Edinburgh has been called one of Europe's fairest cities and the Athens of the North. And what most experienced travelers to the U.K. say is true: if you can visit only two cities in all Great Britain, it's London first and Edinburgh second. Built on extinct volcanoes atop an inlet from the North Sea (the Firth of Forth) and enveloped by rolling hills, lakes, and forests, the Scottish capital began as a small, fortified settlement on a craggy hill. Indeed, because of its defensive attributes, Edinburgh (remember "burgh" is always pronounced "burr-a" in Scotland) became an important, protected place for the country's rulers. Somewhat ironically, the city today represents the virtual crossroads of Scotland for many visitors: the spot that they are likely to stop in or pass through while in Scotland.
Edinburgh is filled with historic, intellectual, and literary associations. Names such as Mary Queen of Scots and her nemesis Protestant reformer John Knox; pioneer economist Adam Smith and philosopher David Hume; authors Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle; as well as inventor Alexander Graham Bell: They are all part of Edinburgh's past.
Today the city is famous for its world-class cultural festival. The Edinburgh Festival is actually several festivals at once: films, books, comedy, drama, classical music, dance, and more. But this ancient seat of Scottish royalty has a year-round attraction: when the festival-goers have returned home, the city's pace is more relaxed, its prices are lower, and the inhabitants -- though not celebrated for their bonhomie -- are under less pressure and offer a hospitable welcome.
Edinburgh is a city that lends itself to walking. Its Old Town and New Town sport moody cobbled alleys, elegant streetscapes, handsome squares, and placid parks. From several hilltops, panoramic views can be enjoyed. The city's sunsets can be romantic -- in the Scots language, the fading evening light is the "gloaming."
Edinburgh was long the cultural capital of the north, but that particular crown -- in terms of contemporary culture -- has been perhaps lost to Glasgow since the last few decades of the 20th century. However, the lively capital is staging a comeback. It will always be home to the several National Galleries of Scotland. And as a point for excursions, it's well placed. Notable nearby attractions include Linlithgow, where Mary Queen of Scots was born; the Borders, with rolling hillsides to the south; the Kingdom of Fife on the opposite shore of the Firth of Forth; and even St Andrews is not far.
