The Delhi shopping experience is every bit as exciting as that found in Mumbai and Jaipur, but the sprawling size of the city makes it difficult to cover all in one day -- best to concentrate on one area at a time. And if this is your first port of call, try not to load your luggage too early with stuff to take home. It is a good idea, however, to pop into Dilli Haat to get a perspective of the range of regional arts and crafts and approximate prices. If something here really captures your heart, by all means get it and have it shipped home, for it may not be available when you return. Note that most shops (and markets) are open from 10am to 7pm and are closed on Sunday, unless mentioned otherwise. Besides the areas described below, you can spend an entire day covering the old city of Shahjahanabad. Finally, keep in mind that the recommended shops that follow are only a fraction of what's out there; if you know what you're looking for, it's best to inquire at both your hotel and the Janpath tourist office for alternatives.
Connaught Place
If you want to get an idea of what lies ahead on your travels, you should definitely visit Central Cottage Industries Emporium on Janpath (across from The Imperial hotel, near Connaught Place), a huge, multistory complex brimming with quality goods from Pashminas to bronzes, from all over India (tel. 011/2335-8863). Tip: If you've hired a car and driver for the day, note that this is the only spot in the area you will find parking, so it's best to visit here first and have the car wait for you while you browse the rest of Connaught Place. You can then visit a few of the 22 State Government Emporiums that line Baba Kharak Singh Marg; some recommended options are Himachal for blankets and shawls in particular (tel. 011/2336-3087); Tamil Nadu ("Poompuhar") for sandalwood objects (tel. 011/2336-3913); Uttar Pradesh ("Gangotri") for the stone-inlay work made famous by the Taj, as well as copper/brasswork and leather goods (tel. 011/2336-4723); Kashmir Emporium for superb carpets; and Orissa (Utkalika) for fabrics and traditional paintings (the latter off the beaten tourist track). If you're not moving on to Rajasthan, don't miss visiting both this and Gurjari Emporium. Both Cottage Industries Emporium and State Government Emporiums have fixed prices, so you are spared the incessant haggling you'll have to master elsewhere. Diagonally opposite Cottage Industries, also on Janpath, is the Tibetan Market, where it is said you will pick up a better selection of items (from antique locks to silver jewelry) at better prices than you will anywhere in Tibet. Having walked its length, you will find yourself in Connaught Place, the retail heart of imperial Delhi, where hundreds of outlets vie for your rupees. Visit Benaras Silk House for saris and the most beautiful fabrics on earth (N-13 Connaught Place, opposite Scindia House; tel. 011/2331-4751). Then go to Handloom House to compare selection and prices (9A Connaught Place; tel. 011/2332-3057). Head to Jain Super Store (172 Palika Bazaar, Gate 6; tel. 011/2332-1031; www.jainperfumers.com) for perfumes, incense, and teas; it also has a store at 17 M. M. Janpath called Arihant Fragrances, which sells lovely silver jewelry alongside fabulous scented products. Stop at Shaw Brothers (Shop 8, Palika Bazaar; tel. 011/2332-9080 or 011/2331-6573) for pure, high-quality Kashmiri shawls and elegant Pashminas -- even if you don't buy, this is pretty much a must-see. For beautiful (and expensive) gemstones, gold jewelry, and bridal wear, try Bholanath (L-23 Connaught Circus) or nearby Kapur di Hatti (L-16), which also has Kundan jewelry.
Khan Market & Sunder Nagar Market
Khan Market is good for books, music, and DVDs. Sunder Nagar is considered the best market to trawl for authentic antiques, interesting secondhand goods, and unique artworks; it has a few good permanent stalls such as Natesans (13 Sunder Nagar Market; tel. 011/2435-9320), renowned for the quality of its artifacts and antiques (though these can be pricey). Browse Anokhi (32 Khan Market; tel. 011/2460-3423), patronized by expats and locals alike for its highly fashionable blend of Western- and Eastern-style clothing (see "Jaipur: Shopping" for full review of the Anokhi headquarters), or its store at 9 Khan Market for lovely furnishings.
South Delhi
Seek out Ravissant (tel. 011/2683-7278; www.cest-ravissant.com) in New Friends Colony for beautiful contemporary pewter and silver houseware items (or visit the outlet conveniently located in The Oberoi hotel lobby). Santushti Shopping Complex is an upscale collection of shops (predominantly boutiques) housed in landscaped gardens 15 minutes from the center. Visit Lotus Eaters (tel. 011/2688-2264) to pick up a pretty jewelry item.
Even farther south (convenient to visit after viewing Qutb Minar) is trendy Hauz Khas Village, set against a 12th-century backdrop; and, slightly southeast (40 min. from the center), Greater Kailash -- the latter shopping area (divided into M and N blocks) is the least atmospheric but has a large variety of shops in an upmarket atmosphere. Hauz Khas is the place to seek out designer boutique outlets, like Ritu Kumar (E-4; tel. 011/2656-8986 or -8097). Or head straight for Ogaan (H-2 Hauz Khas; tel. 011/2696-7595) -- the formalwear version of Anokhi, it's perfect for unusual Indo-West and contemporary Indian designer clothing (it stocks a number of well-known labels). Hauz Khas also has a number of fine restaurants. Tandon's (4 Aurobindo Place; tel. 011/2696-6552) has high-quality Lucknow "Chikan" embroidered linen and clothing. For wonderful tailor-made garments, make your way to Kavita & Vanita Sawhney (B-78 Greater Kailash I; tel. 011/2646-4633). The most famous shop in N Block is Fabindia, specializing in stylish ethnic Indian homewear and clothing for all ages.
