Planning a trip to Cuba

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Homosexuality is not illegal in Cuba, but in general, Cuba has a poor record on gay and lesbian rights, and while the situation has improved somewhat, there are still high levels of homophobia and broad societal rejection of gays and lesbians. For decades following the Revolution, gays and lesbians were closeted and persecuted. (Read Reinaldo Arenas' horrifying account in Before Night Falls.) The harsh measures they faced included forced labor and prison. The blockbuster movie Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate) certainly brought the issue to the forefront, yet little has changed in the prevailing views of this macho society. However, Fidel Castro has now taken responsibility for the way homosexuals were treated in the 1960s and 1970s. There is only one openly accepted gay and lesbian establishment in Cuba (in Santa Clara), and few of the established gay and lesbian tour operators run trips to the island. However, Out Adventures (www.out-adventures.com), based in Canada and working with Intrepid travel, offers a "Comfort Cuba" tour.

Santa Clara is perhaps the most openly gay city in Cuba and there is an annual gay and transvestite carnival in the middle of May. In Havana, a transvestite entertains weekly at Cafe TV. Raúl Castro's daughter, Mariela Castro, heads the National Center for Sex Education and champions homosexual, bisexual, and transgender rights. In May 2008, the state-television network transmitted Brokeback Mountain on TV, the first time a gay film had been broadcast in Cuba. Cuba also held an anti-homophobia day for the fourth time in May 2010, promoted by Mariela Castro. The legalization of same-sex marriage has also been talked about, but so far no progress has been made. In addition, sex change operations were legalized in 2008, and in 2010, Cuba's first transsexual appeared in a documentary on the island publicly detailing her transition for the first time.

While travelers are generally not hassled in Cuba and given some leeway in terms of social mores, same-sex signs of physical affection are rare and frowned upon across the country. Gay and lesbian couples and singles should take the prevailing social climate into account when traveling in Cuba.

The documentary film, Gay Cuba, by Sonja de Vries (Frameline Films; www.frameline.org), is an honest look at the treatment of gays and lesbians in modern Cuba.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses.

Visitor Information

Tourism is Cuba's number-one source of hard currency, and the government is actively involved in promoting tourism internationally. As a result, there's a network of tourism boards and agencies in major cities around the world; some are better than others. Some offices are run by the Ministry of Tourism, others by one of the major state-run agencies like Cubanacán, Havanatur, or Cubatur. No matter the bureau, the focus is almost entirely on organized tours, but they can give you some basic information. Agencies to contact include Cuba Tourist Board Canada, 1200 Bay St., Suite 305, Toronto M5R 2A5 (tel. 416/362-0700; www.gocuba.ca), or 2075, rue Université, Bureau 460, Montreal H3A 2L1 (tel. 514/875-8004); Cuba Tourist Board Great Britain, 154 Shaftesbury Ave., 1st Floor, London WC2H 8HL (tel. 0207/240-6655; www.travel2cuba.co.uk); and, in the United States, the Cuban Interests Section (tel. 202/797-8518; http://embacu.cubaminrex.cu/sicw).

A host of other information is available online. The Latin America Network Information Center (http://lanic.utexas.edu/la/cb/cuba) is the best one-stop shop for helpful links to a wide range of travel and general information sites.

The Cuban government sponsors a number of websites, including Cuba Travel (www.cubatravel.cu), CubaSi (www.cubasi.cu), Auténtica Cuba (http://autenticacuba.com/uk) and Directorio Turístico de Cuba (www.dtcuba.com), the most useful. All provide a fair amount of travel-related information and links. State-run tourism agency websites -- including Cubanacán (www.cubanacan.cu) and Cubatur (www.cubatur.cu) -- are also good places to check for hotels, transportation, and package deals.

Infotur (www.infotur.cu), based in Cuba, also provides fairly detailed information on the country's provinces. Two interesting and informative sites are Cuba Absolutely (www.cubaabsolutely.com) and Havana Journal (www.havanajournal.com).

There are several interesting Cuba-related blogs, which offer an interesting perspective on life in Cuba, including www.desdecuba.com/generationy, www.alongthemalecon.blogspot.com, www.sinevasionen.wordpress.com, and www.translatingcuba.com.

When to Go

The tourist high season runs from December through March, coinciding with the winter months in most northern countries. It also coincides with Cuba's dry season. Throughout this season, and especially around the Christmas and Easter holidays, the beaches and resorts are relatively full, prices are somewhat higher, and it may be harder to find an available rental car or room. There is also a mini high season in July and August. Overbooking -- a widespread problem in the Cuban tourism industry -- is much more of a problem during the high season. During the low season, you can find discounts. Moreover, resorts and attractions are much less crowded. However, temperatures are somewhat higher throughout the low season, and periods of extended rainfall are not uncommon.

Climate

Cuba has two distinct seasons, rainy (May-Oct) and dry (Nov-Apr). The dry season is characterized by consistently sunny and temperate weather, with daytime temperatures averaging between 75° and 80°F (24°-27°C). However, temperature swings are greater during this period, and it can actually get somewhat chilly when cold fronts -- or "northers" -- creep down the eastern seaboard of the United States, particularly in the months of January and February. In contrast, the rainy season is overall a slightly warmer period in Cuba, with less dramatic same-day temperature swings. There's a small dry spell most years during August, which is also the hottest and most humid month to visit Cuba. The entire Caribbean basin is affected by an annual hurricane season (June-Nov), with September and October having the highest number of hurricanes.

Tips for Families

Cuba is an excellent destination for families, particularly if you want an all-inclusive beach vacation with a broad range of tours, activities, and entertainment options. Toward this end, Varadero would probably be your top choice, with a wealth of watersports activities and land-based adventures, including nearby caves to explore. The beach destinations of Cayo Coco, Cayo Guillermo, and Guardalavaca are also worth considering. If you do go the all-inclusive route, be sure the resort you choose has a well-run children's program, with a full plate of activities.

If your children are old enough, they should enjoy the colonial wonders of La Habana Vieja (Old Havana), including its forts and castles. Hotels and attractions throughout Cuba often give discounts for children under 12 years old, as does the tourist bus service, Víazul.

However, hotels with regular, dependable babysitting service are few and far between. If you'll need babysitting service, make sure your hotel provides it before you leave home.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Although Cuba is home to beautiful beaches, forests, mountains, mangroves, and wetlands, the country is somewhat unsustainable. Cuba has suffered severe deforestation since the colonial era, and its increasing industrialization (using Soviet-era technology) polluted the environment. In the 1990s, however, the government established laws to protect the environment. Since then, organic farms have flourished, and the recent land reform that gives unused fertile land to private farmers is encouraging news. However, Cuba is still essentially a third world country and environmentally-friendly ventures, like recycling and researching alternative forms of energy, are not a visible priority in contemporary Cuba.

That said, Cuba has an excellent network of nationally protected natural areas, such as the Parque Nacional de Humboldt and the Viñales Valley. While traveling in these preserved areas, respect the environment by not dumping garbage, sticking to trails, and employing local guides; also, tip local guides (who are all employed by the state and earn no more than CUC$15-CUC$20 per month).

Cuba's only real ecotourism project is at Las Terrazas. It was a planned community project that has preserved local flora and fauna and forests and the population is all involved in exploiting its ecotourism potential.

Cuba is blessed with gorgeous beaches, and fortunately most beach areas are not overdeveloped -- even though there are dozens of large all-inclusive resorts that line many of Cuba's beaches. The seas surrounding Cuba are pristine, and careful diving and fishing operations are practiced, which helps preserve sealife. However, stone causeways run across miles of sea, connecting remote islands to the mainland, and thus bringing more visitors and in turn more pollution to the once isolated areas.

Although tourism is encouraged, the tourism industry props up a system of government that rules over a people who are not free. Visitors to Cuba can support the local economy by staying with local people through the system of casas particulares and eating at paladares. These bed and breakfasts and private restaurants support a large network of local people. Locals sell fruits and vegetables at agromercados throughout Cuba -- and now from kiosks and their own homes.

Some state hotels -- the Club Amigo chain in particular -- now run partly on solar panels, and all houses, offices, and hotels in Cuba now use energy-saving light bulbs in a switch that was part of a nationally-enforced campaign a few years ago. However, most of the all-inclusive hotels serve imported food and pay their Cuban employees a mere CUC$10-CUC$15 a month. Do tip your maids, waiters, and tour guides (but not tour desk operatives who are taking their cut from the published prices of tours).

General Resources for Responsible Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

Tips on Accommodations

Cuba's accommodations for tourists range from top-class historic hotels to budget, basic uniform blocks in the cities. These are complemented by casas particulares, a system of excellent value Cuban guesthouses where Cubans can rent out a few of their rooms to guests. At beach resorts, hotels range from top-class luxury to above-basic facilities at slightly inflated prices, with a few very good exceptions at the more reasonable/lower end of the market. In most areas, casas particulares are not permitted right on the beach, due to government restrictions. In rural areas, there is a mix of high-end to moderately priced attractive accommodations as well as some unattractive government hotels.

Hotels are either owned or run by the Cuban state or are run as joint ventures with foreign companies. There are no 100% foreign-owned hotels in Cuba.

Most hotel options in Cuba have been divvied up among a few large state-run chains: Islazul (www.islazul.cu), Gaviota (www.gaviota-grupo.com), Cubanacán (www.hotelescubanacan.com), Gran Caribe (www.gran-caribe.com), and Habaguanex (www.habaguanexhotels.com). These chains generally stake out distinct territories. Habaguanex has near monopoly control over the hotel scene in La Habana Vieja in Havana. Their properties tend to be midrange to upper end, and most are in beautifully restored colonial buildings. Gaviota, Cubanacán, and Gran Caribe divvy up the remainder of the midrange to upper-end hotels around the country. Islazul runs the most economical hotels, although it has begun refurbishing some real gems in the colonial heart of some of Cuba's more interesting cities. Cubanacán is also upgrading properties with its Hoteles Encanto brand.

These large state-run companies have signed management contracts with international hotel chains, usually resulting in improved service and hospitality. While the international Barceló (www.barcelo.com), NH Hoteles (www.nh-hotels.com), Iberostar (www.iberostar.com), Accor (www.accor.com), and Occidental (www.occidental-hoteles.com) chains run a few hotels each, predominantly in Havana and Varadero, the major player is the Spanish Sol Meliá chain (www.solmeliacuba.com), which manages 24 midrange to high-end properties in Cuba.

Be prepared for some pitfalls when booking directly through hotel websites in Cuba. Many of the state-run chains -- Gaviota, Habaguanex, and Cubanacán -- have primitive or poorly maintained websites, and their online booking mechanisms can be cumbersome and inconsistent. You'll definitely do better with the larger international chains like Sol Meliá (www.solmeliacuba.com), Occidental (www.occidentalhotels.com), and Barceló (www.barcelo.com).

There are consistently competitive live availability deals offered on www.cubahotelreservation.com, and hotels honor these reservations with good rooms.

Casas Particulares

Aside from official hotels and resorts, the other principal lodging option in Cuba is a casa particular, or private house. To meet demand and inject just a bit of economic relief (and nascent capitalism) into the system, the government has authorized certain households to rent out a maximum of two rooms. Note: In September 2010, the government announced plans that would allow casa owners to rent out their entire home as an independent rental property, and open a paladar in addition to running a casa. By November 2010, new punitive tax codes for these changes had been published but new licenses had not been issued. An official casa particular should display a small plaque or sticker declaring it to be a government sanctioned casa. The symbol is a blue capital "H" set on its side, with slightly bent horizontal lines, and the top horizontal line longer than the bottom one. (It also looks like an anchor.) It should also say Arrendador Divisa. This means the owner of the house is allowed to rent rooms for divisa (hard currency). Houses with red symbols can only rent to Cubans for moneda nacional.

Casas charge from CUC$15 to CUC$25 in the low season and CUC$20 to CUC$35 in the high season. The most expensive rooms are in houses in Vedado and Miramar in Havana. In addition to the season, price variations depend on the number of guests, the length of stay, your status (students often receive discounts), the location of the house in the country (for example, the more remote or less touristy the area, the cheaper it could be), and the amount of tax that owners pay on the room (this is dictated by the number of rooms they rent, the square meterage of their house that tourists use, and the location of their house). Those with impressive colonial homes often charge more.

During low season, do negotiate for a lower nightly rate and always try to negotiate a lower rate for a long stay. Note that it is very difficult to get a discount for single travelers. Pairs/couples and families with children under 18 who share the same room enjoy the most value.

On arrival, casa owners must ask for your passport and enter the information into a registration book that must be taken to the immigration office within 24 hours of your arrival. You will be asked to sign next to your information in this book. If you are not asked to sign or are not asked for your passport, your casa may not be legal. Casas particulares can have no more than two rooms for rent. Each room can only hold up to three adults and children under 18. The owners must pay a tax of between CUC$100 and CUC$250 per room per month, plus the now obligatory monthly gastronomic tax. At the end of the year, a further tax of between 10% and 30% is paid on the total annual earnings.

Most houses are quite modest -- you are basically living with a Cuban family. Rooms for rent will either have their own private bathroom or a bathroom shared with other tourists, not with the family. Your room will most likely have air-conditioning. If there is no air-conditioning, you should pay less. The minimum facilities you will receive are clean sheets, towels, and toilet paper, probably a bedside lamp, a wardrobe closet, and a sideboard. Some casas now have security boxes, TVs, and stocked fridges. Most houses will provide locked rooms with a key. You may or may not be given the keys to the house depending on the rules of the owners. Some casas have independent entrances, which appeal to some travelers. Most colonial houses that often make the most attractive casas do not have en suite bathrooms due to the configuration of the houses.

Most casas particulares serve huge, varied, and tasty meals (breakfasts and dinners) at very reasonable prices, especially since the optional gastronomic tax of CUC$30 a month has become obligatory. The biggest advantage of staying in a casa is that it is a great way to meet and interact with Cubans, something you cannot really do at "official" hotels and resorts. Most owners will also bend over backwards to assist you with your plans -- whether that means answering your questions, arranging transport, or making phone calls for you.

If you have a reservation for your casa, your hosts should honor it. Similarly, if you make a reservation, you must turn up; losing CUC$25 on a no- show is a small fortune to a Cuban. Please respect this system because those who don't are forcing some Cubans not to respect reservations. If you just turn up without a reservation and the house is full, the owner will farm you out to a friend or relative at a nearby house. You are not under any obligation to take these places, but they could save you a lot of hassle -- just be prepared to pay a commission. Make sure they are legal houses, though. Even with a reservation, it is wise to make a follow-up confirmation by e-mail or by phone. Casa owners are happy to phone ahead to your next casa to tell the future host you are on your way.

Be aware that if you show up at a casa particular on the recommendation of a taxi driver or jinetero, either of them will expect a commission of between CUC$1 and CUC$5, which invariably is added onto the bill at your casa particular.

Warning:  Be wary of jineteros (hustlers), who may try to dupe you into staying in a casa that they recommend so that they earn a commission. Sometimes jineteros will just tell you that the casa you have a reservation in is full; others will take you to the door, put the key in and pretend it's locked, saying that the owner is away; others will tell you the owner of the casa you have a reservation in has moved, died, or gone abroad and they can take you to a similar house nearby (from which they'll receive a commission). In this desperate economic climate, jineteros will stop at nothing until they collect a commission. Be on guard, and do not be deterred by these scams. If you have a reservation, be confident and insistent that you stay at the casa particular where you have a room reserved.

Frommer's has received reports of the occasional theft from casas particulares. This is an extremely rare occurrence, since renting rooms to tourists is the main source of hard currency for Cubans. Putting this at risk is, quite frankly, idiotic in Cuba's economic climate.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

All travelers to Cuba must possess a valid passport, a return ticket, travel insurance policy with medical coverage, and a visa or tourist visa. Unlicensed U.S. citizens may be allowed a stay of up to 90 days upon entry. British citizens are granted 30 days upon entry. This can be extended for another 30 days within Cuba. Canadian citizens are granted a visa for 90 days. This can be extended for 90 days only.

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Tourist visas are generally issued by the ticketing airline or travel agent. (If you book a flight with Air Canada, the visa is included in the price.) In a worst-case scenario, the visa can usually be bought on the spot upon clearing Customs.

For U.S. and Canadian citizens, tourist visas cost around US$23/C$23, depending upon the issuing agent, and are good for up to 90 days although Customs agents will sometimes issue them for just 30 days, or until the date of your return flight, unless you request otherwise. They can be extended for another 30 days (90 days for Canadians) once you arrive in Cuba for an additional minimum CUC$25 fee. (The fee is related to your length of stay.) In order to extend your tourist visa, you must personally go to any immigration office in the country. An additional 90-day extension for Canadians can be granted once at any immigration office for a cost of approximately CUC$25. For further information in Canada, contact the Cuban Embassy at www.embacubacanada.net, the Cuban consulate in Toronto at cubacon1@on.aibn.com, or the Cuba tourist board in Canada at www.gocuba.ca.

In the U.K., if you buy a ticket for an independent flight, you will need to purchase a separate tourist visa. Some travel companies are charging exorbitant costs for this (up to £50). While the visa is also available from the Cuban Embassy in London for £15 plus postage (www.cubaldn.com), the cheapest, most efficient and reliable place to get a visa is directly from www.visacuba.co.uk. U.K. citizens are granted entry for 30 days. This can be extended once at any immigration office for an additional 30 days for CUC$25. It is then possible to request another 30 days but this must be referred to the provincial immigration office and there is no guarantee of success.

Note that when seeking a tourist visa extension, you need to purchase bank stamps (sellos para la visa) for the value of the extension you need before going to the immigration office. To avoid making unnecessary journeys, ask your hotel or casa particular to call the local immigration office and ask the price of the extension before heading to a branch of the Banco de Crédito y Comercio, the only bank authorized to sell the stamps.

In the event you need a specific work visa, or if your travel agent or airline will not provide you with the tourist visa, you should contact the Cuban consulate or embassy in your home country.

For Residents of the United States -- While it is not illegal for U.S. citizens to travel to Cuba, most are prohibited from spending any money in Cuba. This, in effect, is the "travel ban." The complicated prohibition, which allows for various exceptions, is governed by the U.S. Treasury Department and the Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC). For more information, visit www.treas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac/programs/cuba/cuba.pdf.

The Treasury Department grants certain licenses. Some of these licenses are implicit, such as those for full-time journalists and government workers on official business. Other licenses must be applied for on a case-by-case basis with the U.S. Treasury Department. Since September 2009, Cuban Americans can now visit close relatives in Cuba for as long as they and want as often as they want, subject to per diem payment restrictions (http://aoprals.state.gov), currently US$179 per day for stays in Havana. See the U.S. Treasury Department rules for definition of close relative.

Travel arrangements for licensed travelers can be made by an authorized Travel Service Provider (TSP), and travel can be made directly from U.S. gateway cities on regular charter flights. There are hundreds of authorized TSPs. A couple of the most dependable are ABC Charters (tel. 305/263-6829; www.abc-charters.com) and the helpful Tico Travel (tel. 800/493-8426 in the U.S. or Canada, or 954/493-8426; www.destinationcuba.com). If you are unsure about the legality of any other service provider, visit www.treas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac/programs/cuba/cuba_tsp.pdf.

Be careful about signing on for a "fully hosted" trip. According to the regulations, a U.S. citizen can travel to Cuba without violating the Treasury ban provided he or she does not pay for any goods or services, including food and lodging, or provide any services to Cuba or a Cuban national while in the country. This provision had been widely used by U.S. citizens to buy packages from Canadian, Mexican, or Bahamian tour agencies. However, the Treasury Department has caught on to this tactic and has declared any "fully hosted" trip that is clearly for pleasure or tourism is in violation of the regulations.

Failure to comply with Department of Treasury regulations may result in civil penalties and criminal prosecution upon return to the United States. For more information, contact the Office of Foreign Assets Control, U.S. Department of the Treasury, 1500 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Treasury Annex, Washington, DC 20220 (tel. 202/622-2000; www.treas.gov/ofac).

As far as Cuba is concerned, U.S. travelers are welcomed with open arms. In fact, as an aid to those seeking to circumvent the Treasury ban, Cuban immigration does not actually stamp U.S. passports, or any for that matter (but you should ask the officer to be sure) -- instead, officers stamp the tourist visa. For current information on Cuban entry and Customs requirements, you can contact the Cuban Interests Section (tel. 202/797-8518).

Visitors from Australia should contact the Consulate General in Australia (tel. 02/9698-9797; http://embacuba.cubaminrex.cu/Default.aspx?tabid=349).

Visitors from New Zealand should contact the Cuban Embassy in Wellington, New Zealand (tel. 04/472-3748; http://embacuba.cubaminrex.cu/Default.aspx?tabid=5903).

Unlicensed Travel -- It is estimated that as many as 200,000 U.S. citizens travel to Cuba each year without a Treasury Department license. The vast majority of travelers use third-country gateway cities like Toronto, Montreal, Cancún, Mexico City, Nassau, George Town on Grand Cayman, or Kingston in Jamaica, and are never questioned or bothered by U.S. authorities upon return.

What to Do If You Get Busted -- Officially, U.S. citizens who violate the ban face up to 10 years in prison, $250,000 in criminal fines, and $65,000 in civil fines, but according to the Treasury, penalties range from $3,000 to $7,500. Just 21 people were penalized in 2006. If you are stopped upon returning from an unlicensed trip to Cuba and directly asked by the Customs and Immigration agents, you should give as little information as possible. United States citizens cannot be compelled to provide self-incriminating information. Furthermore, you cannot be denied reentry into the U.S. for traveling to Cuba. You will likely face a long and uncomfortable search and questioning session, and be sent on your way. This will probably be followed by the receipt of a pre-penalty notice from the OFAC. The letter will request specific information to prove or disprove your alleged travel to Cuba, and to threaten the various fines and penalties. At this point, you should contact the Center for Constitutional Rights (tel. 212/614-6470; http://ccrjustice.org), which runs the Cuba Travel Project and works in conjunction with the National Lawyers Guild (www.nlg.org/cuba) to provide legal assistance to U.S. citizens facing prosecution for traveling to Cuba. Typically, after the initial pre-penalty letter, the OFAC offers to settle the case for a reduced fine in the neighborhood of $1,500 to $2,500. Many travelers have opted to go this route. A very, very small number of cases have ever fully gone to trial.

Some operators and guidebooks recommend lying if asked whether or not you were in Cuba. If you lie, you then place yourself at risk for perjury charges, which in the end are easier for the United States government to prosecute and are potentially more serious. I recommend you say little or nothing about your travel to Cuba, but I don't recommend that you lie. Remember, under U.S. law you have the right to refuse to incriminate yourself.

For Cuban Nationals -- The Cuban government doesn't recognize dual nationality of travelers from other countries who are Cuban-born or are the children of Cuban parents, particularly those who chose exile in the United States. The Cuban government requires some individuals whom it considers to be Cuban to enter and depart Cuba using a Cuban passport. Using a Cuban passport for this purpose does not jeopardize one's foreign citizenship; however, you will probably have to use your home country's passport to exit and enter that country. Other Cuban nationals and exiles just need a visa, but acquiring this visa is more complicated than acquiring the simple tourist visa used by most other travelers.

If you are Cuban-born or the child of Cuban-born parents, you should check with the Cuban embassy or consulate in your country of residence, as well as your local immigration authorities. In Canada, contact the Cuban Embassy, 388 Main St., Ottawa, Ontario, K1S 1E3 (tel. 613/563-0141; www.embacubacanada.net); there are also consulates in Montreal and Toronto. In the U.K., contact the Cuban Embassy, 167 High Holborn, London, WC1 6PA (tel. 0207/240-2488; www.cubaldn.com). In the U.S., contact the Cuban Interests Section, 2630 16th St. NW, Washington, DC 20009 (tel. 202/797-8518).

Customs

What You Can Bring into Cuba -- You may bring in all manner of personal effects, including video and still cameras, personal electronic devices, jewelry, and sports equipment. In addition, visitors may bring in up to two bottles of liquor, a carton of cigarettes, and up to 10 kilograms of medications, provided they are in the original packaging. You may now import personal laptops, flash sticks, MP3 players, DVD players, film cameras, and sports equipment, as well as walkie talkies, satellite equipment, and GPS mechanisms. By law you may only import up to CUC$1,000 worth of any merchandise, and there is a 100% duty on all but the first CUC$50 worth. In practice, most visitors can freely bring in reasonable quantities of basic goods, like dried foods, vitamins, pharmaceuticals, and household supplies, without them being taxed or confiscated.

Note: You may bring unlimited amounts of cash, but you must declare quantities in excess of US$5,000, as you may have trouble exporting large quantities of cash, if discovered upon departure. For current and more detailed information, check out www.aduana.co.cu.

What You Can Take Home from Cuba -- Travelers may export up to 50 cigars with no questions asked. Larger quantities can be exported, provided you show proof that they were bought in official Habanos S.A. outlets. There are restrictions on certain works of art, books, publications, and coins. Consult www.aduana.co.cu for further information. Travelers are officially limited to bringing home two bottles of rum or other spirits, although this limit is rarely enforced. Still, if the Customs officials deem your purchases to be of a commercial nature, you could face fines or confiscation.

To export works of art, you will need a permit from the Registro Nacional de Bienes Culturales (National Register of Cultural Heritage), Calle 17 no. 1009 between Calles 10 and 12, Vedado (tel. 7/831-3362). Theoretically, any reputable gallery or shop will provide you with this permit along with your purchase. Those buying artwork bought at the new artesanía market in Havana can purchase the permit for CUC$2 at a kiosk in the building.

Note: There's a CUC$25 departure tax. You must pay this in cash, so be sure to have it on hand.

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov). Note: U.S. travelers bringing back Cuban-made goods will be considered in violation of the Treasury embargo and their goods will be confiscated. It is also illegal for U.S. citizens to import Cuban products even if they never stepped foot on the island. It does no good to try to convince the Customs agent confiscating your stogies that you bought them in a cigar shop in Canada or Mexico or Costa Rica.

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Avenue, Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Since May 2010, all visitors to Cuba must carry proof of medical insurance in order to enter the country. You must have all the vaccines recommended for international travel (tetanus, polio, diptheria, hepatitis A, and cholera). Vaccinations for yellow fever and cholera are not required unless you are arriving from a country where they are prevalent.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Area codes around the country range from one to two digits. See "Staying Connected," p. ###, for dialing instructions within area codes, from one area code to another, and from Havana to another area code.

Business Hours -- There are no hard-and-fast rules, but most businesses and banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. Some businesses and banks close for an hour for lunch. Shops and department stores, especially those that cater to tourists, tend to have slightly more extended hours, and are usually open on Saturday and Sunday.

Drinking Laws -- Cuba has no firm or clear liquor laws. Beer, wine, and liquor are served at most restaurants and are available at most gift shops and hard-currency stores. Drinking and driving is against the law.

Electricity -- You will find a mix of electrical currents and plug types used in Cuba. Around 90% of the hotels and casas particulares use a 110-volt current with standard U.S.-style two- or three-prong outlets. However, some outlets are rated 220 volts, particularly in hotels that cater to European clientele. These are usually marked and sometimes accept only two-prong round plugs. For all intents and purposes, you should have personal appliances rated for 110-volt current, with U.S.-style prongs, or the appropriate converters. It is also essential to carry a three-to-two-prong adapter for any appliance you have that has a three-prong plug.

Embassies & Consulates -- All major consulates and embassies are in Havana. Canada also has other locations.

The embassy of Canada is at Calle 30 no. 518, at the corner of Avenida 7, Miramar (tel. 7/204-2516; fax 7/204-2044; http://havana.gc.ca). The Consulate of Canada is at Hotel Atlántico, Suite 1, Guardalavaca (tel. 24/430-320; fax 24/430-321; honcongvaca@canada.com); and at Calle 13, corner of Avenida 1 and Camino del Mar, Varadero (tel. 45/61-2078; fax 45/66-7395; honconvdero@canada.com).

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at Calle 34 no. 702, between Avenida 7 and 17, Miramar (tel. 7/214-2200; fax 7/214-2268; http://ukincuba.fco.gov.uk).

Though neither an embassy nor a consulate, the United States Interests Section, Calle Calzada between Calles L and M, Vedado (tel. 7/833-3551; http://havana.usint.gov/), is the official U.S. government representation on the island. There is no Australian embassy in Cuba. The Canadian embassy will officially assist.

Emergencies -- In most cases, you will want to dial tel. 106 for any emergency. This is the number for the police. Alternately, you can dial tel. 104 for an ambulance and tel. 105 for the fire department. At none of these numbers can you assume you will find an English-speaking person. For legal emergencies, contact your diplomatic representation. All U.S. citizens can find assistance at the U.S. Interests Section, with no questions asked about licenses.

Etiquette & Customs -- Cubans are friendly, open, and physically expressive people. They strike up conversations easily and seldom use the formal terms of address in Spanish. However, be aware that as a foreigner, many Cubans who start a conversation with you in the street are hoping in some way to get some economic gain out of the relationship. Jineterismo, or jockeying, is a way of life in Cuba. This may involve anything from offers to take you to a specific restaurant or hotel (for a commission) to direct appeals for money or goods.

Dress is generally very informal, in large part due to the tough economic times faced by the broad population. Suits are sometimes worn in business and governmental meetings, although a simple, light, short-sleeved cotton shirt with a tie, or a guayabera, is more common. The guayabera is a loose-fitting shirt with two or four outer pockets on the front and usually a few vertical bands of pleats or embroidery. The guayabera is worn untucked, and is quite acceptable at even the most formal of occasions.

Perhaps the greatest etiquette concern is about what you say. Open criticism of the government or of Fidel or Raúl Castro is a major taboo. Don't do it -- especially in open public places. The police, community revolutionary brigades, and reprisals for vocal dissent are an ongoing legacy of Cuba's political reality. One effect of this is that while Cubans you meet will often be very open and expressive with you, they tend to immediately clam up the minute another Cuban unknown to them enters the equation.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Gas costs about CUC$1.10 per liter (or about CUC$4.16 per gallon).

Holidays -- Cuba has a very limited number of official holidays, and aside from Christmas Day, no religious holidays are recognized by the state. The official holidays are January 1 (Liberation Day), May 1 (May Day, or Labor Day), July 26 (Revolution Day), October 10 (anniversary of the beginning of the 1868 War of Independence), and December 25 (Christmas Day). However, the state has such total control that it's not uncommon for mass rallies or entire national mobilizations to be called as it sees fit. Other important dates that sometimes bring Cuba to a de facto state of national holiday include: January 28 (Birth of José Martí), February 24 (anniversary of the beginning of the 1895 War of Independence), March 8 (International Women's Day), April 19 (anniversary of Bay of Pigs victory), July 30 (Day of the Martyrs of the Revolution), October 8 (anniversary of the death of Che Guevara), October 28 (anniversary of the death of Camilo Cienfuegos), and December 7 (anniversary of the death of Antonio Maceo).

Insurance -- In May 2010, Cuba implemented new insurance rules: All visitors and non-Cuban residents must hold a medical insurance policy. Failure to carry the correct documents could result in the visitor having to purchase mandatory coverage at the airport through Asistur. Visitors from the U.S. should take out their insurance policy from Cuban insurance companies that are affiliated with Havantur-Celimar Company. (American insurance companies do not provide coverage in Cuba.) For more information, contact the Cuban Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.cubaminrex.cu/english/LookCuba/Articles/Others/2010/06-04.html). That said, it seems that visitors are not always asked to present proof of insurance documentation on entry. Still, to be safe, you should take out an insurance policy before you arrive in Cuba. If you do need to purchase insurance at the airport, contact Asistur (tel. 7/866-4499; www.asistur.cu).

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/tips.

Language -- Spanish is the official language of Cuba. English is spoken at most tourist hotels and some restaurants and attractions. Outside of the tourist orbit, English is not widely spoken, and some rudimentary Spanish will go a long way.

Indigenous and African languages have had a profound and lasting influence, and you will find many words -- like cigar, barbacoa, and conga -- tracing their origin to indigenous and African sources used widely across the island. Various African dialects are still widely used in the songs and ceremonies of Santeria and other syncretic religions, although almost no one speaks them conversationally. In a legacy from the Soviet days, some Cubans speak Russian.

Legal Aid -- If you get into legal trouble, immediately request to be put in touch with your embassy. All embassies have round-the-clock emergency numbers. Asistur (www.asistur.cu) may also be able to help. Its emergency numbers are tel. 7/866-8527, tel. 7/866-8339, and tel. 7/866-8920.

Mail -- A post office is called a correo in Spanish. You can get stamps at post offices, gift shops, and the front desk in most hotels. The Cuban postal system is extremely slow and untrustworthy. You can count on every parcel and piece of mail being opened and inspected. The cost of a postcard or letter to the U.S. or Canada is CUC$.75, and it takes about 3 weeks for delivery. A postcard and letter to Europe costs CUC$.70. A package of up to 1 kilogram (2.2 lb.) will cost CUC$10 to CUC$20 to ship, depending upon your destination country, but can only be dealt with at principal post offices.

However, it is best to send anything of any value via an established international courier service. DHL, Calle 26 and Avenida 1, Miramar, Havana (tel. 7/204-1876; www.dhl.com), provides broad coverage to most of Cuba. Beware: Despite what you may be told, packages sent overnight to U.S. addresses tend to take 3 to 4 days to reach their destination.

Maps -- Most car-rental agencies and many hotels will give you a copy of very basic nationwide and Havana road maps. The Cuban Geographic and Cartographic Institute publishes a couple of much more detailed maps; most tourist gift shops and Infotur kiosks carry these maps. If you're buying a map before your trip, try to get the International Travel Map: Cuba (ITMB Publishing; www.itmb.com). You'll also find good maps online at www.cubaroutes.com. Anyone doing any serious driving should purchase the indispensable Guia de Carreteras available irregularly in Havana. Published by Limusa, it can be bought at El Navegante, Calle Mercaderes 115 between Obispo and Obrapía, La Habana Vieja.

Police -- Nationwide, you can dial tel. 106 for police, although you shouldn't expect to find an English-speaking person on the other end of the line. In general, the police are quite helpful and not to be feared. Bribery is not an issue. In the event of robbery, the police are your best bet, but for physical emergencies or other threats of serious danger, you are probably best off contacting your embassy.

Smoking -- Although Fidel gave up smoking years ago, Cuba remains a major producer of tobacco and tobacco products. Many Cubans smoke. Cuba introduced a nonsmoking ban in enclosed public places in February 2005, but it is not really enforced. Most restaurants have nonsmoking areas.

Taxes -- There are no direct or specific taxes on goods or services in Cuba. However, some tourist restaurants and paladares have begun adding a 10% service charge onto their bills. However, this charge goes directly to the state restaurant and not the waiter, so you will need to leave a cash tip too. There is a CUC$25 departure tax that must be paid in cash upon leaving the country.

Time -- Havana is 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time, or on a par with Eastern Standard Time in the United States and Canada. Daylight saving time is observed by setting clocks ahead 1 hour from one Sunday in March to one Sunday in October.

Tipping -- Most Cuban workers earn incredibly low salaries in dollar terms -- around CUC$10 to CUC$15 a month -- so tips are an extremely important and coveted source of supplemental income. With the rise in tourism, all sorts of workers now expect and work for tips, including taxi drivers, porters, waiters, guides, and restaurant musicians. Taxi drivers in particular are loath to give any small change on a fare. So if the meter reads CUC$4.30, you are expected to pay CUC$4.50, although you are certainly within your rights to ask for CUC$.20 or so. Taxi drivers, especially in Havana, tend to overcharge tourists. Porters should be tipped between CUC$.50 and CUC$1 per bag. Some state restaurants include a 10% service charge, although you should tip the waiter an additional 5% to 10% depending upon the quality of service, or even more (as this is how they actually survive, since they will not see any of that 10% service charge). If you stay in a resort, you should definitely tip the maid around CUC$1 a day, and also tip the waiters who serve you every day in the all-inclusive resorts, as they are on miserable salaries.

Toilets -- Public restrooms are hard to come by. You must usually count on the generosity of some hotel or restaurant, or duck into a museum or other attraction. Although it's rare that a tourist would be denied the use of the facilities, you should always ask first. In broad terms, the sanitary condition of public restrooms in Cuba is much higher than those found throughout the developing world, although at many establishments, toilet seats are sometimes missing. Always bring toilet paper with you wherever you go.

Many restrooms have an attendant, who is sometimes responsible for dispensing toilet paper. Upon exiting, you are expected to either leave a tip, or pay a specified fee. If the restrooms are not clean and you do not take the toilet paper, do not feel obliged to tip. Otherwise, leave up to CUC$.25

Water -- Water is generally safe to drink throughout the country. However, since many travelers have tender digestive tracts, I recommend playing it safe and sticking to bottled water, sold as agua mineral sin or con gas and made by Ciego Montero. However, bottled water can be expensive, so if you have a strong stomach, you should ask for agua hervida (boiled water), always kept in fridges in casas particulares.

Staying Connected

Mobile Phones

In Cuba, cellular service is controlled by Cubacel, Avenida 5 and Calle 76, Edificio Barcelona, Centro de Negocios, Miramar (tel. 7/204-1640; www.cubacel.cu). Cubacel has offices at the José Martí International Airport and in Havana and most major cities and tourist destinations. Cubacel offers SIM cards for CUC$3 per day. You'll have to leave a deposit and purchase a prepaid calling card.

If you have a Cuban friend, you could organize a permanent contract through them: a CUC$50 charge activates an account that must be topped up every 2 months with a minimum of CUC$10. If there has been no activity in 3 months, the line dies. Cubacel works with both TDMA phones and GSM systems. Prepaid calling cards are sold in denominations of CUC$10, CUC$20, and CUC$40. Rates inside Cuba run between CUC10¢ and CUC60¢ per minute for outgoing calls, depending on the hour and the package. Rates to the rest of the world run between CUC$1.40 and CUC$1.83 per minute. Text (SMS) messages are free to receive, but cost CUC16¢ to send within Cuba and CUC$1to send abroad. (Remember to dial Cuba's country code of 53 before any area code and the number you wish to dial in the country before using your own phone.)

Note: Any phone with a SIM from a U.S. provider will not work in Cuba.

Internet & E-mail

In all cities outside of Havana, head to the main Etecsa telephone office where you will find a small bank of computers. A large number of hotels in the provinces and most beach resorts also offer Internet access. In Havana, outside of the Etecsa office in La Habana Vieja, all the top-end hotels offer internet access. The José Martí International Airport in Havana also has Internet access. Internet access in most hotels and at Etecsa offices costs CUC$6 per hour for dial-up access. It is frequently frustratingly slow and is best avoided. You'll need to show your passport to register and get a card with a scratch-off log-in number and password, which will allow you to use any Etecsa computer around the country. It is valid for 30 days.

A handful of hotels have Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." These include the Meliá Cohiba, the NH Parque Central, Hotel Saratoga, Hotel Chateau Miramar in Havana, and the Hotel Meliá Santiago in Santiago de Cuba. Charges are from US$8 an hour.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. Throughout Cuba, electricity is mostly 110-volt AC, and most outlets are U.S.-style two- or three-prong. However, many of the large hotels and resorts that cater primarily to Canadian and European clientele are wired for 220 volts.

Newspapers & Magazines

The nationwide Spanish-language daily, Granma, is a thin paper with sparse coverage of local and international news, and a strong party-line editorial bias. The paper is not nearly as widely available as daily papers in most other countries, but some street vendors and many hotels do have copies each morning. English-digest versions of Granma come out every few days and are available at many hotels. A handful of other daily and weekly newspapers are published, and are usually even harder to find than Granma. These include Trabajadores, Juventud Rebelede, and a host of regional rags.

Telephones

The phone numbering system inside Cuba is being modernized, but it remains confusing. Havana's city code is one digit. Other area codes are two digits; individual phone numbers can range from five to seven digits. You do not need to use the city or area code for local calls, but you must dial 01 followed by the city or area code for any long-distance call within Cuba or to a cellphone, except when calling to or from Havana. Calling from Havana to any other province or from a province to Havana, you would dial only a zero before the area code. Thus, a call from Trinidad to Pinar del Rio would start 01-48. A call from Havana to Pinar del Rio would begin 0-48. The same rules apply for a cellphone call. All Cuba cellphones begin with a 5. To dial a cellphone from a fixed line in Havana, dial 0-5, then the rest of the cellphone number. If you call a cellphone from any other province, dial 01-5, then the rest of the cellphone number. If you dial cellphone to cellphone, just dial 5, then the rest of the cellphone number.

To call Cuba: If you're calling Cuba from the United States:

• First dial 011, the international access code.
• Then dial 53, the country code.
• And last, dial the area code and then the number.

The whole number you'd dial for a number in Havana (area code 7) would be 011-53-7-XXX-XXXX.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Cuba, first dial 119 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next dial the area code and number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 119/1-202-588-7800. You can make collect calls to Canada, Spain, the U.S., France, Italy, and the U.K.

For directory and operator assistance: Dial tel. 113 if you're looking for a number inside Cuba and for domestic help, and dial tel. 180 for numbers to all other countries and for help with collect calls.

Nearly all hotels and some casas particulares have phones in their rooms. Dialing instructions should be available in rooms; if not, contact the reception desk. Cuba has a wide range of public telephone booths where Cuban pesos (moneda nacional) and a variety of cards can be used. Most older sky-blue phones have been phased out but where you see them -- and the newer royal-blue phones with a coin slot -- they will take moneda nacional. This is the cheapest option where you can talk for a very long time for 1 peso.

You can also buy pre-paid calling cards with set values; with these cards, you can make telephone calls by first dialing an access code (166), then dialing the number on your card, followed by the hash key, and then the phone number you want to dial. These cards are available in CUC and in moneda nacional and may be worth purchasing if you plan to make a lot of local calls on your trip. Note that international calls made from these calling cards run between CUC$1.50-CUC$1.80 a minute. To dial an international number from a CUC pre-paid calling card, you must dial 166 followed by the card code followed by the hash key, followed by 119 (international code) followed by the international area code, then the number you wish to call, followed by a hash key.

New royal-blue phones can be used for these calling cards expressed in CUC (from CUC$5) and moneda nacional (from $10MN). Only buy the CUC cards to make international calls, as making a local call with a CUC card means you are paying more than several times the peso amount.

Note that many public phone booths, especially in Havana, frequently break down. Those that are working suffer from long queues in Havana and, if you are in a rush, this may not be your best option.

Note that if you stay in a casa particular and wish to confirm your subsequent casa in another town, your casa owner will make this courtesy call for you. Pre-paid calling cards can be used from land lines in casa homes too.

Regions in Brief

Cuba is probably the most intensely diverse island destination in the Caribbean, with everything from standard fun-in-the-sun beach resort getaways to colonial city circuits, myriad land and sea adventure opportunities, tobacco and classic-car theme tours, and a wide array of cultural and artistic offerings. There's a lot to see and do in Cuba, and most travelers will have to carefully pick and choose. This section will provide you with descriptions of the country's regions, along with itineraries that will help you get the most from your visit.

Cuba is the westernmost and largest of the entire chain of Caribbean islands, located at the convergence of the Caribbean Sea, the Gulf of Mexico, and the Atlantic Ocean just 145km (90 miles) south of Florida. They say that Cuba -- if you use your imagination -- looks something like a crocodile: The head is in the east, a line of small islands form the ridges along its back, the Sierra Maestra national park forms the front legs, the Zapata Peninsula forms the rear legs, and Pinar del Río province is the tail. Cuba is in fact a closely linked string of archipelagos, made up of more than 4,000 separate little islands and cays.

Cuba's two major cities, Havana and Santiago de Cuba, are port cities with large protected harbors. Most of the island's other principal cities lie along its centerline, either right on or just off the Autopista Nacional (National Hwy.), the country's principal trade and transportation route.

Havana & Playas del Este

Havana is Cuba's capital and the country's most important cultural, political, and economic hub. With a wealth of museums, antique buildings, old forts, the Malecón seaside promenade, and modern restaurants, clubs, and cabarets, Havana is one of the liveliest and most engaging cities in Latin America. Just east of the city center are some 15km (9 miles) of very respectable white-sand beach, the Playas del Este. While nowhere near as stunning as some of Cuba's more celebrated beach destinations, the Playas del Este are certainly a suitable alternative, either as a base for exploring Havana or as an easily accessible place for sun, sand, and sea.

Viñales & Western Cuba

Comprising the new province of Artemisa and the most western province of Pinar del Río, western Cuba is a wonderfully rustic region of farms and forests, flanked by some beautiful and relatively underpopulated beaches. The only real city in the province, Pinar del Río, is of limited interest on its own, but it serves as a gateway to Viñales and the Vuelta Abajo, Cuba's premiere tobacco-growing and cigar-manufacturing region. Just north of Pinar del Río, Viñales is a pretty little hamlet in an even prettier valley, surrounded by stunning karst hill formations. Viñales is Cuba's prime ecotourist destination, with great opportunities for hiking, bird-watching, mountain biking, and cave exploration. On the far western tip of the island sits the tiny resort of María la Gorda, home to some of the best scuba diving in Cuba. Lying off the southern coast of this region in the Caribbean Sea are the island destinations of Isla de la Juventud, one of Cuba's top premiere scuba-diving destinations, and Cayo Largo del Sur, another long stretch of dazzling and isolated white sand.

Varadero & Matanzas Province

Matanzas is Cuba's second-largest province and home to its most important beach destination, Varadero. Boasting some 21km (13 miles) of nearly uninterrupted white-sand beach, Varadero is Cuba's quintessential sun-and-fun destination, with a host of luxurious all-inclusive resorts strung along the length of this narrow peninsula. In addition to Varadero, Matanzas province is home to the colonial-era cities of Matanzas and Cárdenas.

In the southern section of the province is the Ciénaga de Zapata, a vast wetlands area of mangrove and swamp, renowned for its wildlife-viewing, bird-watching, and fishing opportunities. This is also where you'll find the Bahía de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs), where the nascent Cuban revolutionary state defeated an invasion force trained, supplied, and abetted by the United States. The beaches of Playa Girón and Playa Larga serve as a base for access to some of Cuba's best scuba diving. Playa Girón also possesses, arguably, the most stunning colorful waters in Cuba.

Trinidad & Central Cuba

Beginning with the provinces of Villa Clara and Cienfuegos, and including the neighboring province of Sancti Spíritus, central Cuba is the start of the country's rural heartland. Vast regions of sugar cane, tobacco, and cattle ranges spread out on either side of the Autopista Nacional, which more or less bisects this region as it heads east.

Trinidad is perhaps Cuba's quintessential colonial-era city, with beautifully maintained and restored buildings set on winding cobblestone streets. The cities of Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, and Sancti Spíritus are considered lesser lights on the tourism circuit, but all have ample charms of their own. Santa Clara is a lively university town, and is considered the "City of Che Guevara," with its massive memorial to the fallen revolutionary leader. To the north of Santa Clara lie the tiny and utterly charming colonial city of Remedios and the beautiful beach resorts of la Cayería del Norte. Cienfuegos is a charming port town with the country's second-longest seaside promenade. Sancti Spíritus is one of the original seven villas of Cuba, with some wonderful old historic churches and buildings, and a more natural feel than you'll find in other more touristy towns.

Camagüey & Northeastern Cuba

This section of mainland Cuba is little more than a string of rural towns and small cities, anchored by two colonial-era cities. This is Cuba at its quietest, stuck in time and in no rush to break free. However, off the northern coast here lie a series of modern beach resorts built on long stretches of soft and silvery white sand, connected to the mainland by a long narrow causeway that seems to barely skirt the surface of the sea. The sister resort islands of Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo are two of the finest and most popular resort destinations in Cuba. Several less-developed beach resorts stretch east along the coast on the string of islands making up the Archipiélago de Camagüey, better known as the Jardines del Rey (King's Gardens). The cities of Ciego de Avila and Camagüey are seldom explored colonial-era cities. The latter, in particular, has loads of charms and attractions, and is being restored to highlight much of its former glory. North of Camagüey is the tiny but growing beach resort of Santa Lucía. It's best known for its excellent scuba diving, offering a chance to dive with bull sharks.

El Oriente

For most of the country's history, the whole eastern end of Cuba was known as El Oriente. Today, it is comprised of four separate provinces: Holguín, Granma, Santiago de Cuba, and Guantánamo. This is a large region with a host of gorgeous natural attractions, highlighted by the mountains of the Sierra Maestra -- a mecca for naturalists and adventure travelers as well as those looking to follow in the revolutionary footsteps of Fidel and Che -- and the very beautiful beaches of Guardalavaca, yet another of Cuba's premier beach resort destinations, with unimaginably fine white sand and calm turquoise waters. Of the cities here, only Santiago de Cuba is a tourist draw in its own right, although visitors to Holguín, Bayamo, or Baracoa will experience Cuba at its most authentic.

Santiago de Cuba

This is Cuba's second largest city. Set between the Sierra Maestra mountains and the sea, Santiago is a vibrant city with a rich artistic and cultural heritage. Santiago is considered the heart of Cuba's Afro-Cuban and Afro-Caribbean heritage, which is expressed in the music, dance, and religion you'll find here. Santiago's Carnival celebrations are by far the best in Cuba, and some of the best in the entire Caribbean.

The city itself has a charming colonial-era center and a host of interesting museums and attractions, including José Martí's tomb and mausoleum, the original Bacardí rum factory, and the impressive Castillo del Morro protecting the city's harbor. Nearby sites worth visiting include the El Cobre shrine to the island's patron saint, La Virgin de Caridad, and the Gran Piedra, a massive rock outcropping allowing for great hiking and views.

Escorted Tours & Independent Package Tours

There are more than 100 licensed travel service providers in the United States; almost all offer charter flights and packages. Some of these operators arrange well-organized escorted general-interest tours. A couple of the best and most reputable are:

From Canada -- In addition to the agencies listed below, Canadian travelers and others using Canada as a gateway can check directly with Transat Holidays (tel. 866/322-6649 in the U.S. and Canada; www.transatholidays.com), the tour agency arm of one of the principal charter flight companies to Cuba. 

From the U.K. --

From Australia & New Zealand -- 

• Caribbean Bound (tel. 02/9267-2555; www.caribbean.com.au) is a specialist in travel throughout the Caribbean.
• Caribbean Destinations (tel. 03/9571-3744; www.caribbeanislands.com.au) is another Australian-based specialist in travel throughout the Caribbean.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

Cuba is not a society geared up for vegetarianism. Vegetables are not plentiful, although fruits are widely available. Eggs are widely available and peanuts (mani) are sold on the street. Fish can be found in abundance. Travelers should locate the small vegetable markets (agromercados) where private trading of products is allowed. Rice and beans (moros y cristianos) are plentiful. Dairy products are not always available. Cartons of fruit juices and biscuits and tins of olives are always available in town supermarkets. In short, a vegetarian won't starve, but this is no place to come for any innovative cuisine.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Cuba is a comfortable destination for senior travelers. Seniors are treated with deference and respect in Cuba. Moreover, it's a particularly safe country, with low levels of street crime, and the food and water are generally safe as well.

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations -- some of the hotel chains and package tour operators still offer discounts for seniors. However, don't expect to find specific senior discounts once you arrive in Cuba, where you will be lumped into the category of rich foreigner and gouged as much as possible, like all the rest.

ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 in North America and 0808-234-1717 in the U.K.; www.eldertreks.com) is a Canadian-based company that arranges small-group (up to 16 people) adventure trips for those 50 and older to Cuba.

In the U.K., trips to Cuba are offered by Saga, The Saga Building, Enbrook Park, Folkestone, Kent, CT20 3SE (tel. 0800/096-0078; www.saga.co.uk).

Tips for Black Travelers

Africans and African-Americans used to be hassled quite regularly by the police as they were mistaken for Cuban citizens. Thankfully, with the change in apartheid rules in Cuba in February 2008, this is much less common. There is also the advantage of ethnically blending in and thus being less subject to hassle and scams. In Havana, multicultural attractions include Chinatown, Arabic societies, and synagogues. Mass is held in all churches across the country.

Race Relations in Cuba

The Cuban population is -- very conservatively -- estimated to be about one-third black or mixed-race (in reality, the percentage is probably closer to two-thirds or more). Cuba officially declares itself to be colorblind and, at least on the surface, the obvious mixed-race heritage and the strong presence of Afro-Cuban culture seem to support that notion. Though as a society, Cuba is much less racist and male dominated than it was before the Revolution, racism still exists, even if much of it is under the radar. Economic racism is widespread; relatively few black Cubans occupy positions of authority in the government, state enterprise, or tourism. Racist comments are as regrettably common as they are in other countries. Many Cubans assume blacks to be the majority of jineteros (male hustlers) and jineteras (female escorts), even though the reality is that hustling in Cuba is universal. Most Cubans also believe that the police harass blacks to a disproportionate degree, and travelers of African and Hispanic descent may experience the same. Spanish-speaking travelers accompanying Anglo-looking tourists are sometimes followed and questioned by police who ignorantly assume them to be Cuban hustlers working a beat. In fact, one other disturbing aspect of this situation is that black tourists are sometimes mistaken for Cuban jineteros and may be given a hard time by security personnel upon entering hotels, although now that it is legal for Cubans to enter and stay in hotels with foreigners, this should no longer happen.

Tips for Student Travelers

Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America, 132-782 in Australia, or 087/1-2-300-040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student, but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Escorted & Package Tours

There are more than 100 licensed travel service providers in the United States; almost all offer charter flights and packages. Some of these operators arrange well-organized escorted general-interest tours. A couple of the best and most reputable are:

• ABC Charters (tel. 305/263-6829; www.abc-charters.com) is an excellent travel service provider and charter company based in Miami.
• Tico Travel (tel. 800/493-8426 in the U.S. or Canada, or 954/493-8426; www.destinationcuba.com) is a dependable company with operations throughout much of Latin America.

From Canada

In addition to the agencies listed below, Canadian travelers and others using Canada as a gateway can check directly with Air Transat Holidays (tel. 866/322-6649 in the U.S. and Canada; www.airtransatholidays.com), the tour agency arm of one of the principal charter flight companies to Cuba.

• Sol Meliá Cuba (www.solmeliacuba.ca) is the Canadian-based tour agency arm of the Sol Meliá company.
• Signature Travel (tel. 866/324-2883; www.signaturevacations.com) is the largest tour and package operator in Canada, with offices in Burnaby, Mississauga, Montreal, and Winnipeg.

From the U.K.

• Cuba Welcome (tel. 020/7731-6871; www.cubawelcome.com) is a good U.K.-based operator with a knowledgeable and dependable operation on the ground in Cuba.
• Regent Holidays (tel. 0845/277-33661; www.regent-cuba.com) is the specialized Cuba unit of this U.K. tour operator.
• Journey Latin America (tel. 020/8747-3108; www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) is a large U.K.-based operator for trips throughout the hemisphere, with often very good deals on airfare.
• Cuba Direct (tel. 0844/415-5510; www.cubadirect.co.uk) is a good Cuban-owned operator running a variety of tours.
• Thomas Cook (tel. 0870/750-5711; www.thomascook.com) is a major U.K.-based operator for trips around the world, with excellent operations in Cuba.

From Australia & New Zealand

• Caribbean Bound (tel. 02/9267-2555; www.caribbean.com.au) is a specialist in travel throughout the Caribbean.
• Caribbean Destinations (tel. 03/9571-3744; www.caribbeanislands.com.au) is another Australian-based specialist in travel throughout the Caribbean.

Cuba-Based Agencies

• Cubalinda (tel. 7/836-4062; www.cubalinda.com) is an excellent agency that provides hands-on service and is especially adept at helping nonlicensed U.S. travelers understand and work with the various options open to them.
• Cuba Welcome (tel. 020/7731-6871 in the U.K.; or Office 608, Bacardi Building, Calle Monserrate, La Habana Vieja, tel. 7/863-3885 in Cuba; www.cubawelcome.com) is a U.K.-based operator that has an excellent operation on the ground in Cuba.

For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Special-Interest Vacations

There are plenty of options for a special-interest or theme vacation to Cuba. Popular themes include cigars, Ernest Hemingway, classic cars, bird-watching, diving, fishing, and Latin dance.

Language, Music & Photography Classes

The University of Havana (www.uh.cu) offers language classes from CUC$100 a month starting on the first Monday of every month. A 60-hour Cuban culture class is offered every second month. The University of the Oriente in Santiago de Cuba (www.uo.edu.cu) also offers Spanish classes from CUC$231.

Caledonia (tel. 0131/621-7721; www.caledonialanguages.com) offers Spanish courses in Havana and Santiago from £160 per week. Caledonia also offers fantastic music and dance trips to Cuba with prices starting at £1,995 for 2 weeks. (It is also possible to combine these activities with language classes.) Caledonia is tied to the Cuban Music School (www.jazzsummerschool.com/cuban_music_school). Caledonia is listed as a responsible travel operator by www.responsibletravel.com.

Cuba Direct also offers a variety of dance class options (www.cubadirect.co.uk/holidays/salsa-default.aspx).

If you're interested in photography, check www.trinidadphoto.com for workshop tours with British photographer Keith Cardwell. Tours are run in conjunction with Cuban photographer Julio Muñoz based in Trinidad. An 11-day tour costs £1,350 per person, excluding food and flights.

Volunteer & Working Trips

The Cuban Solidarity Campaign (tel. 0208/800-0155; www.cuba-solidarity.org/brigades.asp) runs international work brigades twice a year for up to 22 days from £945 per person, including all flights, accommodations, and food. See also Global Exchange.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local convertible peso currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Cuba is not a particularly cheap island to travel around for tourists and is not cheap at all compared to its neighboring Central American countries. You can reduce costs by traveling on the Víazul bus system and staying in casas particulares (private homes with rooms for rent), but note that single travelers rarely get a discount on a double room in a private house. You can easily pay out CUC$25 in a 2-week trip just on tipping the ubiquitous music bands that play in restaurants.

Although Castro has replaced the U.S. dollar with the Cuban convertible peso, or CUC, Cuba has always operated under a de facto dollarized economy. The CUC is an internationally unsupported currency, and it is, for all intents and purposes, pegged to the U.S. dollar. All of the CADECA branches and major banks will change U.S. dollars, euros, British pounds, and Canadian dollars.

There are, in fact, two distinct kinds of currency circulating in Cuba: the moneda libremente convertible ("convertible peso" or CUC), and the moneda nacional (Cuban peso or MN or CUP). Both are distinguished by the dollar $ symbol, leading to some confusion. Both the CUC and moneda nacional are divided up into units of 100 centavos. To complicate matters, the euro is also legal tender in many of the hotels, restaurants, and shops in several of the larger, isolated beach resort destinations. Note: In this guide, we list prices in the Cuban convertible peso (CUC$), but when an establishment only accepts the Cuban peso (MN) we also list prices in MN.

The convertible peso functions on a near one-to-one parity with the dollar -- at press time, the official exchange rate was US$1=CUC$0.93 and £1=CUC1.43. However, U.S. dollars are penalized by a 10% surcharge on all money exchange operations into convertible pesos. For this reason, it is best to carry any hard currency you plan on spending in Cuba as euros, British pounds, or Canadian dollars. All of these are freely exchanged at all CADECA branches and most banks around Cuba. Be sure to bring relatively fresh and new bills. Cuban banks will sometimes refuse to accept bills with even slight tears or markings. Also, it is wise to bring a calculator with you and carefully monitor the exchange process, as tellers have been known to deliberately shortchange unsuspecting and overly trusting tourists.

Convertible pesos come in 1, 3, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 peso bills. Convertible peso coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 centavos, and 1 peso. Although the government has long abandoned its official posture of a one-to-one parity between the Cuban peso (MN) and the U.S. dollar, the habit of converting moneda nacional prices directly into dollars is still common in many situations. Currently, Cuban pesos can be exchanged legally for CUC (and vice versa) at any CADECA money exchange office, some banks, and many hotels. The official exchange rate as of press time was around 24 Cuban pesos to the CUC. While opportunities for travelers to pay in Cuban pesos are few and far between, it is not a bad idea to exchange around CUC$1 to CUC$2 for pesos soon after arrival. It may be possible to pay for some meals, movie tickets, and other goods or services in Cuban pesos, and the savings are substantial. If "MN" is displayed on the prices, you should theoretically be paying Cuban pesos. However, in most cases, vendors will try to insist that any non-Cuban pay in convertible pesos, often at a one-to-one rate of exchange.

You can exchange any remaining convertible pesos for U.S. dollars, sterling, or euros at the airport before leaving. Do so, as the convertible pesos will be useless outside of Cuba.

Note: Cubans still often use the terms peso and dollar interchangeably. If you are quoted a price in pesos, it may not be the bargain you think it to be. To be clear, "moneda nacional" or "MN" always refers to Cuban pesos. Other terms for a CUC include divisa, chavito, verde, guano, and fula. Cash is known as efectivo.

Cuba's state banking system is trying to keep up with the rise in international tourism and joint business ventures. Both the Banco de Crédito y Comercio and Banco Financiero Internacional have opened up branches in most major business and tourist areas; most are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 4pm and a handful are open on Saturday mornings. These banks are the place to go for cash withdrawals off of your non-U.S.-issued credit cards. They'll also work for cashing traveler's checks or changing currency, but your best bet for money-exchange transactions is the national chain of casas de cambio (money-exchange houses), CADECA, S.A. You'll find CADECA branches in most major cities and tourist destinations, as well as at all the international airports. Don't be scared off by the long lines in front of most CADECA offices. These are invariably Cubans looking to buy Cuban Convertible Pesos, or CUC (chavitos). Foreigners wanting to sell dollars (dólares) and sterling (Libra Esterlina) for Cuban Convertible Pesos can almost always jump to the head of the line and walk right in, but ask beforehand. This is also the place to change your CUCs into national pesos (moneda nacional) for the odd purchase of mani (peanuts in a paper cone; $1MN), Granma newspaper, or a peso pizza and peso beer.

Warning: Do not change money in the street. It is inevitable that you will be given a wad of useless national pesos instead of CUCs. Also, if you are offered the silver three-peso Che Guevara coin as a souvenir, note that it is worth three national pesos and not CUC$3; it can be obtained in a CADECA for $3MN.

MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted at hotels, car-rental agencies, and official restaurants and shops, with the caveat that they cannot be issued by a United States bank or financial institution. Diners Club is also accepted, although to a much lesser extent. American Express cards are not accepted anywhere on the island. It is always best to check with your home bank before traveling to see if your card will work in Cuba. If you have ignored all advice, contact Asistur, which can advise you on a company in Santo Domingo that can arrange a transaction between your U.S. bank and Asistur.

You are fabulously ripped off when taking money out on your debit or credit card in Cuba. No matter what the country of origin of your card, your transaction will first be converted into dollars, thereby incurring a charge of up to a staggering 12.5%, before you are given the CUC. On a CUC$800 withdrawal, you'll pay a whopping CUC$100fee. This also happens at ATMs where your request for CUC is converted to U.S. dollars at that day's exchange rate. You are then charged 3% of the transaction in dollars at the point of withdrawal.

Most paladares (private-home restaurants), casas particulares (private-home accommodations), and small businesses do not accept credit cards. In the more remote destinations, you should count on using cash for all transactions. Moreover, shaky phone connections and other logistical problems often get in the way of credit card usage. I actually saw some British travelers unable to use a card at a major hotel because the hotel was out of receipt tape, and the staff wasn't sure when the hotel would get more. Do not count on paying a hotel bill with a credit card unless it is a very expensive hotel and/or linked to an international chain such as Sol Melía.

If your credit card is lost or stolen while you're in Cuba, you can contact Fincimex, 3 Av 408 corner of Calle 6, Miramar, Havana (tel. 7/204-9252). However, you're best off having written down in advance your issuing bank's telephone number and calling the bank directly. Banks will usually accept collect calls from anywhere in the world. You can also contact Asistur.

Cuba has a modestly expanding network of ATMs (automated teller machines) associated with a string of banks, like the Banco de Crédito y Comercio and Banco Financiero Internacional. No credit or debit cards issued by U.S.-based companies will work at any of these machines. However, travelers from other countries can easily extract convertible pesos from ATMs at the international airport and most major tourist destinations. As with credit cards, it is always best to check with your home bank before traveling to see if your ATM card will work in Cuba.

Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2 in the U.S.).

You can use your credit card to receive cash advances at ATMs. Keep in mind that credit card companies protect themselves from theft by limiting maximum withdrawals outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

In Cuba, traveler's checks are accepted at most major hotels, government-run or chain restaurants, and major attractions, but far less readily than credit cards. The same prohibition against U.S. bank-issued tender applies to traveler's checks. If you are a die-hard fan of traveler's checks, Thomas Cook (visit www.thomascook.com to find your nearest branch) and Visa (tel. 0800/89-5078 in the U.K.) traveler's checks issued outside of the United States are still your best bet. Most banks, CADECA offices, hotels, and businesses charge commissions of around 3% and 4% on weekends for cashing traveler's checks.

What Things Cost in Cuba (CUC$)

Taxi from Havana airport to downtown 20.00-25.00

Bicitaxi ride from bus station to downtown 5.00

Double room in an all-inclusive beach resort, moderate 100.00-150.00

Double room in a provincial city, moderate 50.00-100.00

Room in a casa particular 20.00-35.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 10.00-15.00

Bottle of beer 1.25

Mojito 2.50-5.00

Bottle of water (1.5 liters) 0.70-1.50

Cup of coffee 0.25-1.00

1 gallon/1 liter of premium gas 4.16 / 1.10

1-hour Internet card 6.00

Admission to most museums 1.00-5.00

Getting Around

By Plane

Cubana (tel. 7/838-1039; www.cubana.cu) is the principal national and international carrier for Cuba. It is code-shared with Aerocaribbean (www.fly-aerocaribbean.com). There's a full schedule of commuter flights connecting Havana and Varadero with the destination cities of Baracoa, Bayamo, Camagüey, Ciego de Avila, Manzanillo, Nueva Gerona (Isla de la Juventud), Guantánamo, Holguín, Santiago de Cuba, Las Tunas, Cayo Largo, and Cayo Coco. If you know you'll need an internal flight, try to have your travel agent or tour operator book it in advance. If not, you can easily book flights from almost any local tour operator.

By Car

Driving a rental car is an excellent way to travel around Cuba. (The legal age requirement is 21.) It gives you great flexibility and allows you to access beautiful off-the-beaten-track places. Many roads are in acceptable condition, while many are severely substandard. And, while there's very little traffic, you'll have to keep a sharp eye out for small and large chasms in the road, horse-drawn carriages, slow-moving tractors, scores of bicyclists, wandering dogs and fowl, and pedestrians taking over major roadways.

It is completely inadvisable to drive at night. It is very unsafe because there is no lighting on highways. Animal-drawn transport, some lorries, bicycles, and pedestrians are also not illuminated, giving rise to highly dangerous driving situations.

The speed limit for cars is 50kmph (31 mph) in the cities, 90kmph (56 mph) on the carretera, and 100kmph (62 mph) on the Autopista.

In all cities, there are parqueos where you can leave your vehicle attended for 24 hours. This costs from CUC$1 to CUC$2 a night. It may be unwise to leave the vehicle unattended in cities, as theft of wheels and wipers is not unknown.

There is a handful of state-run car-rental companies, with a large, modern fleet of rental cars to choose from. Prices and selection are rather standard, with an abundance of small, economy Japanese and Korean cars. A standard rental car should cost you between CUC$45 and CUC$85 per day, including insurance and unlimited mileage, depending on the model and the season. Low-season (temporada baja) prices are, obviously, cheaper. Some agencies start you off with a full tank of gas for which they charge you -- in addition to the rental fee -- then give no credit for any gas left in the tank upon the return of the car. Discounts are available for multiday rentals. It's always a good idea to have a reservation in advance, especially during peak periods, when cars can get a little scarce. However, there's a Catch-22 here, in that many of the state-run agencies don't have a trustworthy international reservations system. As is the case with rampant overbooking of hotel rooms, when demand outstrips supply, the car-rental agencies will often not honor your supposedly confirmed reservation.

Cubans may now drive rental cars and can be included on your insurance for an additional cost, as can a second foreign driver. Insurance is voided if an accident is shown to be caused by a driver under the influence of alcohol.

Some of the major car rental agencies in Cuba are Cubacar (tel. 7/273-2277), Havanautos (tel. 7/207-9898), Micar (tel. 7/204-7777), Rex (tel. 7/835-6830; www.rex.cu), Transtur (tel. 7/862-2686; www.transtur.cu), and Vía Rent a Car (tel. 7/861-4465; www.gaviota-grupo.com). All car rental agencies have desks at the Havana airport and at a host of major hotels around Havana and the rest of the country. If you book your car online, the best deals are usually found at the rental-car company websites, although all the major online travel agencies also offer rental-car reservation services. It may be cheaper to book your rental car before you arrive in Cuba.

All car-rental agencies in Cuba, except Transtur, offer insurance coverage for between CUC$10 and CUC$20 per day which must be paid in cash separately. Transtur, which runs Cubacar and Rex, charges a minimum CUC$15 for coverage for rentals that start in Havana. Most agencies carry a deductible of CUC$200 to CUC$1,000. Transtur's deductible is a minimum of CUC$350 on rentals that start in Havana. Some companies charge extra for picking a car up at an airport. Additional drivers will be charged between CUC$3 and CUC$10 per day. If you drop the car off in a different city than you picked it from, there will be a charge. Some companies do not cover theft, but this is a very minor problem in Cuba. If you hold a private auto insurance policy, you may be covered abroad for loss or damage to the car, and liability in case a passenger is injured. The credit card you use to rent the car also may provide some coverage. However, be sure to check whether or not your insurance company or credit card coverage excludes rental cars in Cuba. Moreover, this type of coverage probably does not cover liability if you caused the accident. Check your own auto insurance policy, the rental company policy, and your credit card coverage for the extent of coverage. Note that the daily insurance charge, if you pay it, is only payable in cash and never appears to be documented on official literature.

Be very thorough when checking out your car, and make sure that all accoutrements (like a spare tire, jack, and radio) are present and accounted for. Moreover, be sure to have the agent note every little nick and scratch, or you run a great risk of being charged for them upon your car's return. You will also be charged for small nicks caused by flying stones on some of Cuba's poorer roads. Gasoline costs about CUC$1.30 especial per liter (por litro), or CUC$1.15 regular per liter. Diesel is CUC$1.10 per liter. Gone are the gas shortages of several years ago. Service stations are plentiful and conveniently located on the major highways and on the outskirts of all major centers, as well as in major towns and cities. Tourist cars should use gasolina especial. Service stations are digitized.

Every car-rental agency will provide you with a basic road map. Alternately, you can try to get a copy of the International Travel Map: Cuba (ITMB Publishing; www.itmb.com) before arriving. The best road map is the Guia de Carreteras, but it is not widely available.

While driving is generally easy and stress free, there are a couple of concerns for most foreign drivers here. First (and most annoying) is the fact that there are very, very few road signs and directional aids. This means that getting lost will happen. If you don't speak Spanish you will need a dictionary, phrases, paper and pen, and patience. Secondly, there's the issue of hitchhikers. Cuba's public transportation network is grossly overburdened and hitchhiking is a way of life. The highways sometimes seem like one long line, with periodic swellings, of people asking for a lift, or botella. While this is not dangerous, you should still be careful about whom you pick up as theft of belongings has been reported. It is not advisable to pick up hitchhikers after dark. However, the biggest hassle of offering rides is twofold: When you stop, you are likely to be swarmed by supplicants, who will want to stuff your car to the brink of its carrying capacity; and most hitchhikers are looking for relatively short hops, so once you pick up a load, you might find yourself suddenly making constant stops to let your passengers off -- at which point there will almost certainly be a new rider immediately vying to snag the just-emptied seat. (You can, however, stop at an official botella point, identified by the mustard-yellow uniformed official with a clipboard.) However, that said, you will be providing the public-transport-starved Cubans with a much-needed ride.

Instead of driving your own rental car, an alternative option could be to hire a Cuban driver. In September 2010, the Cuban government announced plans that would allow Cubans to legally chauffeur tourists in their old American cars. At press time, the punitive tax codes for these new forms of self-employment had been announced, but no licenses had been issued

Note: Stop at all railroad crossings! It's the law, and it's also an important safety measure. Cuba's railroad network crisscrosses its highway system at numerous points. Trains rarely slow down and even rarer still are protective crossbars or warning lights. Police often hang out at railroad crossings, both to warn drivers when a train is coming and to dole out tickets to those who don't come to a stop.

One final note: If you have a minor accident you must go to a police station and get a signed report saying what happened and stating that you are not responsible for the damage (if that's the case). If the report does not state you are not responsible, you will be liable. If you are involved in a serious accident, whether or not you are to blame, you may be detained. If someone is killed, call your embassy for assistance and get a translator immediately.

By Train

The state-run train agency, Ferrocuba (tel. 7/861-4259), has offices in each train station. Havana is connected to Pinar del Río in the west, and Santiago de Cuba in the east by rail traffic. There are usually one or two trains a day heading west, and a half dozen or so heading east. Intermediate cities with regular service include Matanzas, Santa Clara, Ciego de Avila, Camagüey, Las Tunas, and Holguín. The principal train station, or Estación Central, is located in Havana at Calle Egido and Calle Arsenal, La Habana Vieja (tel. 7/861-4259).

Unlike the state-run bus service, there are usually seats available on most trains. However, most trains are in rather bad shape, with uncomfortable seats and limited amenities. Be sure to bring along some food and something to drink. Even if there's a cafeteria car onboard, which isn't always the case, you might not find any of the offerings particularly appealing, and they might just run out of food somewhere along the line. Moreover, train travel in Cuba is notoriously erratic, with frequent schedule changes and delays lasting up to 3 days. It is always best to check current schedules and conditions before buying a ticket and undertaking a train journey. If you are short on time and not looking for this kind of adventure, it would be wise to avoid all trains.

The most attractive rail option for travelers is the 12-hour express train to Santiago de Cuba, leaving Havana each evening at 6:05pm; the fare is CUC$50 to CUC$62. This train only makes stops in Santa Clara and Camagüey, and is the most modern and comfortable train in the whole national system.

By Bus

For all intents and purposes, the only buses tourists will ride in Cuba are those run by Víazul (tel. 7/881-1413; www.viazul.com). (Note: This website is not updated. Although the timetable and prices are incorrect, they are not hugely off the mark. If you plan a trip using the displayed timetable, your trip won't be completely thrown off kilter.) Víazul buses are modern and comfortable with lavatories on board. Now that many Cubans are using the service, it's more important to reserve at least several days in advance in high season. Víazul travels to most major tourist destinations in Cuba. The main Víazul station is located in Nuevo Vedado, Havana, across from the metropolitan zoo. However, some of its routes, including the popular Viñales and Pinar del Río route, can be booked and boarded at the main bus terminal near the Plaza de la Revolución.  Children aged 5-12 pay half price; children 4 and under who do not occupy a seat travel for free.

You can also book Víazul tickets in the international airport in Havana and at Infotur offices around the country. Many tour agencies across the country are also now selling Víazul tickets at no extra cost to the purchaser. This is a great service, especially when many bus stations are a big sprint out of town. This also means travelers do not have to turn up early in order to purchase tickets before the bus departure. Note that in high season in some places, such as Baracoa, tickets are booked up well in advance and travelers are known to have been stuck for a few days; if you have a tight schedule, buy your return ticket for this route in Santiago de Cuba.

Note that it may not be possible to buy advanced tickets on some routes, for example Bayamo to Santiago. This is because the reservation system is not mechanized and the staff does not know if there is availability until the bus arrives. However, this likely will not be a problem.

Getting There

By Plane

Cuba has 10 international airports. Havana is by far the principal gateway, although there are numerous regularly scheduled and charter flights to Varadero (VRA) and Santiago de Cuba (SCU) as well. To a lesser extent, international charter flights from Canada and Europe service Cayo Largo del Sur (CYO), Cienfuegos (CFG), Santa Clara (SNU), Camagüey (CMW), Ciego de Avila (AVI), Holguín (HOG), and Cayo Coco (CCC).

It's roughly a 70-minute flight from Miami to Havana; 3 hours and 30 minutes from New York to Havana; 4 hours and 30 minutes from Toronto or Montreal to Havana; and 9-10 hours from London to Havana. Most of the principal Caribbean basin gateway cities -- Cancún, George Town (Grand Cayman), Kingston, Nassau, and Santo Domingo -- are between 30 and 90 minutes to Havana by air.

Airfares vary widely, depending on the season, demand, and certain ticketing restrictions. But, given the high number of charter flights and package tours to Cuba, combined with the stiff competition for vacation travel throughout the Caribbean, airfares are relatively cheap, and bargains abound. It really pays to shop around. If you wish to visit Cuba in July and August, a popular tourist season, book in advance because charter flights sell often out at this time.

Cubana (tel. 7/838-1039; www.cubana.cu) is Cuba's national airline and the principal carrier to the island, with regularly scheduled flights to a score of cities throughout the Americas, Europe, and Canada. (Cubana is code-shared with Aerocaribbean.)

There is no regularly scheduled service between the United States and Cuba, although there are numerous charter flights from Miami, and to a lesser extent from New York and Los Angeles. Licensed U.S. travelers are eligible to use these flights.

Getting into Town from the Airport -- Cubataxis, the name for all official taxis in Cuba, line up outside the arrivals hall and you will be shepherded to the first in the queue. Despite it being illegal to carry passengers without using the meter, airport taxi drivers will refuse to use them and charge a flat fee of around CUC$20 to Vedado and CUC$25 to La Habana Vieja. The metered fee is around CUC$15. If you arrive at Varadero or Holguin airports, there will be taxis waiting as well as car rental options.

By Boat

When arriving by sea, contact the port authorities before entering Cuban waters 19km (12 miles) offshore on VHF channels 16 or 72, or HF channels 2790 or 2760. Skippers do not need to give advance notice or have a prior visa. A visa can be granted on arrival. All crew members must have current passports, and U.S. Treasury Department restrictions apply to all U.S. citizens. Skippers will also need to register their vessel upon arrival. A special permit, or permiso especial de navegación, is issued. This permit costs around CUC$50 depending on the length of the vessel.

Cuba has a network of state-run, full-service marinas, many run by Náutica Marlin (www.nauticamarlin.com) and Gaviota (www.gaviota-grupo.com). Marinas that function as official points of entry and exit include those in Jardines del Rey, María la Gorda, Cayo Largo del Sur, Cienfuegos, and Santiago de Cuba, as well as the Marina Hemingway in Havana and Marina Dársena in Varadero.

Good resources for any sailor planning to visit Cuba are Simon Charles's The Cruising Guide to Cuba (Cruising Guide Publications, 1997) and Nigel Calder's Cuba: A Cruising Guide (Imray, Laurie, Norie & Wilson, 1999). While a little dated, both books are full of invaluable information, tips, and firsthand experiences aimed at cruising sailors.

Tips for Single Travelers

Cuba is generally extremely safe for travelers. Single travelers face no real specific threats or dangers. That said, don't throw common sense out the window. Single travelers -- and women in particular -- should still be careful when walking alone at night, both in Havana and in other more remote destinations.

I have never felt unsafe traveling on my own and there are few other countries in the world, like Cuba, where I would consider taking an illegal taxi with a strange man for hundreds of kilometers down back roads. Remember also that there are severe repercussions for Cubans who commit crimes against tourists.

Perhaps the biggest issue facing single travelers is that of jineterismo, which is a way of life in Cuba. In its most disturbing form, it has become synonymous with prostitution. Sex tourism and prostitution flourish in Cuba, and single travelers of both genders and any sexual persuasion will encounter constant offers for companionship, and usually more. In some cases, the terms are quite clear and a cash value is set. In others, the jinetera or jinetero is just looking for some restaurant meals, drinks, store-bought clothing, food, daily necessities, and sometimes even a good time. Many are looking to cement relationships with foreign tourists that could lead to marriage and a means of improving their standard of living on a long-term basis, either on the island or abroad.

Single women of all ages, in particular, should not be naive about declarations of undying love. You could just be the desperately dreamed about ticket out of the country. Remember that most Cubans are not free to leave Cuba. If you do fall in love, the Cuban government cannot prevent the Cuban from leaving after marrying a foreigner but they make it difficult to grant the correct exit papers (waits of 3 years are not uncommon).

Health & Safety

Staying Healthy

Despite ongoing economic troubles and shortages, Cuba's healthcare system remains one of the best in Latin America. The country takes extremely proactive steps toward preventive public health, and common tropical diseases like cholera and malaria are either uncommon or have been totally eradicated. You don't need any vaccinations to travel to Cuba, unless you are coming from a region with cholera or yellow fever, in which case the Cuban authorities will require proof of immunization.

Staying healthy on a trip to Cuba is predominantly a matter of common sense: Know your physical limits and don't overexert yourself in the ocean, on hikes, or in athletic activities. Cuba is a tropical country, so limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip and, thereafter, from 11am to 3pm. (It is often much hotter in Cuba btw. 2-4pm than at midday.)

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, also offers helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine website, www.istm.org.

Due to the U.S. embargo and other problems, common medicines are restricted or routinely unavailable in Cuba. It is wise to bring a full medical pack containing basic medicines. Travelers may also want to consider carrying ciprofloxacin if they are susceptible to stomach bugs that need treating with an antibiotic. Having said that, there is a well-established network of international health clinics in Cuba for emergencies, but it would still be better to bring what you can with you. All prescription medicines should be brought with you as well.

Regional Health Concerns

Tropical Illnesses -- Cuba does experience dengue outbreaks from time to time and you would be wise to keep your ear to the ground about this.

Dietary Red Flags -- Overall, while water is potable throughout most of Cuba, I recommend you stick primarily to bottled water, just to err on the side of safety. Every hotel and restaurant catering to travelers will carry bottled water. Ask for agua mineral natural (still) or agua mineral con gas (sparkling water).

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- There are no poisonous snakes in Cuba, which will put many minds at ease. In terms of biting bugs, your standard array of bees, wasps, mosquitoes, and sand fleas are present. Sand fleas are a slight nuisance at most beaches if there's no offshore breeze to clear them, particularly around sunrise and sunset. While there are also ticks and chiggers, so far Lyme disease is not considered a problem. Bring repellent and wear light, long-sleeved clothing.

Sun Exposure -- The tropical sun in Cuba is extremely fierce. The highest sun protection factor, hats, and protective clothing should be worn. Stay out of the sun between 11am and 3pm and drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor and apply it liberally. Remember that children need more protection than adults do.

Extreme Weather -- Hurricanes can occur between June and November in Cuba, but they do not arrive every year. The National Hurricane Center's website (www.nhc.noaa.gov) offers details on any storms in the Caribbean basin. It also has a hurricane preparedness section. In the event of a hurricane, Cuba has a very well-organized preparedness program. In the event of extreme danger, thousands can be evacuated, minimizing or avoiding deaths completely. Listen to all authorities in the event of an emergency.

During the rainy season, tropical storms with plenty of lightning are common. According to the Cuban Meteorological Institute, around 65 Cubans die each year from lightning strikes. During a storm, stay inside or in your vehicle. Move out of the sea and away from the beach and move away from high ground.

If You Get Sick

Cuba has a nationwide system of hospitals and clinics, as well as international clinics, and you should have no trouble finding prompt and competent medical care in the case of an emergency (The system is entirely free for Cubans, but foreigners are charged for services). This is actually a significant means of income for the country; however, fees for private medical care are relatively inexpensive by most Western standards. If you are hospitalized, you may find that support staff, like nurses, are lacking. You may need to have someone bring your food, clothes, and other necessities, and if you are traveling alone, this could mean informally paying a Cuban -- perhaps a casa particular owner you've met -- to help.

The country has a network of pharmacies, though due to the U.S. embargo, certain medicines are restricted or often unavailable. That said, it is always a good idea to carry a sufficient supply of any necessary prescription medicines you may need (packed in their original containers in your carry-on luggage), and a small first-aid kit with basic analgesic, antihistamine, and anti-diarrhea medications. You might also bring a copy of your prescriptions, with the generic name of the medication in case the pharmacist doesn't recognize the brand name. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses -- although opticians are available if necessary.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hotline.

A full list of international clinics, international drugstores, and opticians is available on the Servimed website at www.servimedcuba.com. The Clínica Central Cira Garcia, Calle 20 no. 4101 on the corner of Avenida 41, Playa, Havana (tel. 7/204-2811; www.cirag.cu), is the largest center in the country catering to foreigners. It is also possible to have medical treatments, cosmetic surgery, and undergo drug-addiction programs in Cuba for a fraction of the cost elsewhere. All the details are listed under the Servimed website. Servimed is part of the agency Cubanacán.

Asistur, Prado 208 between Calles Trocadero and Colón (tel. 7/866-4499; 7/866-8527 emergency number; www.asistur.cu) will help you with medical reports and the management of medical expenses if you end up in the hospital. Its addresses outside Havana are available on www.asistur.cu/mapa.html.

Called farmacias in Spanish, drugstores are relatively common throughout the country, although not necessarily well stocked. Those at hospitals and major clinics are often open 24 hours. Many hotels, particularly the larger ones, have either a small pharmacy or a basic medical clinic on-site. There's a 24-hour pharmacy at the international terminal of the José Martí International Airport (tel. 7/266-4105) in Havana.

Crime & Safety

Cuba is an extremely safe country. Street crime is relatively rare. With the recent upsurge in tourism, there have been some reports of pickpocketing and muggings in Old Havana and Centro Havana and around the gay hangouts in Vedado, but these are by far the exceptions to the rule. There's a strong security and police presence in most popular tourist destinations, and even outside the well-worn tourist routes, theft and assaults are quite uncommon. Having said that, news is heavily censored, so real crime statistics are unknown.

That said, you should still be careful and use common sense. Given the nature of Cuba's socialist system, a huge disparity in wealth exists between the average Cuban and any foreign visitor, even budget travelers. Don't flash ostentatious signs of wealth, and avoid getting too far off the beaten path, especially at night. Don't leave valuables unattended, and always use the safe in your hotel room or at the front desk.

Should you find yourself robbed, you will need a police report for insurance purposes. If you don't speak Spanish, go accompanied by a Spanish speaker; otherwise, you will make little headway.

The U.S. State Department (http://travel.state.gov) and the U.K. Foreign and Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk) issue updated advice for travelers.

Meddling in drugs and firearms brings stiff penalties. There are also prohibitions relating to blood products, obscene or pornographic literature, or any anti-state literature. Getting on the wrong side of the law is not advisable in any way.

Solo women travelers can go out at night with no fear for their safety, but it's always best to be careful. Walking home alone in small provincial towns is also quite safe.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women should be careful when walking alone at night, both in Havana and in other more remote destinations. However, walking home alone at night in smaller provincial towns should be quite safe. Cuba is a somewhat typical "macho" Latin American nation, with an open and extroverted sense of sexuality. Single women can expect their fair share of catcalls, whistles, and propositions known as piropo, especially in Havana and Santiago. The best advice is to ignore the unwanted attention, rather than try to come up with a witty or antagonistic rejoinder. Cuban men are pretty persistent, but they should soon get the message if you ignore them. If they don't, say "Déjeme en paz" (Leave me in peace). If it gets out of control, a swear word will usually work.

Women travelers should check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety; or the travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales, 2nd ed., 2004), which gives common-sense tips on safe travel.

Calendar of Events

Cuba has a packed schedule of festivals, congresses, and carnivals, and it seems like more are being held each year. If no specific contact information for a particular event is offered below, you can contact Paradiso (tel. 7/832-9538; www.paradiso.cu), the tour agency arm of the national arts and cultural organization ARTex. Paradiso organizes theme tours and escorted trips based around most of the major festivals and cultural events occurring throughout the year. You can also find pretty good information at www.cubatravel.cu and www.cubaabsolutely.com.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

February

International Book Fair, Havana. This large gathering of authors, publishers, and distributors is really only of interest to those who can read in Spanish. But if you can, this is an excellent Latin American book fair. For more information, visit www.cubaliteraria.cu. Second week of February.

Habanos Festival, Havana. Cigar smokers won't want to miss this annual celebration of the Cuban stogie. Run by the official state cigar company, Habanos, S.A., events include lectures, factory visits, tastings, and a gala dinner with an auction of rare cigars. For more information, visit www.habanos.com. Late February.

March

International Festival of "La Trova" Pepe Sánchez, Santiago de Cuba. If you like the sounds of traditional Cuban folk music, you'll want to hit this festival. Buena Vista Social Club member Eliades Ochoa organized a recent festival. Local Santiagueros are the heart of the festival, but singers and groups come from the entire island and throughout Latin America. Mid-March.

Celebration of Classic Cars, Havana. Recognizing the appeal of its huge fleet of classic American cars, Cuba has organized a weeklong celebration of these Detroit dinosaurs. Events include lectures, mechanical workshops, and parades. Owners from other countries are encouraged to bring their wheels to Cuba, and a caravan from Havana to another colonial city is usually orchestrated. Mid-March.

April

Havana Bienal 2012, Havana. This is one of the premier Latin American art shows, bringing together and exhibiting a wide range of contemporary Latin American artists who work in a broad range of mediums and styles. Havana's celebrated arts' fair, forum, and festival takes place across a variety of venues in the capital. Each bienal has a different theme. Occurring every 3 years. www.bienalhabana.cult.cu. Throughout April.

May

May Day parades, nationwide. If you're in Cuba on May Day, the traditional socialist celebration of Labor Day, you'll want to join (or at least watch) one of the many parades and public gatherings. The big daddy of them all takes place at the Plaza de la Revolución in Havana, where more than 100,000 people usually gather to listen to the president's annual May Day speech. May 1.

International Blue Marlin Tournament, Havana. The Marina Hemingway is the fitting site for this annual big-game fishing tournament. Call tel. 7/208-9920 ext. 223 or visit www.cubanacan.cu. Late May.

June

International "Old Man and the Sea" Billfish Tournament, Playas del Este, Havana. Marina Tarará is the host to this annual big-game fishing tournament. Call tel. 7/204-5088 or visit www.internationalhemingwaytournament.com for more information. Second week of June.

International Festival "Boleros de Oro," Havana. You'll be crying in your mojito (Cuban highball cocktail) . . . and loving it. Theaters, clubs, and concert halls across Havana will be filled with the sweet and melancholy sounds of bolero. Concerts are also staged in Santiago and other major cities. Late June.

July

Fiesta del Caribe/Fiesta del Fuego, Santiago de Cuba. This event features lectures, concerts, parades, and street fairs celebrating Afro-Caribbean culture. Speakers, guests, and musical groups from around the Caribbean are invited and each year the festival is dedicated to a Caribbean area or country. For more information, visit www.casadelcaribe.cult.cu; for reservations, contact Paradiso (tel. 22/62-0214; paradisostgo@scsc.artex.cu). July 3-9.

Carnival, Santiago de Cuba. The most "African" city in Cuba throws an excellent annual carnival. Street parties and concerts are everywhere, and the colonial city is flooded with masked revelers and long conga lines. Second half of July.

August

Carnival, Havana. Although not nearly as colorful or charismatic as Santiago's Carnival, there's still a good dose of public merriment, street parties, open-air music concerts, and the occasional parade. For more information, visit www.sancristobal.cult.cu. August 3-15.

Carnival, Matanzas. Although not as massive or elaborate as Carnival celebrations in Havana or Santiago, Matanzas still puts on a good party. The town has strong Afro-Cuban roots, and you'll experience this in body, flesh, food, and song throughout the week. Third week of August.

Symposia de Hip Hop Cubano, Havana. As Havana sizzles, hot Cuban hip hop music is performed and celebrated at various venues around Havana. The festival is based at the Casa de la Cultura de Plaza, Calzada and Calle 8, Vedado. For more information, contact the Cubana el Rap agency (tel. 7/832-3503). Third week of August.

September

Fiesta de la Virgen del Cobre, El Cobre, Santiago de Cuba. Cuba's national saint, the Virgin of Cobre, is revered by Roman Catholics and Santeros alike. There are pilgrimages to her altar in the small town of El Cobre, and celebrations in her honor nationwide. September 8.

October/November

Days of Cuban Culture, nationwide. In yet another show of Cuba's omnipresent anticolonial spirit, the period traditionally marking Christopher Columbus's stumbling upon the New World is given over to celebrations of Cuban and Afro-Cuban culture. October 10-20.

International Festival "Matamoros Son," Santiago de Cuba. The silky sounds of Cuban son fill the streets and theaters of Santiago. This is a great chance to hear a solid week of some wonderful music. www.cultstgo.cult.cu Third week of October.

Havana International Ballet Festival, Havana. Alicia Alonso, amazingly, is still going strong as the director of the Cuban National Ballet, still one of the most highly regarded troupes on the planet. Alicia uses this cachet to stage a wonderful biennial international festival in the Gran Teatro de La Habana. For information, call tel. 7/855-3084 or visit www.balletcuba.cult.cu. Occurring in even-numbered years. Late October-early November.

International Fishing Tournament, Jardines del Rey. This event was inaugurated in 2010 on Cayo Guillermo. Captured fish -- Blue marlin, sailfish, dolphin fish, and wahoo -- accrue points exchanged for silver prizes. For information, contact Jardines del Rey Marlin Branch at comercial@marlin.cco.tur.cu. Late October.

December

International Festival of New Latin American Film, Havana. This is one of the premier film festivals in Latin America. A packed schedule of films is shown in theaters over a period of 10 days throughout Havana. For information, visit www.habanafilmfestival.com. Early December.

International Jazz Festival, Havana. This festival is organized by none other than Chucho Valdés. The event usually draws a handful of top international bands and soloists to share the stage and billing with a strong stable of Cuba's best jazz talents. Visit www.festivaljazzplaza.icm.cu. Third week of December.

Las Parrandas, Remedios. This extravagant public carnival features late-night parades with ornate floats, costumed revelers, and a serious amount of fireworks. The big event occurs on December 24, but between the preparations, practice runs, and smaller imitations in neighboring towns, you'll be able to catch some of the excitement throughout most of late December. Late December.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before, and Cuba has been very forward-thinking in the recognition of the rights of people with disabilities. Still, overall, Cuba is not an easy country for them. While a few hotels are equipped for travelers with disabilities, these are far from the norm. Moreover, there's no private or public transportation service geared toward such travelers. The streets of Havana are rugged and crowded, and sidewalks, in particular, are often either totally absent or badly torn up. Provincial towns suffer from the same disrepairs. The Cuban people, however, are quite conscientious and embracing in their treatment of people with disabilities.

Asociación Cubana de Limitados Físicos-Motores (The Cuban Disabled Association), Calle 6 no. 106, between Avenidas 1 and 3, Miramar, Havana (tel. 7/209-3099; www.aclifim.sld.cu), is a Cuban organization charged with ensuring accessibility and lobbying for rights. The association is a member of the Disabled Peoples' International (DPI), and probably the best contact for travelers with disabilities in Cuba.

The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org) offers a wealth of travel resources for those with all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services.