442km (274 miles) S of Quito, 250km (155 miles) SE of Guayaquil, 254km (157 miles) S of Riobamba
Cuenca is Ecuador's third-largest city, but it feels much more like a charming old-world town, with cobblestone streets and a rich collection of colonial-era churches, plazas, and buildings. A good deal of the city's colonial architecture remains intact -- Cuenca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Before the Spanish arrived here, Cuenca was the second-largest city in the Inca empire (after Cusco). The foundations of former Inca palaces became foundations for the city's churches and government buildings. Amazingly, when the Incas conquered the area, in the late 1400s, the Cañari had already been living here for centuries. The Incas -- not unlike what the Spanish would eventually do -- used stones from the Cañari structures to build their palaces. Several excellent museums here are dedicated to the city's rich and varied past. The Museo del Banco Central sits right next to the Pumapungo archaeological site, which was an Inca palace. Not only can you see the artifacts on display in the museum, but you can also tour the ruins of the palace, as well as its accompanying botanical gardens. A few blocks away, the Todos Los Santos archaeological site literally symbolizes the three layers of history -- in one single area, you'll see structures built by Cañari, Incan, and Spanish settlers.
The mysterious Cañari (also spelled Kañari) people were the first known inhabitants of Cuenca, building a city here, around A.D. 500, called Guapondeleg. Their language and customs are largely a mystery, although several nearby villages do have names that end in -deleg, a common Cañari suffix. Around 1480 the Cañari were conquered by the Incas, who called the city Tomebamba, which is the current name of one of the rivers that runs through its center. Tomebamba was one of the preferred cities of Inca King Huayna Capac, who spent much time here. But the Inca reign was short-lived -- they were vanquished by Pizarro and the Spanish conquistadors in 1534. The Spanish city of Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos de Cuenca was founded here in 1557.
Outside Cuenca, there's also plenty to see and do. Ingapirca, for example, Ecuador's most impressive Incan ruins, are only 2 hours away; and Cajas National Park, which is full of scenic hiking trails and peaceful blue lagoons, is an hour north of the city.
