Side Trips

A Side Trip to the Spreewald & Sorb Country

For a fascinating side trip, head about an hour's drive north of Dresden to the history-rich Sorb country of Spreewald (Forest of the Spree), which has nearly 260 sq. km (101 sq. miles) of woodland, pastures, and canals. The flat, water-soaked landscape has an eerie beauty, and legends abound about spirits that inhabit the thick forests. Over a period of at least 1,000 years, the people of the region channeled the marshlands into a network of canals, streams, lakes, and irrigation channels, building their houses, barns, and chapels on the high points of otherwise swampy ground. Ethnologists consider this area a distinctive human adaptation to an unlikely landscape, and biologists appreciate the wide diversity of bird and animal life that flourishes in the lush and fertile terrain.

The area is inhabited by the Sorbs, descendants of Slavic tribes that settled here in the 6th century. They speak a language similar to Czech and Polish. The Nazis targeted the Sorbs, outlawing their language and killing many of them. It's estimated that there are still 100,000 Sorbs living in Germany, 30,000 of whom inhabit the Spreewald. They grow vegetables and fruit in a protected landscape, using labor-intensive methods even today.

The Spreewald is at its most appealing in early spring and autumn, when the crowds of sightseers depart and a spooky chill descends with the fog over these primeval forests and shallow medieval canals. To get here from Dresden, take Autobahn 13 north until you come to the first turnoff to Lübbenau or the second turnoff, 10km (6 miles) farther, to Lübben. From either hamlet, drive toward the Hafen (port). From there, tour companies will take you through the canals via a shallow-draft boat propelled by a long pole, like a Venetian gondola. The guide is often a woman in traditional dress. Several waterside cafes along the canals serve food and drink.

Boat tours cost about 20€ ($32) per person for a 2 1/2-hour excursion through the waterways of the Sorb Country. Few people speak English. The boat-tour companies operate only April to early October, with departures scheduled every day between 9am and 4pm. The companies include Fährmannsverein "Lustige Gurken," Hafen 1 (tel. 03546/7122), in Lübben; and, in Lübbenau, Spreewaldmädels, Dammstrasse 77 (tel. 03542/2225).

If you're interested in paddling around the Spreewald on your own, head for Bootsverleih Gebauer, Lindenstrasse, Lübben (tel. 03546/7194), where canoes cost around 12€ ($19) for a 2-hour rental.

The tourist office in Lübben, the main point of departure for most Spreewald cruises, is on Ernst von Houwald Damm 16 (tel. 03546/2433). The tourist office in Lübbenau, a secondary point of departure, is at Ehm Welk Strasse 15 (tel. 03542/3668).

Schloss Lübbenau Reclaimed

Nestled deep in the Spreewald and a short walk to the boats that transport you around this region's canal network is Schloss Lübbenau, Schlossbezirk 6, D-0322 Lübbenau (tel. 03542/8730; www.schloss-luebbenau.de; 112€-162€/$179-$259 doubles, 132€-200€/$211-$320 suites; rates include breakfast; closed first 2 weeks of Jan). Owned by the Lynar family since 1621, the castle was seized by the Nazis and later controlled by the communist government. During World War II, the property was owned by Count Wilhelm Friedrich zu Lynar, one of the key members of a conspiracy to assassinate Hitler during World War II. The attempt was unsuccessful, and the count was executed in 1944. His family fled to West Germany and later to Portugal, but they returned to reclaim their property after Germany's reunification in 1990. Today, the castle has been restored and converted into a splendid 46-room hotel and restaurant. The cozy guest rooms feature antique furnishings and the overall feel is relaxed, unpretentious luxury in a historical setting. Adjacent to the hotel, you'll find the charming and casual Orangerie, a bright, Portuguese tile-lined cafe and restaurant reflecting the Lynar family's connection to Portugal. One entire side of the long airy space features tall windows facing the lush trees of the Spreewald. The Orangerie serves traditional German and Saxon cuisine and is open May to October; hours vary. Call tel. 03542/8730 for details.