Introduction to Delphi

178km (110 miles) NW of Athens

Delphi is the big enchilada of Greek sites. Even more than Olympia, this place has everything: a long and glorious history, spectacular ancient remains, a superb museum, and a heartbreakingly beautiful location on the slopes of Mount Parnassus. Look up and you see the cliffs and crags of Parnassus; look down, and Greece's most beautiful plain of olive trees stretches as far as your eyes can see, toward the town of Itea on the Gulf of Corinth.

Delphi is especially magical in the spring, when there are both snow and wildflowers on Parnassus -- and fewer tourists tramping around the site than in summer. But whenever you visit, you'll understand why the ancient Greeks believed that Delphi was the center of the world, the spot Apollo chose as the home of his most famous oracle. The Sanctuary of Apollo is the main attraction here, although the smaller Sanctuary of Athena has Delphi's most photographed attraction, the mysterious round tholos .

As for the modern village of Delphi, the main drag is usually clogged with herds of tour groups migrating from hotel to restaurant to the generally indifferent souvenir shops; it's the side streets, clinging to the slopes of Parnassus, that give a sense of village life.

A Special Moment -- If you are an early riser, sniff deeply, follow your nose, and take a sunrise tour of Delphi's bakeries as the first loaves are coming out of the ovens. Then, climb up to the Sikelanos Museum and enjoy some fresh bread and the view over the ancient site in the early morning light. Bliss.