Naivedyam

Delhi has five branches of this fantastic, cramped, and always busy little South Indian restaurant; the one in Hauz Khas (marked by the Nandi statue facing the front entrance) is the original, atmospherically decorated with mirror-framed Tanjore paintings and pillars that have been beautifully carved and embossed. Start your meal with a spicy peppery lentil soup, called rasam, which is drunk as a curative and is something of an acquired taste. Thalis, or multicourse platters, are served at mealtime, and are a good way to sample a variety of tastes from the south. Alternatively, you can choose from a whole range of dosas (rice and lentil flour pancake; ask the waiter for some advice regarding which to order), always served with chutney (made from ground coconut and green chilies, sometimes with mint), and sambar, a souplike concoction of lentils, tamarind, and vegetables. Tea and coffee are served in the style typical of the south; no alcohol is served.

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