Attractions

Start your exploration at the seaside resort of Arromanches-les-Bains. In June 1944, this was a fishing port until the 50th British Division took it. A mammoth prefabricated port known as Winston was towed across the Channel and installed to supply the Allied forces. "Victory could not have been achieved without it," Eisenhower said. The wreckage of that artificial harbor is just off the beach, Plage du Débarquement. Musée du Débarquement, place du 6-Juin (tel. 02-31-22-34-31; www.normandy1944.com), in Arromanches, features maps, models, a cinema, photographs, and a diorama of the landing, all with English commentary. Admission is 6.50€ ($9.50) for adults and 4.50€ ($6.60) for students and children. From June to August, hours are daily 9am to 7pm; September Monday through Saturday 9am to 6pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm; October and March daily 9:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5:30pm; November to December and February daily 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm; April Monday through Saturday 9am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 6pm, Sunday 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 6pm; and May Monday through Saturday 9am to 7pm, Sunday 10am to 7pm. It's closed December 24 to 26, December 31, and the month of January.

Moving along the coast, you'll arrive at Omaha Beach, where you can still see the war wreckage. "Hanging on by their toenails," the men of the 1st and 29th American Divisions occupied the beach that June day. The code name Omaha became famous; until then the beaches had been called St-Laurent, Vierville-sur-Mer, and Colleville. A monument commemorates the heroism of the invaders. Covering some 70 hectares (173 acres) at Omaha Beach, the Normandy American Cemetery (tel. 02-31-51-62-00; www.abmc.gov) is filled with crosses and Stars of David in Lasa marble. The remains of 9,386 American military were buried here on territory now owned by the United States, a gift from the French nation. Admission is free. The cemetery is open daily 9am to 5pm, the visitor center until 6pm (both are closed Dec. 25 and Jan. 1).

Farther along the coast you'll see the jagged lime cliffs of the Pointe du Hoc. A cross honors a group of American Rangers, led by Lt. Col. James Rudder, who scaled the cliffs using hooks to get at the pillboxes (gun emplacements). The scars of war are more visible here than at any other point along the beach. Farther along the Cotentin Peninsula is Utah Beach, where the 4th U.S. Infantry Division landed at 6:30am. The landing force was nearly 3km (1 3/4 miles) south of its intended destination, but Nazi defenses were weak. By midday the infantry had completely cleared the beach. A U.S. monument commemorates their heroism.

Nearby, you can visit the hamlet of Ste-Mère-Eglise, which was virtually unknown outside of France before paratroopers dropped from the sky. In Ste-Mère-Eglise is Kilometer "0" on the Liberty Highway, marking the first of the milestones the American armies reached on their way to Metz and Bastogne.

Americans Return to Normandy -- Sixty-three years after the D-day landings, in 2007 the Normandy American Visitor Center opened at 14710 Colleville-sur-Mer (tel. 02-31-51-62-00; www.abmc.gov), in the vicinity of Caen. The $30-million center, dedicated to those heroes of World War II who liberated mainland France from the Nazis, tells the story of the 9,387 Americans buried on French soil. The center relates that dramatic story through narrative text, photos, films, interactive displays, and artifacts. Admission is free. The center is open April 15 through September 15 daily 9am to 6pm, and off season daily 9am to 5pm.

Reliving the Allied Invasion of Normandy

One of the most evocative ways to re-create the sensations that the combat troops felt just prior to their invasion of Normandy involves signing up for a waterborne tour. Maintained by Les Vedettes de Normandie, and entitled "Balades sur les plages du Débarquement," the tour offers prerecorded English-language commentary on a cassette player, live commentary from a French-language guide, and boats with a capacity of 200 sightseers at a time. Commentary focuses on the physicality of the Norman coastline; the region's construction, shipping, and fishing industries; and the historic events associated with the invasion of Normandy by Allied troops in 1941.

Between mid-April and mid-October, boats depart between one and three times a day, with a schedule that varies with the tides, the season, the day of the week, and French national holidays. All tours depart from the harborfront quays of the hamlet of Port-en-Bessin. Tours lasting 90 minutes each, and which cost 15€ ($22) per participant, focus on either Arromanches or Omaha beaches, Lasting 3 hours, tours at 23€ ($33) focus on Omaha Beach and the Pointe du Hoc. There's no discount for children. For information about departure times and reservations, contact Les Vedettes de Normandie, Ste. H.C., Bd. De Général de Gaulle Point de Cabourg, 14160 Dives-sur-Mer (tel. 02-31-43-86-12).