Hotels

Cusco, as the top tourist destination in Peru, where virtually every visitor seems to pass and stay a few days, has developed a remarkable cornucopia of lodgings, with hundreds of hotels, inns, and hostales of all stripes and prices. More continue to sprout, and few seem to close. Although the sheer number of offerings, particularly at the midrange and budget levels, means that you can pretty confidently land in Cusco without a reservation (outside of popular festivals like Inti Raymi and Fiestas Patrias at the end of June and July) and find a decent place to stay, many of the better and more popular hotels at all levels fill up throughout high season and even in shoulder months. In my opinion, it's better to firm up a reservation as soon as you know your dates of stay in Cusco.

Most of the city's most desirable accommodations are very central, within walking distance of the Plaza de Armas. The San Blas neighborhood is also within walking distance, although many hotels and hostales in that district involve very steep climbs up the hillside. (The upside is that guests are rewarded with some of the finest views in the city.) Some visitors will want to avoid hotels and inns too close to the Plaza de Armas; that zone's crowded bars and discos, many open until sunrise, tend to produce throngs of rambunctious and usually inebriated young people who stumble downstairs and howl at the moon or bellow at the people who just rejected them inside.

Hot water is an issue at many hotels, even those that swear they offer 24-hour hot showers. Many hotels and inns will arrange free airport transfers if you communicate your arrival information to them in advance.

Cusco possesses only a couple of truly excellent high-end hotels, and few good hotels at the next tier. In Cusco, an eternal backpackers' delight, there remains a glut of accommodations at the moderate and budget levels. However, several hostales have more atmosphere and are likely to provide a better overall experience than more expensive -- and more institutional -- hotels. Prices listed are rack rates for travel in high season; unless otherwise noted, rates do not include taxes or service charges. During the low season (Nov-Apr), prices often drop precipitously, even at midrange inns and backpacker hostels -- sometimes as much as 50% -- as the glut of hotels fights for a much-reduced number of visitors.

Several of the hostales reviewed are cozy, family-run places, but travelers looking for even greater contact with a Peruvian family might want to check out the very inexpensive inns belonging to the Asociación de Casas Familiares (Family Home Association), which operates a website (www.cusco.net/familyhouse) with listings of guesthouses with one or more rooms available for short- or long-term stays.

No Sleeping In -- Most Cusco hotels have annoyingly early checkout times -- often 9 or 9:30am -- due to the deluge of early morning flight arrivals to the city. At least in high season, hotels are very serious about your need to rise and shine, but you can always store your bags until later.

Family-Friendly Hotels

Hostal El Arqueólogo -- This quiet inn has a sunny garden where the kids can play and parents can relax and read. There's a very good French restaurant and a travel agency on the premises, so you won't have to troop all over town if you don't want to.

Hostal Los Áticos -- The very inexpensive apartments have separate bedrooms and living rooms with sofa beds, plus kitchenettes. It's perfect for a family of four on a budget.

Hostal Rumi Punku -- This family-owned hostal has a pretty, flower-filled colonial courtyard, gardens, and a historic Inca wall. There's plenty of room for the kids to run about behind the massive Inca portal.

Niños Hotel -- The very definition of a family-friendly hotel, this one was built to allow Cusco street kids to become part of a family. Profits go to care for another 125 needy children. The restored colonial house is one of the most charming and best-maintained small inns around. Reserve well in advance. Families should inquire about the newest addition and excellent-value apartments, at another location, for longer stays.