Getting Around

By Plane

Croatia Air has a near monopoly on flights that travel among Croatia's seven airports (Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Pula, Zadar, and Brac), and unless one of these locations is your final destination, you'll have to transfer to some other mode of transportation to finish your trip. Domestic flights booked on Croatia Air from outside the country cost nearly twice as much as flights booked at a Croatia Air office in the country unless they are part of a multi-city international ticket.

By Bus

Almost every town in Croatia has a bus station, and the country's network of bus routes makes this an excellent, economical option for travel within Croatia. Express routes on updated highways facilitate travel among major cities. Buses also travel to almost every town and village in the country, though schedules might be inconvenient.

By Boat

Ferries and catamarans are a way of life on Croatia's coast. There is no other way to get to the islands (except Pag and Krk, which are linked to the mainland via bridges). For some, ferries are the transport of choice between mainland cities such as Rijeka and Dubrovnik. Croatia's ferries vary in size and type: Some are huge ships that carry people, cargo, and vehicles. Others are small taxi boats, and still others are speedy catamarans. Jadrolinija, Semmarina, and SNAV are the major operators. In summer, ferry schedules are beefed up to handle increased traffic, but in winter some lines cancel certain runs altogether and reduce the rest of their schedules. When there is a bura, ferries can be sidelined.

By Car

Except for transport around Zagreb and Dubrovnik, driving is far and away the best method for seeing the real Croatia -- even the islands. However, renting a car and paying for fuel can be extremely expensive, with rentals for a subcompact starting at about $50 a day and gas selling at unprecedented high prices.

Croatia's main highways (autocestas) are modern, well-marked, and well maintained. Secondary roads vary in quality and can range from well marked, paved, multi-lane expanses to unmarked, one-lane dirt roads.

Gas stations are readily available near larger cities. They usually are open from 7am to 7pm every day and until 10pm in the summer. Some gas stations in larger cities and on major international routes are open 24 hours. It's a good idea to fill the tank and pick up a Croatia road map that locates gas stations across the country before you start a long trip. These are usually available at the stations themselves. See www.ina.hr, www.hak.hr, and www.omvistrabenz.hr for details.

If you plan to rent a car during July and August, it is critical that you reserve a vehicle before you arrive at the rental agency. If you have car trouble on the road, call the rental agency or the Croatian Automobile Club at tel. 987; or check the auto club's website at www.hak.hr. Croatia road maps are available at any tourism office, gas station, or supermarket, and they are fine for charting the main roads. However, sometimes maps are moot because signage off the main roads is not the best.

Parking in Zagreb and other population centers can be difficult. It is easier to find a space in smaller towns, but in all cases you'll pay. Croatia allows payment for parking via cellphone. The cellphone owner loads money on account, calls a pre-set number, indicates the city where the car is parked and the number of minutes desired, and the amount is deducted from the owner's account. The service calls the driver's cellphone 5 minutes before the parking time is up to give him/her the opportunity to buy more time. If you don't have a local cellphone, most parking lots have machines that take coins or they employ attendants to take the fees.

Car Rentals -- There are numerous car rental companies in Croatia, and almost all have offices at the airports and major cities. Budget (tel. 800/472-3325: www.budget.com) has outlets at the Split, Dubrovnik, Pula, and Zagreb airports, and in other major population centers. Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131: www.hertz.com) has branches at all of Croatia's airports, including Pula, Rijeka, and Zadar, as well as rental outlets on Hvar and Mali Losinj. Uni rent (tel. 021/317-297: www.uni-rent.net) is a local independent vendor that has an office in Split near the Hotel Marjan. All offer a broad spectrum of auto choices, ranging from small economy models such as the Opel Corsa to luxury rides like the Volvo S80 to SUV 4*4s. To rent a car in Croatia, you must be 21 years old, have a valid driver's license and proof of insurance. Note: Almost all cars rented in Croatia have manual transmissions. If you need an automatic, reserve well in advance and be prepared to pay a premium for it.

By Train

Croatian Railways (www.hznet.hr) is an efficient way to travel between Zagreb and the northern and inland parts of the country. There is also train service to Rijeka and Pula in Istria and south to Split. However, the trains do not run along the coast south of Split. Croatian trains are not part of the Eurail system, and international travel usually requires train changes because the rail gauge in Croatia is different from that used on Eurail track.