Restaurants

Combine weather so benign you can dine outdoors all year round, panoramic sea views, a rich Victorian, Art Deco, and Indian architectural heritage, and a melting pot of cultural flavors, and you can see why Durban's dining scene is so interesting. It's also quite easy to navigate, with much of it (the best of which are highlighted below) concentrated in the Glenwood-Berea-Morningside residential belt. Florida and Windermere roads in Morningside are still the hot spots, but newcomer Davenport Road in Glenwood is the one to watch. The following suggestions were compiled by local foodie Ingrid Shevlin, who contributes to the annual Eat Out magazine.

Windermere Road -- At the bottom end of Windermere, you'll find Bean Bag Bohemia, no. 18 (tel. 031/309-6019). Located in an elegant old Durban building, this is home away from home for Durban's arty set, who like BBB, never seem to sleep. On the ground floor is a buzzy bar and cafe-style eatery that serves pizzas, sandwiches, and spoonfuls of tasty tidbits ranging from olives to won tons. Come here for a drink, then move on to Mama Luciana's, no. 45 (tel. 031/303-8350), where Mama Luciana offers a family-style welcome.

Florida Road -- Midway up Florida Road, at no. 178, is Society (tel. 031/312-3213), a stylish restaurant and bar sprawling over two floors in one of the finest examples of early Durban architecture. The small, contemporary fusion menu features sushi and Asian-style tapas. Practically next door is Spiga D'Ore (tel. 031/303-9511), a popular family-owned Italian eatery. Food is good and cheap, but you might have to wait for a table. If you're in the mood for light Asian, head straight to the Mo Better Noodles, Shop 5, 275 Florida Rd. (tel. 031/312-4193), an airy noodle bar serving consistently fine Thai-style food. The menu is small, but a long list of daily specials keeps regulars loyal.

Davenport Road -- Packed cheek to jowl, this new dining district in Glenwood has become a serious challenge to Florida Road's culinary dominance. Olive and Oil, on the corner of Bulwer and Davenport roads (tel. 031/201-6146), serves a somewhat conservative menu of Mediterranean food that relies on rich but satisfying sauces. Or trundle on to Pizzetta, no 139 (tel. 031/201-1019), a casual but stylish eatery serving gourmet pizza combinations like smoked salmon, capers, and mascarpone cheese. A few doors away, Hemingways, no. 131 (tel. 031/202-4906), offers contemporary cafe food, light lunches, breakfasts, seriously good coffee, and both indoor and alfresco dining. Across the road is Dawn Glenny's Euforia, no. 134 (tel. 031/202-8951), a vegetarian joint, where the food is fresh, healthy, and organic. Middle Eastern Yossi's, at no. 127 (tel. 031/201-0090), is hugely popular but, truth be told, it's really the warm vibe, open terrace, and chance to smoke a hookah that keep people coming back for more. (Don't miss the live jazz on Wed and Sun evenings.) Round the corner on Bulwer road is the Arts Cafe (tel. 031/201-9969), where you can eat from a light, cafe-style menu while sitting under spreading trees. A supervised play area allows kids to run around. Good coffee too.

For Foodies -- Perhaps it's the year-round balmy weather, perhaps it's the casual laid-back atmosphere, but Durban has fewer fine-dining outlets than other cities. Among the best, 9th Avenue Bistro, in the Avonmore Centre, not far from the buzz of Florida Road (tel. 031/312-9134), is where award-winning chef/owner Carly Goncalves serves up modern bistro fare. The menu is small and changes seasonally, but expect the likes of pear and Gorgonzola salad with candied pecans; or seafood sausages served with seared scallops, basil mash, saffron emulsion and tomato relish. Loin of venison is a popular perennial. Not quite fine dining but serving superb and authentic Thai dishes, sushi, and sashimi is Green Mango (tel. 031/312-7054) in the same center -- their spicy crispy duck is the stuff of culinary fantasies.

The other top option is Cafe 1999, high up on the Berea in the Silvervause Centre (tel. 031/202-3406), where chef Marcelle Labuschagne and her partner Sean Roberts, who handles the front of house, continue to pack them in with a modern Mediterranean menu, including their signature boned loin of lamb, grilled with lemon and rosemary, served with wilted bok choy, smashed baby potatoes, olive tapenade, and feta and drizzled with red wine jus. Best of all, menu items are offered in "tidbit" or "bigbit" portions, so you can taste to your stomach's capacity. The only downside is the noise levels. If you're looking for a quiet tête-à-tête, pop next door to TheStore (tel. 031/202-6182). Owners Monique and Sherwin have garnered a devoted following for dishes like duck breast flavored with star anise and cayenne and sweetened with honey, and a roasted sweet potato and leek stack. Finally, if you're in Umhlanga, top picks are The Sugar Club and Ile Maurice [STST], 9 McCausland Crescent (tel. 031/561-7609), where the Mauvis family has been offering a mix of traditional French and Mauritian cuisine and excellent seafood for decades.

Table with Sea View, Please -- Perched over the small-crafts harbor, with water lapping at its foundation and moored yachts just a touch away, Yacht Mole (tel. 031/305-5062) specializes in seafood. A good wine list will keep discerning wine drinkers happy. For a range of dining-with-a-view options, head farther along the Embankment to Wilson's Wharf, at the southern end of Durban's bay, where you can choose among several restaurants, including a good sushi and oyster bar and a Thai restaurant, all with decks overlooking the harbor. Suncoast Casino, overlooking Durban's North Beach, is a casino and family-entertainment center rolled into one; the best option here is Havana Grill and Wine Bar (tel. 031/337-1305), which offers top-quality steaks as well as a few interesting seafood and vegetarian options. In Umhlanga, head for the Beverly Hills Hotel, to The Sugar Club (tel. 031/561-2211), offering contemporary fine dining right next to the ocean. Downstairs, overlooking the sea and large swimming pool is Elements (tel. 031/561-2211), with an appealing all-white decor and a light, contemporary cafe menu.

King of Curry -- Head down to Greyville, to 20 Windermere Rd., where Vintage (tel. 031/309-1328), a popular Indian restaurant in an old Berea home, serves up a selection of north and south Indian food (I recommend the butter chicken). Farther up Windermere is the Indian Connection (tel. 031/312-1440) serving mainly north Indian with a comprehensive vegetarian selection. Palki, on Musgrave road (tel. 031/201-0019), serves north and south Indian foods in a cheerful, spacious first-floor room. For a grand and elegant dining experience befitting Indian royalty, head for the imposing Gateway to India, Gateway Theatre of Shopping, Umhlanga (tel. 031/566-5711), where a team of chefs from India prepares north Indian dishes.