Hotels

The best place to stay is the Norbulingka Institute-run Chonor House, not least for its dining. If you have a yearning to live in a forest surrounded by nature's bounty, the other top option is Glenmoor Cottages. (Both options are reviewed here.)

For a real budget option, consider peaceful Cheryton Cottage (Jogibara Rd.; tel. 01892/22-1993; tcheryl_89@yahoo.com), where Alan and Cheryl Templeton rent out four rooms with attached bathrooms and hot showers (Rs 450/$11/£5.60 single; Rs 550/$13/£6.80 double). The rooms are spartan 1970s throwbacks dressed in outrageous colors (of the four units, the aptly named "Blue" and "Pink" have views). Above the guesthouse is an entire apartment (one double bedroom with attached bathroom, living room with television, equipped kitchenette including gas range, and balcony). The rate for the apartment is Rs 1,500 ($37/£19) per night; or Rs 15,000 ($366/£185) single and Rs 21,000 ($512/£259) double for the month. Electricity and gas are additional, based on usage. The owners have also started the first winery in the Kangra district, called Wine Oaks, where you can sample their grandfather's Italian recipes for wines made from grapes, ginger, and black currants.

Away from the noise of the central square and yet only a stone's throw from it, the very likable Pema Thang guesthouse has spotless rooms with wood floors, an excellent restaurant, and a friendly, helpful manager, Mr. Tseten Dorjee. Ask for a room on one of the higher floors, though all overlook the valley (tel. 01892/22-1871; doubles Rs 660-Rs 990/$16-$24/£8.15-£12).

For those who prefer a more secluded stay, head out to Dharamkot, a small borough just outside McLeod Ganj with stupendous views of the Dhauladhar mountains and Kangra Valley. Dev Cottages (tel. 01892/22-1558) has pleasant rooms with large windows, balconies, and lovely views, for Rs 1,500 ($37/£19). Another option far from town but worth considering is Norling Guesthouse (at the Norbulingka Institute), which has six charming rooms from Rs 1,150 ($28/£14). All the recommendations are for places in McLeod Ganj; if McLeod Ganj is full, the two best options in Dharamsala are White Haven Estate (reviewed below) and Grace Hotel, a 200-year-old haveli converted into a heritage hotel. Although its approach isn't too inspiring (through the congested clutter of the main street into a narrow over-concretized lane), the views of the valley from the other side are splendid. The house is built in the traditional hill style, with narrow galleries, 200-year-old deodar tree pillars, alcoves, balconies and terraces, wooden latticed screens and doors, antique brass locks, and some beautiful pieces of furniture -- it may not be very polished or sophisticated but it certainly is atmospheric (558 Old Chari Rd., Kotwali Bazaar, Dharamsala; tel. 01892/22-3265; www.welcomheritagegracehotel.com; Rs 2,800/$68/£35 double).

The Dalai Lama Speaks Here & Richard Gere Slept There

Tenzin, from Nick's Italian Kitchen, is one of the best people to speak to if you're eager to organize an audience with His Holiness. A proud and committed follower of the Dalai Lama, he also organizes occasional talks on Tibet and Buddhism at the restaurant, and is overflowing with personal theories about the local community and the diplomatic situation with the Chinese government. Staunch Richard Gere fans traveling on a limited budget can try to get the Gere Suite of the Kunga Guesthouse upstairs from the restaurant; Richard was the first guest when it opened on January 24, 1996.

Nearby

Besides the romantic Taragarh Palace (reviewed below), the heritage hotel near Palampur (14km/8 2/3 miles away), the delightful Country Cottage (Chandpur Tea Estate; tel. 01894/23-0647; www.countrycottageindia.com; cottages Rs 1,500-2,500/$37-$61/£19-£31) has only five stone cottages, set in the cantonment area of Palampur amid a small tea plantation. It's a simple and unpretentious family-run enterprise, at press time still smelling faintly of fresh paint and experiencing a few teething problems but none too exasperating to handle, and very good value.