Karim Hotel

In the heart of Old Delhi, not far from the Jama Masjid, Old Delhis most famous eatery dates from 1913, when it was opened by a chef who claimed to have hailed from a family of royal cooks who served, among other guests, the great Mughal emperor Akbar. Don't be put off by the informal setting; the food is very good. It's primarily a meat-eaters' hangout, with the real princely treats being the mutton burra kebabs. The butter-cooked chicken (makhani murgh) is also wonderful, as is the badshahi badam pasanda, mutton cooked with blended almonds and yogurt and fragrant spices. If you're really adventurous, you can also sample exotic fare such as spiced goat feet, or the advance-order bakra feast -- lamb stuffed with chicken, rice, eggs, and dried fruit, a meal made for a dozen people (about Rs 5,500). No doubt about it: This is the real deal.

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