With the center of town only 17km (11 miles) from the current airport, it's not necessary to book into an airport hotel to catch a late-night or early flight: all the establishments listed here will arrange airport transfers. Hotels line the beachfront, but personally I think you're better off in a great guesthouse on what is known as "the Ridge," with views overlooking the city and harbor. Besides Essenwood , D'Urban Elephant Guest House (tel. 031/205-6926; www.durbanelephant.co.za; R550/$76/£40 double) is a real find, offering spacious accommodations in an old Edwardian house set in lush tropical gardens (often visited by monkeys), with a massive lap pool, commanding views, and friendly owners. All bedrooms lead out either into the garden or onto their own patios/verandas. The neighborhood has many good restaurants and a great art gallery (NSA), and three shopping centers are within walking distance. The nature reserve, Pigeon Valley, is also a 5-minute walk away. If you want to be closer to the heart of Durban's nightlife, I like the laid-back, funky boho style of La Bordello (R600/$83/£42 double) and its central location off Windermere. It's next to Bean Bag Bohemia (tel. 031/309-6019; www.beanbagbohemia.co.za), which is where breakfasts are served. If you prefer hotels, The Edward (tel. 031/337-3681; www.proteahotels.com), grande dame of Durban's beachfront, has the most character. Make sure you book a spacious sea-facing double (R1,592/$221/£113), with a bay window overlooking the beachfront. Businesspeople, however, prefer The Royal (tel. 031/333-6000; www.theroyal.co.za; R2,660/$370/£190 double), which has exceptional service (it's a member of Leading Hotels of the World), or the Hilton (tel. 031/336-8100; www.hiltonhotel.co.za; R1,940/$270/£138 double); both are in the center of town.
