"The dawn breaks orange . . . The peacock sings . . . And Delhi still swings . . ." go the words to an uplifting dance track by Delhi's top ethno-electronic-music outfit, the MIDIval PunditZ. While we're still not convinced that this isn't slightly tongue-in-cheek, and despite the capital's reputation for early nights and boring diplomatic gatherings, you certainly won't want for a buzz these days. The trick is to sniff out the latest fad or craze before it's died out; your best bet -- and where you'll find the most extensive news about current events and entertainment -- is the twice-monthly Time Out New Delhi. And, if contemporary music is your thing, do try to catch the PunditZ live.
Music, Dance & Film -- Dances of India is an organization that regularly stages classical and folk dance performances, showcasing styles from around the subcontinent; call tel. 011/2358-5357 to find out what events are lined up. Call the India Habitat Centre (Lodhi Rd.; tel. 011/2468-2222) for information on theater, film festivals, and other cultural events held almost nightly. Nearby is India International Centre (tel. 011/2461-9431), which also hosts a variety of cultural performances and film screenings (mostly in the cooler months of the year), as does Poorva Sanskritik Kendra (14 District Centre, Laxmi Nagar; tel. 011/4244-8840). Entry to most events is free.
Bars & Pubs -- Cultural attractions aside, Delhi is in many ways most interesting at nighttime, when the "conspicuous consumers" to whom William Dalrymple refers in his City of Djinns head out and schmooze. Of course, unless they're in hotels, most restaurants and bars (many of which double as both) close around midnight.
Fancying itself Delhi's most exclusive pub is Dublin (tel. 011/2611-2233), although with its Irish theme, we can't imagine why. It does have a dance floor, however, as well as the largest selection of single malts in Delhi; on Friday and Saturday regular DJs spin popular commercial tracks -- a mix of fast-paced rhythms from hip-hop to '90s rock and even London bhangra. For a more genteel and upmarket atmosphere, head to Rick's at the Taj Mahal Hotel (1 Mansingh Rd.; tel. 011/2302-6162), where you can sip some of the best cocktails in Delhi while watching the city's fashionable set unwind. A DJ (Wed-Sat) plays retro music from 10:30pm onwards. Far more formal, and perhaps a tad demure, is Club Bar (The Oberoi, Dr. Zakir Hussain Marg; tel. 011/2436-3030); relaxed and spacious, and good for cigar smokers, it's the sort of place where you find yourself discussing business deals. 1911 Bar in The Imperial (tel. 011/2334-1234), with its horseshoe-shaped bar, quilted leather Montana chairs, vintage portraits, and stained-glass roof, is an elegant place to enjoy an evening drink; despite the TV stuck on sports channels, it attracts a discriminating clientele that includes expats, celebs, and political bigwigs. All the rage among the jet-set crowd is Aura, the sublime vodka bar at the Claridges (tel. 011/2301-0211); schmoozing on the black leather armchairs here is greatly enhanced by the 68 varieties of vodka on offer.
Beyond the hotels, another popular watering hole and lounge is Q'Ba (E 42-43, Inner Circle, Connaught Place; tel. 011/5151-2888; www.qba.co.in). It features a funky island bar on the lower level and dining upstairs -- a good place to hang out with travel companions and swap stories; there are two terraces from which to admire the mayhem down below. After 8:30pm the DJ plays commercial music. The downstairs bar at Turquoise Cottage (81/3 Adhchini, Sri Aurobindo Marg; tel. 011/2685-396), is the place for rock music, and fills up with a vibrant mix of westerners and locals Wednesdays through Saturdays. The Western-obsessed decor (one nook is dedicated to vintage cars, another is filled with Rolling Stones album covers, another celebrates saddles) may feel out of place this far east, but the young crowd of habitual smokers doesn't seem to mind. If you prefer a venue that looks and feels a bit more local (we're talking Khajuraho-inspired erotic sculptures and wall-mounted Harappan seals), head to Urban Pind (N-4, N Block Market, Greater Kailash I; tel. 011/3251-4646; www.urbanpind.com); you can sip Masala Martinis or cocktails infused with Indian spices while tapping your feet to commercial tracks spun by resident DJ Praveen. The crowd is as eclectic as the decor; although it's a rather sedate eatery by day, there's dance floor action at night, with danceable tunes from the likes of Costa Del House. Another decent option for a night of unwinding is Baci Bar (23 Sundar Nagar Market; tel. 011/4150-7445), which is also an authentic Italian restaurant.
Nightclubs -- Delhi has its fair share of nightclubs, though most play standard commercial music. Unfortunately, stand-alone restaurants, bars and clubs within Delhi proper must close at midnight; this is why you'll notice so much late night carousing at hotels, and why there's such a major after-hours exodus to Noida and Gurgaon (suburbs which are actually in different states), especially on weekends.
There's also no getting around the megalithic popularity of The Park's ultra-chic and trendy Agni (tel. 011/2374-3000) the popular (and undeniably sexy) bar -- with a small dance floor for bhangra swingers -- designed by London's Conran & Partners; it's worth popping into, not least for its funky decor, beanbags, and leather sofas, and nifty bar staff in designer gear by Rohit Bal. On weekends there's sure to be a crowd you won't be able to take your eyes off, although things shut down around 1am. If you want to party into the wee hours (5am), make your way to Elevate (Fifth Floor, Centre Stage Mall, Noida; tel. 0120/436-4611 or 99-6795-9789), a spacious three-story club that plays a variety of sounds including commercial, R&B, and electronic music, with some trance/psychedelic stuff thrown in for good measure. Strictly for those who need to feel the music pulsate through their bodies, the club regularly has an international DJ playing the latest world trends; Paul Oakenfold stirred the crowd into a frenzy here in May 2007, hinting at Delhi's evolving love of a good time. With its black walls and pink lights, Decibel (Hotel Samrat, Kautilya Marg; tel. 011/2611-0606) in Chanakyapuri is a trendy nightclub with a large dance floor that draws a jet-setting crowd. The in-house DJ spins commercial music while night owls sip fine cocktails and dance away the calories. And then, of course, there's Delhi's very own pumping house club, Ministry of Sound (tel. 98-7380-0060) at The Pyramid in Vasant Kunj, although city authorities might have closed it down -- again -- by the time you're in town.
Note: Bars and nightclubs in Delhi can be extremely popular for months, or even years, and then suddenly and inexplicably the crowds stop coming. All the establishments listed above have been popular for a significant period of time and are unlikely to turn into has-beens by the time you get there, but fads and trends guide people's movements, so it's best to ask around once you're there, consult Time Out, and also check out the score at www.delhievents.com.
