but the railway links to and from other European countries can be extremely time-consuming. The train ride from Paris to Zagreb, for example, takes 18-plus hours, while a rail trip from Frankfurt to Split will take almost 24 hours. If you must get to Croatia by rail from another European city, check schedules, fares and details on rail passes at Rail Europe, www.raileurope.com. For trains within Croatia, check Croatia Railways, www.hznet.hr.

By Ferry

There are four ferry lines with regular service from Bari, Ancona, Pescara, and Venice in Italy to major ports in Croatia. Several other lines operate seasonal routes. In most cases, you hop on a cruise ship after 9pm and arrive in Croatia just as the sun is rising. Routes, fares, schedules, and booking information for all ferry lines listed below are available at www.cemar.it. Fares and schedules are subject to frequent change.

Jadrolinija: Croatia's national ferry line has three international routes. Jadrolinija ships travel twice a week between Ancona and Zadar and Ancona and Split in central Dalmatia and once a week between Bari and Dubrovnik. Round-trip deck passage for two adults without a vehicle runs from 230€ for the overnight trip between Bari and Dubrovnik, while the fare on the same route for two in an external cabin with toilet plus a vehicle runs 700€.

Prices are the same for Ancona-Split and slightly less for Ancona-Zadar.

Blue Line International: This ferry line has daily overnight service between Ancona and Split. Round-trip deck accommodations for two without a vehicle run from 275€ while a deluxe cabin for two with a vehicle runs 600€ round trip during the summer. Weekend departures from late July through late August are even higher as a 25% surcharge is added to the bill if you travel Friday to Sunday at that time and a 50% surcharge is added if you travel alone in a double cabin.

In addition to the ferry options above, SNAV operates several "express" routes between Italy and Croatia and it is the only international connection to popular Hvar Island. The SNAV Hvar "Jet" catamaran service departs from Pescara, Italy, and deposits passengers at Hvar's Stari Grad port. The trip takes about 3 1/2 hours, but service is seasonal (mid-June through early Sept). A round-trip between Pescara and Hvar for two costs 366€. Prices and schedule information are available from April through September at www.cemar.it.

Last, Venezia Lines travels between Venice in Italy and such cities as Rovinj, Porec, and Pula on Istria's western coast. Current schedule and fare information is available at the website listed above or at www.venezialines.com from April through September.