Regions in Brief

Pittenweem

If you're at Pittenweem Monday through Saturday morning, try to get caught up in the action at the fish auction held under a large shed. The actual time depends on the tides. Afterward, go for a walk through the village and admire the sturdy stone homes, some of which have been preserved by Scotland's National Trust.

The weem in the name of the town means "cave," a reference to St. Fillan's Cave (tel. 01333/311-495), at Cove Wynd in the vicinity of the harbor. This cave is said to contain the shrine of St. Fillan, a hermit who lived in the 6th century. Hours are daily 10am to 5pm; admission is £1 ($1.90), free for children under 15 years old.

The best way to reach Anstruther is to hike the 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) over to it, because the road isn't paved. If the day is clear, this is one of the loveliest walks in eastern Scotland. From Pittenweem, follow a signpost directing you to Anstruther; you cross Scottish meadows and can say hello to a few lambs. You can also take the walk in reverse, as most visitors do. In Anstruther, the path begins at the bottom of West Brases, a small cul-de-sac off the main road in the village.

Anstruther

Once an important herring-fishing port, Anstruther is now a summer resort, 74km (46 miles) northeast of Edinburgh, 55km (34 miles) east of Dunfermline, 6.5km (4 miles) southwest of Crail, and 37km (23 miles) south of Dundee. The tourist office is on High Street (tel. 01333/311-073); it's open April to September, Monday, Friday, and Saturday from 10am to 5pm; Tuesday to Thursday 10am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm; and Sunday 11am to 4pm.

The beaches are too chilly for swimming, but they're great for a brisk, scenic walk. The best nearby is Billow Ness Beach, a 10-minute walk east of the center.

The Scottish Fisheries Museum, St. Ayles, Harbourhead (tel. 01333/310-628; bus: 95), is down by the harbor. It was expanded in 1999 to include a building that was a tavern in the 18th century, as well as several re-creations of restored fishing boats. Here you can follow the fisherfolk through every aspect of their industry -- from the days of sail to modern times. Associated with the museum, but afloat in the harbor, is an old herring drifter, The Reaper, which you can board. April to September, the museum is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5:30pm and Sunday 11am to 5pm; October to March, hours are Monday to Saturday 10am to 4:30pm and Sunday from noon to 4:30pm. Admission is £5 ($9.50) adults, £4 ($7.60) seniors and children. Last admission one hour before closing time.

From the museum, you can walk to the tiny hamlet of Cellardyke, adjoining Anstruther. You'll find many charming stone houses and an ancient harbor where in the year Victoria took the throne (1837), 140 vessels used to put out to sea. You can rent a bike from East Neuk Outdoors, Cellardyke Park (tel. 01333/311-929; www.eastneukoutdoors.co.uk), where rental rates are £15 ($29) daily and £37 to £54 ($70-$103) weekly, plus a deposit. It's open daily April to September from 9am to 5pm, open by appointment only in winter.

The Isle of May, a nature reserve in the Firth of Forth, is accessible by boat from Anstruther. It's a bird observatory and a field station and contains the ruins of a 12th-century chapel as well as an early-19th-century lighthouse.

The May Princess (tel. 01333/310-103 or -054; www.isleofmayferry.com) is a 100-passenger boat that departs for the Isle of May from the Lifeboat Station at Anstruther Harbour every day, weather permitting, between April and September. One hour before departure, tickets go on sale from a kiosk beside Anstruther Harbour. The cost is £16 ($30) for adults, £14 ($27) for seniors and students, and £8 ($15) for children 3 to 14. Departure times vary with the season, the day of the week, and the vagaries of the weather, so call in advance before planning for the 4- to 5-hour trip. Between May and July, expect to see hundreds, even thousands, of puffins, which mate on the Isle of May at that time. Credit cards are not accepted.

Elie

With its step-gabled houses and little harbor, Elie, 18km (11 miles) south of Anstruther, is many visitors' favorite village along the coast. Only a 25-minute car ride from Edinburgh, Elie and its close neighbor, Earlsferry, overlook a crescent of gold-sand beach, with more swimming possibilities to be found among sheltered coves. The name Elie is believed to come from the ailie (island) of Ardross, which now forms part of the harbor and is joined to the mainland by a road. A large stone building, a former granary, at the harbor is a reminder of the days when Elie was a busy trading port. Of all the villages of East Neuk, this one seems best suited for walks and hikes in all directions.

Earlsferry, to the west, got its name from an ancient ferry crossing, which Macduff, the thane of Fife, is supposed to have used in his escape from Macbeth.

East of the harbor stands a stone structure known as the Lady's Tower, used by Lady Janet Anstruther, a noted 18th-century beauty, as a bathing cabana. Another member of the Anstruther family, Sir John, added the interesting bell tower to the parish church that stands in the center of the village.

Beyond the lighthouse, on a point of land to the east of the harbor, lies Ruby Bay, so named because you can find garnets here. Farther along the coast is Fossil Bay, where you can find a variety of fossils.

Crail

The pearl of the East Neuk of Fife, Crail is 81km (50 miles) northeast of Edinburgh, 37km (23 miles) south of Dundee, and 15km (9 miles) south of St. Andrews. It's an artists' colony, and many painters live in cottages around the little harbor. Natural bathing facilities are at Roome Bay, and many beaches are nearby. The Balcomie Golf Course is one of the oldest in the world and is still in good condition.

The old town grew up along the harbor, and you can still see a lot of fishing cottages clustered here. Crab and lobster boats continue to set out hoping for a big catch. Upper Crail overlooks the harbor and also merits exploration. The tollbooth dates from 1598 and is crowned by a belfry. Marketgate is lined with trees and flanked by small two- and three-floor houses. Follow the walkway to Castle Walk, which offers the most panoramic view of Crail.

To understand the villages of East Neuk better, visit the Crail Museum & Heritage Centre, 62 Marketgate (tel. 01333/450-869), which contains artifacts related to fishing and the former trading links of these tiny villages. Admission is free. June to September the center is open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm and Sunday from 2 to 5pm; Easter week Monday to Saturday 10am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm; April 1 to May 2 weekends 2 to 5pm.