Delhi's sprawling suburbs keep expanding southward, impervious of the remnants of the ancient cities they surround. Die-hard historians may feel impelled to visit the ruins of Siri (the second city), Tughlaqabad (the third) and Jahanpanah (the fourth), but the principal attraction here is the Qutb Complex, built in the area that comprised the first city of Delhi. Located in Mehrauli Archaeological Park, it has a number of historic sites centered around the Dargah of Qutb Sahib, as well as a number of cafes and boutiques frequented by Delhi's well-heeled.
Nearby is Hauz Khas on the Delhi-Mehrauli road. Once a village, Haus Khas is now a gentrified upmarket suburb known more for its glossy boutiques and restaurants than for its 14th-century reservoir and ruins, including the tomb of Feroze Shah Tughlaq (Rs 100/$2.30). Rail enthusiasts shouldn't miss The National Railway Museum (tel. 011/2688-1816; Tues-Sun 9:30am-1:30pm and 2:30-5pm; closes at 7pm Apr-Sept; Rs 10/25¢), said to be one of the world's most impressive -- hardly surprising given India's huge network. It is situated southwest of Lodi Gardens, on Chanakyapuri. If you've traveled this far south, you may want to head a little east to the Bahá'i House of Worship, or "Lotus Temple," where 27 huge and beautiful marble "petals" create the lotus-shaped dome. Often likened to a mini-version of the Sydney Opera House, this contemporary temple invites people of all faiths for worship. It's sometimes described as a modern counterpoint to the Taj, but unlike the Taj, it's more photogenic than it appears in real life, with a lack of detailing and a drab interior (Bahapur, Kalkaji; tel. 011/2644-4029; Tues-Sun: 9am-7pm Apr-Oct, 9:30am-5:30pm Nov-Mar).
