Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

In May 2009, Forbes magazine named Croatia the 20th cleanest country in the world and the cleanest overall in eastern Europe and central Asia. That determination was made using an instrument called the Environmental Performance Index (EPI). The EPI was developed by Columbia and Yale Universities and it measures the effects of pollution on human health, ecosystem vitality, health of fisheries, the amount of greenhouse gas released into the air, and how well the country preserves its diversity of plants and animals. Those factors probably aren't high on anyone's list of considerations when planning a vacation, but the steps Croatia takes to keep its air and water clean and its flora and fauna healthy are remarkable and should be noted.

Bottle Collection

In 2006, Croatia's Ministry for Environmental Protection introduced a policy that has eliminated virtually 100% of glass and plastic bottle litter in the country. Under the plan, people can bring every glass or plastic beverage bottle to any market larger than 200 sq. m (2,153 sq. ft.) and they'll receive 5 lipa, or half a kuna (approximately 6kn to the U.S. dollar) for each bottle returned even if they purchased the drink at some other store.

We saw the system in action at a Kaufland supermarket in Bjelovar. People place bottles one at a time on a conveyer belt in the store's lobby. As the belt moves under an infrared light each bottle's bar code is scanned and the number of bottles turned in is tallied. A receipt with the amount earned is then issued to the customer. That can be exchanged for cash or used against the grocery bill.

We witnessed people lined up out the door with plastic garbage bags full of bottles to return. In fact, that line was longer than any of the store's cashier lines. We saw the same scenario repeated over and over in different stores on different days.

The success of the program has been dramatic. Croatia estimates that more than two billion bottles have been collected since the return policy went into effect and that's virtually every bottle sold in the country. We didn't see a single glass or plastic bottle marring the landscape anywhere in Croatia -- not on the beach, in the rivers, on the streets. Bonus: The government estimates that 1,300 jobs have been created in the recycling industry thanks to the program.

Blue Flag Beaches

The Blue Flag is an exclusive eco-award given to beaches and marinas that meet strict criteria for both water quality and environmental management. It was introduced in 1987 and sets common standards of good management across Europe. Croatia prides itself on the number and quality of its Blue Flag beaches and marinas, which numbered 114 in 2009.

To earn a Blue Flag, a facility has to pass several tests. Water quality is sampled 20 times in summer and must reach the higher of two standards set in the organization's Bathing Water Directive. Beach management criteria include beach cleanliness, wheelchair access, dog control, first aid, safety, and environmental information. Marina management criteria includes provisions for information about the environment, adequate containers for trash and special waste, clean toilets and washing facilities, and safety equipment. Beaches and marinas are monitored both before and during the award year to ensure that all criteria are being fulfilled and that high standards are being maintained. For more information go to www.blueflag.org.

Smoking Ban

In May 2009, Croatia issued a total smoking ban in all public places, including cafes, restaurants, bars, and clubs. The government backpedaled on the directive 4 months later after small business owners complained they were being ruined en masse. The ban is now optional for smaller establishments and others can accommodate smokers as long as they provide a private, separately ventilated space for them. But in a country where almost everyone smoked just 5 years ago, this is progress.

Birds & Bees

Croatia fiercely protects its natural resources and wildlife. It maintains eight national parks, and countless arboretums, botanical gardens, wetlands, and animal habitats. Bird-watchers in Croatia delight in multiple opportunities to observe a variety of feathered phenoms. Caput Insulae Ecology Center on the island of Cres long has been a haven and educational center devoted to protecting the rare griffon vulture. The center also sponsors volunteer trips to support its efforts.

The Lonjsko Polje Nature Park in north central Croatia is home to numerous wetlands and bird sanctuaries. The village of Cigoc and villages in the surrounding area not only comprise habitats for hundreds of species of insects, fish, frogs, and birds, including Cigoc's famous storks, these historic settlements also protect collections of ethnographic artifacts, including chimney-free houses made of centuries-old timbers.

The Kopacki Rit Nature Reserve in Slavonia on Croatia's eastern border is the country's most fascinating wetland. Besides huge bird populations, the area is beginning to attract cyclists, hikers, and wine lovers thanks to redevelopment of bike trails, removal of land mines, and a rebirth of the region's vast vineyards.

The Adriatic Dolphin Project with research centers on the islands of Losinj and Vis is working to study and protect the population ecology, genetics, acoustics, and habitats of bottlenose dolphins and other Cetacean species of the Adriatic. This is an E.U. PHARE project, and it includes a marine education center on Losinj with permanent and temporary exhibits, interactive multimedia presentations, lectures, and education programs for visitors. Go to www.blue-world.org for more information.

Eco-Conscious Hotels

As we crisscrossed Croatia in the summer of 2009, we found many hotels taking steps to protect the environment.

The Radisson BLU in Dubrovnik was built with a green roof and an HVAC system that is cooled by the ocean. The Novi in Novi Vinodolski also has a green roof, uses electric trams to move people around its vast property, and it recycles.

The Kempinski Adriatic uses nothing but stored rainwater to keep the only 18-hole golf course in Croatia green. The hotel also grows its own culinary herbs for use in its restaurants. Almost all hotels in Croatia have installed smart rooms with on-demand electricity that works only if a guest inserts his or her key card in a central slot.

Wind Farms

From southern Dalmatia to Pag Island to Slavonia you'll see windmills dotting the horizon. Croatia is embracing wind power to produce energy. Croatians are frugal and conserving fuel, energy, and water is second nature for them.

The sustainable travel industry in Croatia is in its infancy, but conservation and environmental management are not. Croatia always has taken care of its land, water, and air, and all indications are that it will continue to do so.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Croatia listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.
• In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making vacations sustainable.
• In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section and profiles of the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.
• In Australia, the national body that sets guidelines and standards for eco-tourism is Ecotourism Australia (www.ecotourism.org.au). The Green Directory (www.thegreendirectory.com.au), Green Pages (www.thegreenpages.com.au), and Eco Directory (www.ecodirectory.com.au) offer sustainable travel tips and directories of green businesses.
• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.
• Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodations ratings. The Hotel Association of Canada (www.hacgreenhotels.com) has a Green Key Eco-Rating Program, which audits the environmental performance of Canadian hotels, motels, and resorts.
• Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.com) lists sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also visit www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.
• For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).
• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.