Kusikuy

If you've resisted trying the Andean specialty that makes most foreigners recoil or at least raise an eyebrow, this could be the place to get adventurous. The restaurant's name in Quechua means "happy little guinea pig," so cuy al horno is, of course, the house dish. The rest of the menu focuses on other typical Peruvian dishes and adds stuff for gringos, such as pastas and basic chicken and meat dishes. It also serves a good-value lunch menu (which one day featured soup, chicken in red wine with rice, and pudding, plus juice). The cozy and good-looking loft-like space, on a hilly street above the Plaza de Armas, is warmly decorated with hardwood tables and couches and a mix of antiques and musical instruments from the Amazon. It's a cool, relaxed spot for a drink.

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