Nightlife

Most first-time visitors to Cusco are surprised to find that this Andean city with such a pervasive, gentle Amerindian influence and colonial atmosphere also has such a rollicking nightlife. It's not as diverse (or sophisticated) as Lima's, but the scene, tightly contained around the Plaza de Armas, is predominantly young and rowdy, a perfect diversion from the rigors of trekking and immersion in Inca and colonial history. I have heard countless young backpackers from countries across the globe exclaim, in universal MTV lingo and with pisco sour in hand, "Cusco rocks!" Some older visitors might find the late-night, spring break party atmosphere a little jarring in such a historic, stately place. But even for those with a lower-key night in mind, Cusco is especially entrancing in the early evening, as lights twinkle in the hills and the street lamps in the Plaza de Armas give a golden glow to the square.

Even though the city is inundated with foreigners during many months of the year, bars and discos aren't just gringolandia outposts. Locals (as well as Peruvians from other cities, principally Lima, and other South Americans) usually make up a pretty healthy percentage of the clientele. Clubs are in such close range of each other -- in the streets just off the Plaza de Armas and in San Blas (where the city's artsy bars and cafes proliferate) -- that virtually everyone seems to adopt a pub-crawl attitude, bopping from one bar or disco to the next, often reconvening with friends in the plaza before picking up a free drink ticket and free admission card from one of the many girls on the square handing them out.

For those who are saving their energy for the Inca Trail, there are less rowdy options, such as Andean music shows in restaurants, more sedate bars, and English-language movies virtually every night of the week.

Bars & Pubs

In high season, bars are often filled to the rafters with gringos hoisting cheap drinks and trading information on the Inca Trail or their latest jungle or rafting adventure (or just trying to pick up Peruvians or each other). Most bars are open from 11am or noon until 1 or 2am. Many have elongated or frequent happy hours offering half-price drinks, making it absurdly cheap to tie one on. (Travelers still adjusting to Cusco's altitude, though, should take it easy.)

One of the oldest pubs in town is Cross Keys, Portal Confiturías 233, Plaza de Armas, second floor (tel. 084/229-227), owned by the English honorary consul and owner of Manu Expeditions. It's especially popular with Brits who come to play darts or catch up on European soccer on satellite, and it's stuffed to the gills late at night. Pub grub is available, if you can get an order in. Los Perros, Tecsecocha 436 (tel. 084/241-447), is one of the coolest bars in Cusco, a funky lounge bar owned by an Australian-Peruvian couple. "The Dogs" has comfy sofas, good food and cocktails (including hot wine), and a hip soundtrack, including live jazz on Sunday and Monday nights. The bar attracts an international crowd that takes advantage of the book exchange and magazines, and plenty of folks quickly become regulars, making it their spot for dining as well as just hanging out and drinking. The Muse, Tandapata 684, San Blas (tel. 084/246-332), has a similar vibe, though it's a bit scruffier. A cool new wine bar, which also offers gourmet pizzas and munchies -- owned by the same people behind the excellent restaurant Cicciolina -- is Baco, Calle Ruinas 465 (tel. 084/242-808). Cicciolina itself has a very appealing wine and cocktail bar, and it's a good place to begin or end the evening. Fallen Angel, Plaza de Nazarenas 221 (tel. 084/258-184), bills itself as a restaurant but is so into its wildly campy, over-the-top look -- complete with glass tables topping porcelain bathtubs filled with brightly colored fish -- that it's hard to view it as anything but a largely gay nightclub. I ate dinner here, but I would have been more comfortable drinking rather than dining on a deep-red-and-black sofa with dozens of heart-shaped silk pillows. Sumaq Misky, Plateros 334, is considerably more sedate, a restaurant and lounge-bar with English movies shown daily.

American-owned Norton Rat's Tavern, Loreto 115 (tel. 084/246-204), next door to the La Compañía church, is a rough-and-tumble bar, the type of biker-friendly place that you might find in any American midwestern city. Nice balconies overlook the action below on the plaza. Paddy Flaherty's, Triunfo 124, Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/247-719), is an Irish pub serving Guinness on draft. It's cozy, relaxed, and often crowded, with expats catching up on "football" (soccer, of course) and rugby. Rosie O'Grady's, Santa Catalina Ancha 360 near the Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/247-935), is the other Irish tavern of note, with considerably fancier digs in which to down your (canned) Guinness. There's live music Thursday through Saturday, and several happy hours throughout the day.

Raw Fish: A Cure for What Ails You -- If you hang out so much and so late in Cusco that you wind up with a wicked hangover -- which is even more of a problem at an altitude of 3,300m (11,000 ft.) -- adopt the tried-and-true Andean method of reviving yourself. For once, the solution is not coca-leaf tea -- it's ceviche that seems to do the trick. Something about raw fish marinated in lime and chile makes for a nice slap in the face. When I lived in Ecuador (a country that fights with Peru not only over boundaries, but also over credit for having invented ceviche), late Sunday mornings at the cevichería were part of the weekly routine for pale-faced folks hiding behind sunglasses.

Live Music

Live music is a nearly constant feature of the Cusco nightlife scene, and it's not all itinerant bands of altiplano musicians in colorful vests and sandals playing woodwind instruments -- not by a long shot. Live music tends to begin around 11pm in most clubs, and happy hours are generally from 8 to 9 or 10pm.

Teatro Municipal, Mesón de la Estrella 149 (tel. 084/221-847), and particularly the long-running Centro Q'osqo de Arte Nativo, Av. El Sol 684 (tel. 084/227-901), schedule music and folkloric dance performances. Check with the tourist information office for a schedule of events.

You can catch traditional Peruvian bands with a beat at Ukuku's and Rosie O'Grady's, but for a traditional folklore music-and-dance show with panpipes and costumes -- well, ponchos, alpaca hats, and sandals, at a minimum -- you'll need to check out one of the restaurants featuring nightly entertainment. In addition to El Truco and La Retama, Tunupa, Portal Confiturías 233, second floor (tel. 084/252-936), has a good traditional music-and-dance show, as well as a panoramic view of the Plaza de Armas.

One of the coolest places in Cusco for nightly live music is Ukuku's, Plateros 316, second floor (tel. 084/227-867). The range of acts extends from bar rock to Afro-Peruvian, and the crowd comes to get a groove on, jamming the dance floor. Often the mix is half gringo, half Peruvian. If you're looking to pick up a Peruvian chico or chica, or at least practice your Spanish, it's one of the best spots in town. Ukuku's is open until the wee hours, and there's a room with computer terminals, 24-hour Internet access, and a pizza bar, as well as daily movies in the afternoon. Get your hands on a pass for free entrance so you don't get stuck paying a cover (although often it's not even necessary to have a pass; gringos often sail right in).

Kamikase, Plaza Regocijo 274, second floor (tel. 084/233-865), is the senior citizen of Cusqueño nightclubs, having been inaugurated before the tourist explosion, back in 1985. It's a cool and comfortable place, a two-level bar and a live music area with tables and funky decor. The music ranges from rock en español to reggae, and there are lots of locals -- occasionally, Peruvians even outnumber gringos. (Imagine that!) There are nightly drink specials on things such as caipirinhas. If you've imbibed one too many of those, you might want to take a breather before tackling the stairs to the street. I once had to carry a friend out (don't ask), and it was a real challenge. Tangible Myth, San Juan de Dios 260 (tel. 084/260-519), an upstairs bar in a slightly out-of-the-way location, is a good place to go for something different; it features live jazz and Latin American rhythms, as well as DJ and jam nights. Garabato Video Pub, Espaderos 135, third floor (tel. 084/620-336), is a bar/restaurant that features nightly movies on a large screen, a variety of live shows, and a dance floor and lounge. It's one of Cusco's one-stop-shopping outlets for nightlife.

Dance Clubs

A couple of Cusco's cooler late-night dance clubs have come and gone in the last few years, but a few of the old warhorses remain popular. A pretty young crowd, both backpackers and young Peruvians, is lured to the discos by all the free drink cards handed out on the Plaza de Armas. Mama Africa, Portal de Harinas 191, second floor (tel. 084/246-544), boasts sweaty charm and features occasional live music and DJs who spin an international dance mix of Latin, reggae, rock, and techno music for a mix of locals and gringos. The old club is now called Mama Amerika, Portal Belén 115, second floor (tel. 084/245-550). It's just as crowded as ever, and besides serving free and cheap drinks, it also has good munchies and a large screen showing videos.

Eko Club, Plateros 334, second floor (no phone), is one of Cusco's hottest dance clubs. The large dance floor throbs until dawn with a variety of rock, trance, and Euro-techno; for those who need a break, there's a laid-back lounge out back, good for a chair, a smoke, and a drink. Up Town, Suecia 302 (tel. 084/227-241), is Cusco's island resort disco on spring break. It offers free salsa, samba, and merengue dance classes (in English), and it's popular with locals. With two bars and a fleet of young girls enticing visitors with free drink cards, Extrem, Portal de Carnes 298 (tel. 084/240-901), swarms with one of Cusco's youngest and most frenetic crowds who come for happy hour and free drinks. Those who need to rest their hips can hang by the fireplace, catch a movie, or fortify themselves at the pizzeria.

Cafe Society

If you really just want to chill out and have a coffee, a glass of wine, or some dessert, drop into one of the city's comfortable cafes. The following are all good places for a light meal during the day, but at night they tend to take on some of that smoky Euro-cafe sheen, and travelers get all metaphysical about their treks through the Andes.

Café Ayllu, Portal de Carnes 208, Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/232-357), is a busy little place, drawing as many locals as gringos. It's known for its ponche de leche (a milky beverage, often served with a shot of pisco) and lenguas (a flaky pastry with manjar blanco crème in the middle). It also offers good breakfasts, sandwiches, and the mainstay, coffee. Trotamundos, Portal de Comercio 177, second floor (tel. 084/239-590), has an excellent balcony on the main square, facing the cathedral. It also has an open fireplace, which is perfect for cold evenings, and a convenient Internet cafe. It's a good spot for coffee and cakes, and a lively nighttime bar atmosphere. La Tertulia, Procuradores 44 (tel. 084/241-422), is more of a breakfast and lunch hangout, while Café Varayoc, Espaderos 142 (tel. 084/232-404), is a sophisticated place to read or get serious in the afternoon and at night. Varayoc serves excellent pastries and desserts, especially cheesecake. Pi Centro, Atoqsayk'uchi 559, in San Blas (no phone), is an American-owned cafe with board games, message boards, good coffee (including espresso, macchiato, and cappuccino), and sandwiches, snacks, and desserts -- as well as breakfast served all day long.

Away from the center, but well located if you're making the rounds of Manu travel operators, Manu Café is a chic rainforest-style cafe, very swish for Cusco; it's attached to Manu Nature Tours at Av. Pardo 1046 (tel. 084/252-721). It serves excellent coffee (including imported roasts from around the world) and light meals, and there are racks of foreign newspapers for your perusal.

Cinema

There aren't many traditional cinemas in central Cusco, but there are a number of places showing movies, mostly to entertain international visitors in need of a break from trekking and sightseeing. Probably the best selection of films, ranging from classic to art house to children's flicks, but mostly American, is found at The Film Movies & Lounge, Procuradores 389, second floor (tel. 084/962-5898); it's got a cute little bar, serves food and drinks, and has three screenings daily (S/2 or 70¢/35p). Other screens showing movies on a daily basis are Movie-Net Café, Santa Catalina Ancha 307 (no phone), Garabato Video Pub, Espaderos 135, third floor (tel. 084/620-336); Sumaq Misky, Plateros 334 (no phone); Sunset Movie Café, Tecsecocha 2 (tel. 084/807-434); and Ukuku's, Plateros 316 (tel. 084/227-867).

Theater

Cusco's newest offering is an excellent counterpoint to the town's ubiquitous bars, discos, and half-hearted tourist musical programs. Kusikay at the Garcilaso Theater, 117 Calle Unión, presents a superb music and theater program, "Chaska," that's equal parts Broadway theater, Cirque du Soleil, and modern dance. The engaging production, set in a beautifully renovated historic theater with superb sound and brilliant costumes and choreography, tells an Andean fable through song and dance, and the Spanish and Quechua dialogue is translated into English on an overhead screen, like in some opera houses. It's an excellent outing for families, though some very small children may be frightened by the costumes. For more information, visit www.kusikay.com, call tel. 084/243-528, or look for one of the brochures in hotels and around town. Tickets are $30 (£15); shows are Tuesday through Sunday at 7:30pm.