Reliving the Longest Day
Start your exploration at the seaside resort of Arromanches-les-Bains. In June 1944, this was a fishing port until the 50th British Division took it. A mammoth prefabricated port known as Winston was towed across the Channel and installed to supply the Allied forces. "Victory could not have been achieved without it," Eisenhower said. The wreckage of that artificial harbor is just off the beach, Plage du Débarquement. Musée du Débarquement, place du 6-Juin (tel. 02-31-22-34-31; www.normandy1944.com), in Arromanches, features maps, models, a cinema, photographs, and a diorama of the landing, all with English commentary. Admission is 6.50€ ($8.45) for adults and 4.50€ ($5.85) for students and children. From June to August, hours are daily 9am to 7pm; September Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm; April Monday to Saturday 9am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 6pm, Sunday 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 6pm; May Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm, Sunday 10am to 7pm; October and March daily 9:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5:30pm; November to December and February daily 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm. Closed December 24 to December 26 and 31, and January.
Moving along the coast, you'll arrive at Omaha Beach, where you can still see the war wreckage. "Hanging on by their toenails," the men of the 1st and 29th American Divisions occupied the beach that June day. The code name Omaha became famous; until then the beaches had been called St-Laurent, Vierville-sur-Mer, and Colleville. A monument commemorates the heroism of the invaders. Covering some 70 hectares (173 acres) at Omaha Beach, the Normandy American Cemetery (tel. 02-31-51-62-00; www.abmc.gov) is filled with crosses and Stars of David in Lasa marble. The remains of 9,386 American military were buried here on territory now owned by the United States, a gift from the French nation. The cemetery opened its new visitor center earlier this year, 63 years after D-day. The $30 million center houses film and photo exhibits, artifacts, and interactive displays. Admission is free. The cemetery is open daily from 9am to 5pm; the visitor center until 6pm (both closed Dec. 25 and Jan. 1).
Farther along the coast you'll see the jagged lime cliffs of the Pointe du Hoc. A cross honors a group of American Rangers, led by Lt. Col. James Rudder, who scaled the cliffs using hooks to get at the pillboxes (gun emplacements). The scars of war are more visible here than at any other point along the beach. Farther along the Cotentin Peninsula is Utah Beach, where the 4th U.S. Infantry Division landed at 6:30am. The landing force was nearly 3km (1 3/4 miles) south of its intended destination, but Nazi defenses were weak. By midday the infantry had completely cleared the beach. A U.S. monument commemorates their heroism.
Nearby, you can visit the hamlet of Ste-Mère-Eglise, which was virtually unknown outside of France before paratroopers dropped from the sky. In Ste-Mère-Eglise is Kilometer "0" on the Liberty Highway, marking the first of the milestones the American armies reached on their way to Metz and Bastogne.
