Hotels

With a healthy mix of plush, modern hotels and grand old guesthouses, Dublin excels in providing a place to rest your head at the end of a day. Prices are not cheap, but there are good deals, particularly in the luxury category -- keep an eye on the hotel websites in the months before you book your trip.

In this guide, we give each hotel zero to three stars, based on overall value for money. As a result, a fine but expensive hotel may get one star, while an excellent budget choice may get two.

In general, hotel rates in Dublin do not vary as much seasonally as they do in the countryside, although some hotels charge slightly higher prices during special events, such as St. Patrick's Day and the Dublin Horse Show. The money savings here comes by the day of the week: If you're looking for the best deal, some hotels cut their rates by as much as 50% on Friday and Saturday nights, when business traffic is low. On the other hand, some hotels offer midweek specials.

It usually pays to book hotels well in advance. Many hotels can be booked through toll-free numbers in the United States, and the quoted prices offered can be appreciably (as much as 40%) lower than those offered at the door. Even better, book online -- many hotels offer Web-only special deals.

If you arrive in Ireland without a reservation, don't despair. One of the best sources of last-minute rooms (often at a discount) is www.visitdublin.com. The website has a handy icon that lets you view hotels and guesthouses with immediate availability.

Another option is to arrive in person at the nearest tourist office. Alternatively, phone them at tel. 00800/668-668-66. This is a nationwide and cross-border "free-phone" facility for credit card bookings, which operates daily from 8am to 11pm. You can access it from the United States (tel. 011-800/668-668-66) and on the Web at www.gulliver.ie.

Most luxury hotels are on the south side of the river in Temple Bar and around Trinity College, but some are springing up on the Northside. Places like the boutique, U2-owned Clarence hotel in Temple Bar are stylish indicators of how far Dublin has come, while the celebrity hangout Morrison hotel just across the river from it proves that the north bank is on the upswing. There are lots of excellent midrange hotels around St. Stephen's Green, where the small, but perfectly formed Number 31 leads the way. Most budget hotels are in the north, where affordable guesthouses like the Abbott Lodge cluster around funky Lower Gardiner Street.

A Parking Note -- Many Dublin hotels do not offer parking; if you have a car, you'll have to find (and pay for) street parking. We've provided parking information only for the few hotels that do offer parking arrangements or discounts for guests. The more expensive hotels can charge as much as €25 ($33) per night to park, so ask about this hidden charge before you book.

Neighborhoods

Historic Old City & Temple Bar/Trinity College Area -- Temple Bar is the youngest, most vibrant niche in a young, vibrant town. Stay here and you'll be on the doorstep of practically anywhere you'd want to go. That said, it can get very noisy at night, so request a room on a top floor or at the rear of the establishment if you want some shut-eye.

St. Stephen's Green/Grafton Street Area -- St. Stephen's Green may be only a 10-minute walk away from the hustle and bustle of Temple Bar and Trinity College, but it's infinitely calmer and less harried. This is a good area if you're looking for a little peace and quiet.

Fitzwilliam Square/Merrion Square Area -- This elegant Georgian neighborhood feels and looks much like nearby St. Stephen's Green, but its streets are less busy and commercialized, and its hotels marginally less expensive. Fitzwilliam Square and Merrion Square are small parks surrounded by Georgian town houses. Many of the houses are offices for doctors, lawyers, and government agencies.

O'Connell Street Area North of the Liffey -- The newly hip Northside has much to offer in the way of hotels. With the gorgeous Gresham and the trendy Morrison leading the way, it's growing in popularity as a place to stay. Best of all, not only is it very central and within walking distance of all the major sights and shops, but hotel rates tend to be lower than they are just across the bridge.

Ballsbridge & the Southern Suburbs -- This is the most prestigious Dublin residential neighborhood, south of the canal, coveted for its leafy streets and historic buildings. Beautiful though it is, the downside is that it's a good 20- or 30-minute walk to most sights and shops.