Fast Facts

American Express -- There are two American Express travel offices in Ecuador -- one in Quito, the other in Guayaquil -- both run by Global Tours (www.globaltour.com.ec). In Quito, the office is located on Av. República El Salvador 309 and Calle Suiza (tel. 02/2265-222). In Guayaquil, the office is located in the Edificio Las Cámaras, on Avenida Francisco de Orellana and Alcivar (tel. 04/2680-450).

Area Codes -- Cities and provinces across Ecuador have single-digit area codes (Pichincha province and Quito, 2; Guaya province and Guayaquil, 4; Azay province and Cuenca 7; and so on). In some cases, a single area code will cover several provinces. If you are calling from one area code to another you must dial "0" before the area code, while neither the "0" nor the area code is used if calling within the area. To call a cellphone, you must first dial "09" and then the seven-digit number.

ATM Networks -- Ecuador has a well-developed network of ATMs. Just about every bank branch in the country, particularly in the major cities, towns, and tourist destinations, has an ATM or two. While many of Ecuador's ATMs will work fine with five- and six-digit PINs, some will only accept four-digit PINs. Before traveling, it is wise to change your PIN to avoid any unexpected hassles in getting access to quick cash.

Business Hours -- In general, business hours are weekdays from 9am to 1pm and 2:30 or 3 to 6:30pm. In Quito and Guayaquil, most banks stay open all day from about 9am to 5pm, but some still close in the middle of the day, so it's best to take care of your banking needs early in the morning. Most banks, museums, and stores are open on Saturday from 10am to noon. Everything closes down on Sunday.

Cameras & Film -- Film is generally more expensive in Ecuador, so bring as much as you will need from home. I also recommend that you wait to have your film processed at home, but if you must develop your prints down here or need to pick up film, batteries, or storage cards, try Ecuacolor (tel. 02/2526-982; www.ecuacolor.com), Fuji Foto (tel. 02/2551-275), or Foto Quick (tel. 02/2229-982), all of which have numerous outlets around Quito and in most major tourist destinations. For more serious photographic needs (equipment, repairs, and so on), Difoto (tel. 02/2224-676), on Foch 864 in Quito, is your best bet. Some of the chain stores mentioned above have technicians on hand, and carry a limited range of replacement and repair parts.

Customs -- What You Can Bring into Ecuador: Visitors to Ecuador are legally permitted to bring in up to $1,250 worth of items for personal use, including cameras, portable typewriters, video cameras and accessories, tape recorders, personal computers, and CD players. You can also bring in up to 2 liters of alcoholic beverages and 200 cigarettes (1 carton).

What You Can Take Home from Ecuador: It is illegal to bring out any pre-Columbian artifact from Ecuador, whether you bought it, you discovered it, or it was given to you. Do not traffic in ancient artifacts.

U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Drug Laws -- If you're caught possessing, using, or trafficking drugs in Ecuador, expect severe penalties, including long jail sentences and large fines. If you're arrested in Ecuador, you should also prepare yourself for a lengthy delay in prison before your case is tried before a judge. It's not uncommon to detain prisoners without bail.

Drugstores -- A drugstore or pharmacy is called a farmacia in Spanish. Fybeca has the largest chain of pharmacies in Ecuador. You can call Fybeca's toll-free line (tel. 800/2392-322) 24 hours a day for home delivery in most major cities in the country.

Electricity -- The majority of outlets in Ecuador are standard U.S.-style two- and three-prong electric outlets with 110/120V AC (60 Hz) current.

Embassies & Consulates -- In Quito: United States, at the corner of Avenida 12 de Octubre and Avenida Patria, across from the Casa de la Cultura (tel. 02/2562-890, ext. 480); Canada, Av. 6 de Diciembre 2816 and Paul Rivet (tel. 02/2232-114); and United Kingdom, Avenida Naciones Unidas and República de El Salvador, Edificio Citiplaza, 14th floor (tel. 02/2970-800). There is no Australian Embassy in Ecuador, but there is an Australian Honorary Consul in Guayaquil, in the Kennedy Norte neighborhood on Calle San Roque and Avenida Francisco de Orellana (tel. 04/2680-823).

Emergencies -- In an emergency, call tel. 911, or 101 for the police only.

Etiquette & Customs -- There are no overarching etiquette or customs concerns for visitors to Ecuador. However, it is very important to respect the prominent and pervasive indigenous culture

Appropriate Attire: In business situations, a suit or dressy women's clothing are appropriate. In all other situations, casual clothing is the norm, although short pants are almost never worn by men in urban centers, including in steamy Guayaquil.

Avoiding Offense: In rural areas, Ecuador's indigenous population can be relatively reserved and private. Most indigenous Ecuadorians are very wary of having their photographs taken, and it is considered impolite and even aggressive to do so without asking permission first. In many tourist destinations, locals will readily allow themselves to be photographed, for a small fee

Gestures: Almost all Ecuadorians use a handshake for greeting, men and women alike. However, don't expect or give anything like handshake common in North America; the Ecuadorian handshake can be very light, with almost no grasping, especially in the more remote indigenous towns and villages.

The Global Etiquette Guide to Mexico and Latin America (Wiley Publishing, Inc.) has a short chapter on Ecuador.

Hospitals -- Hospital Vozandes (tel. 02/2262-142; www.hospitalvozandes.org; Villalengua 267 and 10 de Agosto) and Hospital Metropolitano (tel. 02/2261-520; www.hospitalmetropolitano.org; Mariana de Jesús and Occidental) are the two most modern and best equipped hospitals in Quito. Both have 24-hour emergency service and English-speaking doctors.

Internet Access -- Internet service is available almost everywhere in Ecuador, including in the Galápagos. But don't expect to see anything resembling a computer in the jungle. Connections in major cities cost 80¢ to $1 (44p-55p) per hour. In smaller, more remote towns and the Galápagos, the connection can cost up to $3 to $4 (£1.65-£2.20) per hour.

Language -- Spanish is the language most commonly used in business transactions. Indigenous languages such as Quichua are also widely spoken throughout the country. Shuar is common in the Amazon basin. It's best to come to Ecuador with a basic knowledge of Spanish. Outside the major tourist sights, it can be difficult to find people who speak English.

Laundry -- Most folks rely on their hotel's laundry and dry-cleaning services, although these can be expensive. The more popular tourist destinations have self-service and full-service Laundromats as alternatives.

Legal Aid -- In the event you need legal help, immediately contact your embassy or consulate.

Liquor Laws -- The legal drinking age is 18, although it's almost never enforced. At discos, however, you often need to show a picture ID for admittance. Everything from beer to hard spirits are sold in specific liquor stores as well as at most supermarkets and even convenience stores.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. To report a lost or stolen American Express card, call tel. 02/2560-488 in Ecuador, or tel. 910/333-3211 collect in the U.S.; for Diners Club, call tel. 02/2981-300 in Ecuador, or 303/799-1504 collect in the U.S.; for MasterCard, call tel. 02/2262-770 in Ecuador, or 314/542-7111 collect in the U.S.; and for Visa, call tel. 02/2459-303 in Ecuador, or 410/581-9994 collect in the U.S.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 1800/989-898 in Ecuador; www.westernunion.com).

Identity theft and fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet, especially if you've lost your driver's license along with your cash and credit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (tel. 800/766-0008; www.equifax.com), Experian (tel. 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and TransUnion (tel. 800/680-7289; www.transunion.com). Finally, if you've lost all forms of photo ID, call your airline and explain the situation; they might allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you've filed.

Measurements -- Ecuador uses the metric system, although gasoline is sold by the gallon.

Newspapers & Magazines -- There are several Spanish-language daily papers in Ecuador. The most popular and prominent are El Mercurio, El Universo, and El Comercio.

At the airports in Quito and Guayaquil, and at the high-end business hotels, you can find the latest edition of the Miami Herald for around 50¢ to $1 (25p-55p). English-language copies of Time or Newsweek are also available at some newsstands in the most touristy areas of Quito.

Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for an €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency; or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Police -- Throughout Ecuador, you can reach the police by dialing tel. 101 in an emergency. The tourist police can also help sort out problems. In Quito, the number for the tourist police is tel. 02/2543-983.

Post Offices & Mail -- A post office is called correos in Spanish. Most towns have a central post office, usually located right on the central park or plaza. In addition, most hotels will post letters and post cards for you. Most post offices in Ecuador are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 6pm, and Saturday from 8am to 2pm. It costs 90¢ (50p) to mail a letter to the United States or Canada, and $1.10 (60p) to Australia and Europe. From time to time, you can buy stamps at kiosks and newsstands. But your best bet is to mail your letter and buy your stamps from the post office itself, especially since there are no public mailboxes.

However, it is best to send anything of value via an established international courier service. Most hotels, especially in major cities and tourist destinations, can arrange for express mail pickup. Alternately, you can contact DHL (tel. 02/2485-100; www.dhl.com), Fed Ex (tel. 02/2909-201; www.fedex.com), EMS (tel. 02/2561-962), or UPS (tel. 02/3960-000; www.ups.com). Note: Despite what you may be told, packages sent overnight to U.S. addresses tend to take 3 to 4 days to reach their destination.

Restrooms -- The condition of public facilities is surprisingly good in Ecuador. In museums, the toilets are relatively clean, but they never have toilet paper. If you have an emergency, you can also use the restrooms in hotel lobbies without much problem. Note that most buses don't have toilet facilities, and when they stop at rest stops, the facilities are often horrendous -- usually smelly squat toilets. It's always useful to have a roll of toilet paper handy.

Safety -- Pickpocketing is a problem in all large cities. But if you keep an eye on your belongings at all times, you should be fine. Never put anything valuable in your backpack. Also be careful on the Trole (trolley). At night, Quito can be dangerous, especially in the touristy areas -- take a taxi, even if you're only going a short distance. Because the streets in Quito are often deserted at night, I recommend walking in the middle of them to prevent someone from jumping at you from a hidden doorway. Guayaquil used to hold the award for being the most dangerous city in Ecuador, but in the past few years, the city has cleaned up its act. Cuenca is the safest large city in Ecuador and residents routinely walk around at night, especially on weekends. Report all problems to the tourist police (tel. 02/2543-983).

Smoking -- By law, smoking is prohibited in all indoor public spaces, including restaurants, shops, cinemas, and offices. (Bars and discos are exempt.) That said, enforcement is virtually nonexistent. While not as bad as most of Europe, a large number of Ecuadorians smoke, and smoke-filled public spaces are common. Bars, discos, and clubs are often especially smoke-filled in Ecuador.

Taxes -- All goods and services are charged a 12% value-added tax. Hotels and restaurants also add on a 10% service charge, for a total of 22% more on your bill. There is an airport departure tax of $38 (£19).

Time Zone -- Mainland Ecuador is on Eastern Standard Time, 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). The Galápagos Islands are on Central Standard Time, 6 hours behind GMT. Daylight saving time is not observed.

Tipping -- Restaurants in Ecuador add a 10% service charge to all checks. It's common to add 5% to 10% on top of this, especially if you feel the service merits it. Taxi drivers don't expect tips. Hotel porters are typically tipped 50¢ to $1 (28p-55p) per bag.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Department of State Travel Advisory (tel. 202/647-5225, manned 24 hr.); U.S. Passport Agency (tel. 202/647-0518); U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hot Line (tel. 404/332-4559).

Water -- Always drink bottled water in Ecuador. Most hotels provide bottled water in the bathroom. You can buy bottles of water on practically any street corner. Small bottles cost about 25¢ (15p). The better restaurants use ice made from boiled water, but, to be on the safe side, always ask.