The Mansion on Turtle Creek

Frommer's Review

The Mansion remains one of Dallas's biggest splurges, though it must now compete with Stephan Pyles's new restaurant for the attentions of the glitterati. The big news at the Mansion is that Southwestern cuisine, which had run its high-end course, is no longer king; a new executive chef, John Tesar -- a Yankee, born and bred in New York -- has replaced all but the signature lobster tacos and tortilla soup. The restaurant is still high glam all the way, but it's gone more cosmopolitan. Fresh seafood flown in daily is a focus, as are fresh local ingredients and East Coast items Tesar surely can't live without, such as Hudson Valley foie gras, and poached Maine lobster on a bed of sweet corn pudding with corn-and-white-truffle foam. Meat lovers will be happy to find braised short ribs served with chipotle mac and cheese and chanterelles. This represents a big change in Big D, but one that people appear to be ready for. One thing that hasn't changed is that guests are still expected to be attired for a mansion: A jacket is required for men and a tie is recommended. Brunch remains a good-value and a low-key way to sample the restaurant.

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