Nightlife

Nightlife in Dublin is a mixed bag of traditional old pubs, where the likes of Joyce and Behan once imbibed and where traditional Irish music is often reeling away, and cool modern bars, where the repetitive rhythms of techno now fill the air and the crowd knows more about Prada than the Pogues. There's little in the way of crossover, although there are a couple of quieter bars and a few with a rock music angle, so you take your pick. Aside from the eternal elderly pubs, things change rapidly on the nightlife scene, so pick up a copy of In Dublin and the Event Guide at local cafes and shops if you're looking for the latest club scene. Both have good listings.

The award-winning website of the Irish Times (www.ireland.com) offers a "what's on" daily guide to cinema, theater, music, and whatever else you're up for. The Dublin Events Guide, at www.dublinevents.com, also provides a comprehensive listing of the week's entertainment possibilities.

Advance bookings for most large concerts, plays, and so forth can be made through Ticketmaster Ireland (tel. 01/648-6060; www.ticketmaster.ie), with ticket centers in most HMV music stores, as well as at the Dublin Tourism Centre, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2.

The Pub Scene

In Ulysses, James Joyce referred to the puzzle of trying to cross Dublin without passing a pub; his characters quickly abandoned the quest as fruitless, preferring to stop and sample a few instead. You may want to do the same, so here are some of the city's most distinctive.

Listen to the Music . . . -- When you're out for a night of traditional Irish/folk music, you should know that some pubs charge and some do not; if the band is playing informally in the main bar, as often happens, there's no charge, although they will probably pass a hat at some point, and everybody should toss in a few euros. If there is a charge, the music usually happens in a separate room from the main pub, and the charge will be noted on the door; usually it's €5 or €7, and you pay as you go in, cash only.

Tipping and buying CDs happens in exactly the same fashion as in the U.S. There will be a big jar or an open guitar case with change already in it as an enticement, so you toss in a few coins, and they nod. If they're selling CDs they'll make sure you know about it! (They'll probably autograph them too, after the set. Maybe the band won't be the next U2, but you never know!)

Staying Up Late -- Because of rules dating from World War I, pubs close quite early in Ireland (at 11pm in winter, 11:30pm in summer), and for many, that's just too soon to call it a night. If you're in that group, you might want to crawl to one of the city's many late-night pubs and bars. These are boozers that have received legal permission to remain open after-hours, usually until 2 or 3am.

Late-nighters for the 18-to-25 set include The Capital, 2 Aungier St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/475-7166), and Hogans, 35 S. Great George's St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/677-5904).

After-hours pubs that attract the young and hip but are still congenial for those over 25 include Whelan's, 25 Wexford St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/478-0766); and the second-oldest pub in Dublin, the Bleeding Horse, 24-25 Camden St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/475-2705).

For the over-30 late crowd, try Break for the Border, Lower Stephen's Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/478-0300); Bad Bob's Backstage Bar, East Essex Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/677-0945); Major Tom's, South King Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/478-3266); or Sinnotts, South King Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/478-4698).

Bars & Nightclubs

Over the last few years, cocktail bars and hugely popular nightclubs have been springing up around Dublin like daffodils in spring. The nightclub scene is confoundingly complex. One club could be a gay fetish scene one night and techno-pop dance the next, so you have to stay on your toes. The first rule is to get the latest listings from local sources.

The hottest clubs have a "strict" (read: unfriendly) door policy of admitting only "regulars." Your chances of getting past the door increase if you're female and wear your hippest clothes.

Cover charges tend to fluctuate from place to place and from night to night and even from person to person (some people can't buy their way in, while others glide in gratis). Cover charges range from nothing to €20 ($26).

Bars for Mixing, Mingling & Chatting -- These are modern cocktail bars, where the kind of financially successful, under-40 person who wouldn't be caught dead in a pub goes for a drink.

Comedy Clubs

Besides the favorite clubs listed, Vicar Street tends to get many of the international comics. As always, check the latest listings in magazines for details. Admission ranges from €5 to €20 ($6.50-$26) depending on the act and the night.

The Gay & Lesbian Scene

The gay scene in Dublin has expanded by leaps and bounds in the last decade, from absolutely nothing at all, to small but sturdy. Due to the country's traditional conservatism, it's unlikely this will ever be an Ibiza-level gay zone, but at least there are high-quality gay bars and regular gay nights at local dance clubs. Hotels accept same-sex couples without raising an eyebrow, unlike in years past. However, the aforementioned conservatism means that it's not a great idea for same-sex couples to hold hands or cuddle on the street, and keeping a low profile when wandering with your gay friends from restaurant to bar isn't a bad idea. Think small-town America, and you'll get the zeitgeist. The tolerance here only goes so far.

Cover charges range from €5 to €20 ($6.50-$26), depending on the club or venue, with discounts for students and seniors.

Check the Gay Community News, Free!, and Scene City to find out what's going on in town. The most comprehensive websites for gay organizations, events, issues, and information are Gay Ireland Online (www.gay-ireland.com) and Gay Community News (www.gcn.ie). Another good resource is the site Ireland's Pink Pages (www.pink-pages.org). Folks on the help lines Lesbians Organizing Together (tel. 01/872-7770) and Gay Switchboard Dublin (tel. 01/872-1055) are also extremely helpful in directing you to activities of particular interest.

The Performing Arts

Theater -- With a heritage extending from the likes of George Bernard Shaw, Dublin has a venerable and vital theatrical tradition. Homegrown talent has kept the many theaters here alive, whether it's actors like Colin Farrell or writers like the currently very hot Marina Carr (By the Bog of Cats) and Marie Jones (Stones in His Pockets). Complementing the talent are beautiful, historic theaters so vaingloriously gilded that they make every performance an event. Most theaters are on the city's Northside, not far off the river.

The online booking site Ticketmaster (www.ticketmaster.ie) is an excellent place to get a quick look at what's playing where and also to buy tickets. In addition to the major theaters listed below, other venues present fewer, although on occasion quite impressive, productions. They also book music and dance performances. They include the Focus Theatre, 12 Fade St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-2417); the Olympia, 72 Dame St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/679-3323); Project: Dublin, 39 E. Essex St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/679-6622; www.project.ie); and the Tivoli, 135-138 Francis St., opposite Iveagh Market, Dublin 8 (tel. 01/454-4472).

Concerts -- On any given night, you can find almost anything -- rock, pop, jazz, blues, traditional Irish, country, or folk -- in this town, so check listings magazines to find out what's on and where. Music and dance concerts take place in a range of venues -- theaters, churches, clubs, museums, sports stadiums, castles, parks, and universities. While you're probably more likely to choose your entertainment based on the performer rather than the venue, these institutions stand out.

Smaller Concert Venues -- If you prefer more-intimate settings, below are some of the best small venues in Dublin. The Village is the newest and hottest; Whelan's and the Vicar are the old favorites. Check local listings, or the individual websites, to find out what's on when you're in town: