Fast Facts

Banks & Currency Exchange -- Most Peruvian and international banks with currency-exchange bureaus and ATMs are located along Av. El Sol. Money-changers, usually wearing colored smocks, patrol the main streets off the Plaza de Armas and Av. El Sol. Banks include Banco Santander Central Hispano, Av. El Sol 459; Banco de Crédito, Av. El Sol 189; and Banco Continental, Av. El Sol 366. The external ATMs nearest the Plaza de Armas are at Banco de Crédito, Av. El Sol 189; Banco del Sur, Av. El Sol 457; and Banco Latino, Av. El Sol 395. A couple are also located at the entrances to stores and restaurants on the Plaza de Armas and at the Huanchaq train station. Several small casas de cambio, with similar rates to banks, operate out of travel agencies and shops on Plaza de Armas and Av. El Sol.

Consulates -- The U.S. consulate is in the Binational Center (Instituto Cultural Peruana Norte Americano; ICPNA), Av. Tullumayo 125 (tel. 084/245-102, or cell 084/962-1369; consagentcuzco@terra.com.pe). The U.K. consulate is at Manu Expeditions, Urbanización Magisterial, G-5 Segunda Etap (tel. 084/239-974; bwalker@terra.com.pe). Both are open daily from 9am to noon and 3 to 5pm.

Dentists & Doctors -- In an emergency, contact the Tourist Medical Assistance (TMA), Heladeros 157 (tel. 084/260-101). It offers 24-hour emergency medical services, health information, and legal assistance.

Drugstores -- For locations, consult a phone book Yellow Pages under "Farmacias" and "Boticas."

Emergency -- For general emergencies and the police, call tel. 105. For the tourist police, call tel. 084/249-654. To report a fire, call tel. 103. In a medical emergency, go to Hospital EsSalud, Av. Anselmo Alvarez s/n (tel. 084/223-030), or contact Tourist Medical Assistance (tel. 084/260-101).

Hospitals -- English-speaking medical personnel are available at the following hospitals and clinics: Hospital EsSalud, Av. Anselmo Alvarez s/n (tel. 084/237-341); Clínica Pardo, Av. de la Cultura 710 (tel. 084/624-186); Hospital Antonio Loren, Plazoleta Belén s/n (tel. 084/226-511); Hospital Regional, Av. de la Cultura s/n (tel. 084/223-691); and Clínica Paredes, Lechugal 405 (tel. 084/225-265).

For yellow-fever vaccinations, try Hospital Antonio Loren on Tuesday or Hospital Regional on Saturday from 9am to 1pm.

Internet Access -- Internet cabinas are everywhere in the old section of Cusco, and many permit cheap oversees Internet-based (Web2Phone) calls for as little as S/1 (35¢/20p) per minute. Rates are generally S/1.50 (50¢/25p) per hour. Most keep very late hours, opening at 9am and staying open until 11pm or midnight. A few of the many cabinas around town include Explora, Arequipa 251; Speed X, Procuradores 50 and Tecsecocha 400; @Internet, Portal de Panes 123; and Cyber-Planet, Almagro 200. Several cafes and nightspots, including Trotamundos, Ukuku's, and Mama Africa, also have computers and Internet access, which is convenient if you got an e-mail address rather than a phone number from a guy or girl at the bar.

Language Schools -- For intensive Spanish courses, try Escuela Amauta, Suecia 480 (tel. 084/262-345; www.amautaspanish.com), or Academia Latinoamericana de Español, Av. El Sol 580 (tel. 084/243-364; www.latinoschools.com). Both schools are very popular with short- and long-term visitors to Cusco.

Laundry -- Four laundromats to try are Lavandería Louis, Choquechaca 264 (tel. 084/243-485); Easy Wash, Ruinas 457 (tel. 084/238-124); Lavandería Inka, Ruinas 493 (tel. 084/223-421) and Totem Wash, Saphy 726 (tel. 084/145-367).

Maps -- The main tourist information office gives out free maps, and, for most visitors, these should be sufficient. (Cusco is easy to manage and a joy to wander around and even get lost in.) More detailed maps, and maps of the Inca Trail and other hiking trails in the Cusco region, are available at bookstores.

Massage -- On virtually every street in the old town are young women advertising "massage, massage," often for as little as $10 (£5). Several legitimate spots are in town, some more professional than others, but one of the best massages I've had in Peru was from Laksmi at Cusco Massage Center, Portal de Carnes 260, 3rd floor (tel. 084/431-405 or 084/939-8575), where the rooms are nice and a 1-hour full-body massage will set you back S/60 ($20/£10).

Police -- The Policía Nacional de Turismo (National Tourism Police) has an English-speaking staff that is specifically trained to handle the needs of foreign visitors. The office is at Saphy 510 (tel. 084/249-654). You can also contact iPerú/INDECOPI (Servicio de Protección al Turista, or Tourist Protection Bureau), Portal Carrizos 250, Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/252-974); the staff is available daily from 8am to 8pm.

Post Office & Mail -- Cusco's main post office, Serpost, is at Av. El Sol 800 (tel. 084/224-212). A DHL/Western Union office is at Av. El Sol 627-A (tel. 084/244-167).

Telephone -- Cusco's area code is 084. The principal Telefónica del Perú office, for long-distance and international calls, is at Av. El Sol 382-6 (tel. 084/241-114). It's open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 10pm.

Tour Operators & Travel Agencies -- Cusco is swimming in travel agencies -- several hundred of all sizes, and many that offer almost the exact same packages compete for your attention. Only a few dozen have solid reputations, however, and many should be flat-out avoided. Do not contract any would-be travel agent on the street, and do not hand over money for a trip or package without visiting the outfit in its office. If you have any questions about an agency, particularly one not listed by name and recommended in this chapter, do not hesitate to inquire about its reputation in the Tourist Information Office.