As with many of the towns popular with tourists, McLeod Ganj is disproportionately restaurant-heavy. The best by far is Chonor House, which specializes in Tibetan cuisine . Other Tibetan food restaurants worth highlighting are Green Restaurant (Bhagsunag Rd.; tel. 01892/22-1200), which uses only organic produce; and Namgyal Café (at the Tsuglakhang or Main temple; tel. 01892/24-6402), which serves what might be called Tibetan fusion. Try the tofu stroganoff or tsampa (roasted flour) crepes; if you're not feeling too experimental, stick to noodles, momos, or the brilliant thin-crust pizzas.
While Tibetan fare would appear to be the way to go, you'll pretty much find something for everyone -- from falafels to focaccia, momos (dumplings) to tempura. At least four German bakeries and as many pizzerias also cater to the large number of foreigners who come to McLeod Ganj. There's even a nifty grub-'n'-pub style restaurant called Mc'Llo (at the top of Temple Rd.; tel. 01892/22-1280), an extremely popular hangout for travelers that prides itself on having once entertained Pierce Brosnan (celebrity culture having few geographical boundaries). Another informal and extremely popular hangout is Om restaurant, located just off Nowrojee Road, which serves a safe and Indianized version of world cuisine. If you have a yen for Japanese, Lung Ta, an intimate diner with meat-free dishes from the land of the rising sun, includes a small floor-seating area with traditional low tables (Jogibara Rd.; tel. 01892/22-0689). Daily set meals feature a curious mix of Japanese vegetarian dishes; on a typical day, you may be offered glass noodle (or other) salad, miso soup, and rice (on Tues and Fri rice is replaced with a healthy number of assorted sushi rolls), all meals a real steal at under Rs 100 ($2.45/£1.25).
For Italian, head for Nick's Italian Kitchen (in the Kunga Guesthouse, Bhagsu Rd., McLeod Ganj; tel. 01892/22-1180), which is something of a local institution. Tenzin, whose father worked as security officer for the Dalai Lama from the age of 18, is -- like His Holiness -- a proponent of vegetarianism, and his kitchen is therefore strictly non-meat. Gnocchi, cannelloni, and ravioli are prepared fresh every morning. The eggplant, spinach, and cheese lasagnas are star attractions, as is the aptly named "Pizza Everything." Nick's has the edge, but if you're passing The Pizzeria (past Tushita into Dharamkot village -- ask anyone), you'll find simple, tasty pizzas prepared by a local gaddi family, apparently taught how to make wood-fire pizzas by a visiting Italian.
At the immaculate Norbulingka Institute, Norling Café (tel. 01892/24-6402 or -6405; www.norbulingka.org) is great for healthy, wholesome dishes that can be taken on the patio, where you're likely to spot paradise flycatchers darting among the lush vegetation. You can also pre-order meals through the guesthouse. If it's cold outside, sit in the cozy dining room, adorned with paintings by the institute's artists.
A Taste of Tibet
Confused by what's on offer in the Tibetan restaurants of the Indian Himalayan region? Here's a guide: Gyathuk is a traditional egg noodle soup, typically prepared with tofu and black-and-white mushrooms. Thenthuk is a broth made with handmade noodles. Pishi is another name for wontons, often served in a vegetable broth with Tibetan tofu. You'll find Tibetan tofu and dumplings swimming in your mothuk, another traditional Tibetan broth. Shabaklab or shabalay is the Tibetan version of a pie, typically accompanied by broth. Momos are Tibetan dumplings, filled with cheese, vegetables, or meat. Shabri are seasoned meat or vegetable balls. Bobi are Tibetan spring rolls, filled with glass noodles, tofu, and mixed vegetables. Most Tibetan dishes can be served with vegetables, chicken, mutton, or even pork. Bod-jha is the staple Tibetan tea, copious quantities of which are consumed by Tibetans everywhere, and by almost no one else. It tastes nothing like any tea you've ever had -- besides tea and milk, it contains salt and butter.
