Planning a Trip

Getting There

Qantas (tel. 13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com) serves Darwin daily from Perth, Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns, and Sydney, either direct or connecting through Alice Springs. Virgin Blue (tel. 13 67 89 in Australia; www.virginblue.com) flies direct to Darwin from Brisbane and Melbourne, with connections from other cities and regional centers. Jetstar (tel. 13 15 38 in Australia; www.jetstar.com.au) flies from Melbourne, Cairns, Brisbane, and Adelaide, and internationally from Singapore. Low-cost newcomer Tiger Airways (tel. 03/9335 3033; www.tigerairways.com.au) has direct daily flights from Melbourne, and also flies internationally from Singapore to Darwin. Airnorth (tel. 1800/627 474 in Australia, or 08/8920 4000; www.airnorth.com.au) flies from Broome and Kununurra in Western Australia.

Darwin Airport Shuttle Services (tel. 1800/358 945 in the Northern Territory, or 08/8981 5066) meets every flight and delivers to any hotel between the airport and city for A$10 (US$9/£4.50) one-way or A$18 (US$16/£8) round-trip. Bookings aren't essential. A cab to the city is around A$30 (US$27/£14). Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, and Thrifty have airport desks.

Greyhound Australia (tel. 1300/473 946 in Australia; www.greyhound.com.au) makes a daily coach run from Alice Springs. The trip takes around 22 hours, and the fare is A$301 (US$271/£135). Greyhound also has a daily service from Broome via Kununurra and Katherine; this trip takes around 26 hours and costs A$382 (US$344/£172). They also run from Cairns via Townsville, Mount Isa, and Tennant Creek, a 40-hour trip costing A$547 (US$492/£246).

The opening of the Alice Springs-Darwin railway line in 2004 gave the Top End its only rail link. Great Southern Railway's Ghan (tel. 13 21 47 in Australia; www.trainways.com.au) runs a twice-weekly round-trip between the two cities, leaving Alice on Mondays and Thursdays, arriving in Darwin about 24 hours later. The return trip leaves Darwin on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The adult one-way fare is A$355 (US$320/£160) for a "day-nighter" seat, A$705 (US$635/£317) for a sleeper, A$1,095 (US$986/£493) for a first-class sleeper, or more for the new Platinum Class, to be launched by the end of 2008. Platinum Cabins will be around twice the size of standard Gold Twin Cabins; each will have a double bed, en-suite bathroom, and 24-hour room service. Details of fares for Platinum Class were not available at press time.

Darwin is at the end of the Stuart Highway. Allow at least 2 long days, 3 to be comfortable, to drive from Alice. The nearest road from the east is the long and dull Barkly Highway, which connects with the Stuart Highway at Tennant Creek, 922km (572 miles) south. The nearest road from the west is Victoria Highway, which joins the Stuart Highway at Katherine, 314km (195 miles) to the south.

Visitor Information

Tourism Top End runs the official visitor center, 6 Bennett Street (at Smith Street), Darwin, NT 0800 (tel. 1300/138 886 in Australia or 08/8980 6000; www.tourismtopend.com.au). There is also a visitor center in the Smith Street Mall (tel. 08/8942 1856). They can make bookings and provide you with maps, national park notes, and information on Darwin and other regions throughout the Northern Territory, including Arnhemland, Katherine, and Kakadu and Litchfield national parks.

City Layout

The city heart is the Smith Street pedestrian mall. One street over is the Mitchell Street Tourist Precinct, with backpacker lodges, cheap eateries, and souvenir stores. Two streets away is the harborfront Esplanade. In the old Wharf Precinct, a walk from town, are a couple of tourist attractions, a jetty popular with fishermen, and a working dock. Cullen Bay Marina is a hub for restaurants, cafes, and expensive boats; it's about a 25-minute walk northwest of town. Northwest of town is Fannie Bay, where you'll find the Botanic Gardens, the sailing club, a golf course, a museum and art gallery, and the casino.

Getting Around

For car and four-wheel-drive rentals, call Avis (tel. 08/8945 0662), Budget (tel. 08/8945 2011), EuropCar (tel. 08/8941 0300), Hertz (tel. 08/8945 0999), or Thrifty (tel. 08/8924 2480).

By Bus -- Darwinbus (tel. 08/8924 7666) is the local bus company. A A$2 (US$1.80/UK90p) adult or A50¢ (US45¢/UK23p) child bus fare gives unlimited travel for 3 hours. A Show&Go ticket gives unlimited bus travel for 1 day for A$5 (US$4.50/£2.25) or for a week (valid Mon-Sun) for A$15 (US$14/£6.75). The city terminus is on Harry Chan Place (off Smith St., near State Sq.). Get timetables there, or from the Tourism Top End visitor center.

By Taxi -- Darwin Radio Taxis (tel. 13 10 08) is the main cab company. Taxi stands are at the Knuckey Street and Bennett Street ends of Smith Street Mall.

Tours of Darwin

The Tour Tub bus (tel. 08/8985 6322) does a loop of 10 city attractions and major hotels between 9am and 4pm daily. Hop on and off all day for A$30 (US$27/£14) for adults, A$20 (US$18/£9) for children 4 to 12 (including entry fee to the World War II oil storage tunnels). It departs the Knuckey Street end of Smith Street Mall, opposite Woolworths, every hour.

Darwin Day Tours (tel. 1300/721 365 in Australia, or 08/8923 6523) has a range of sightseeing tours.