Restaurants

Cuisine in Scotland is perhaps the most misunderstood aspect of the country. Too many seem to think that food here begins and ends with haggis, which in itself is misunderstood. There is honestly a lot more to the country's larder than the famous traditional dish.

Edinburgh boasts some of the best restaurants in the country, and the choice in the capital is more diverse than ever. You'll find an array of contemporary Scottish restaurants; French, fish, and brasserie-style eateries; along with cuisine from around the world, particularly Indian and Thai food. Plus, the vegetarian options are not too bad.

Scotland's reputation for excellent fresh produce is growing. So look out for the following in season: shellfish such as langoustines (large prawns), oysters, mussels, or scallops; locally landed finned fish (such as halibut, bream, or sea bass); as well as lamb and Aberdeen Angus, or Highland, beef. Fresh vegetables include asparagus, peas, and, of course, potatoes -- some claim that the spuds grown in Ayrshire's sandy soils are unparalleled for fluffy texture and rich taste.

Remember, a majority of the restaurants close in the afternoon, so don't plan to eat lunch too late in the day. The hours given in the information below reflect when food may be ordered; bars on the premises may keep longer hours. Many restaurants also close for business on either Sunday or Monday -- sometimes both. But during the annual Edinburgh Festival from late July to the end of August, many also offer extended hours; given the crowds, always reserve a table in advance.

For ideas on dining options, buy The List magazine's comprehensive Eating & Drinking Guide, an annually updated publication that lists and reviews hundreds of restaurants, bars, and cafes in Edinburgh (and Glasgow).

Prices -- In part because of the strength of the currency in the U.K., the cost of dining out may well seem expensive. Still, there is a range of choices for most budgets. The prices do include the 17.5% VAT, so there are no hidden surprises when the bill comes. If you're looking for bargains, inquire about pretheater special menus, which can be almost half the price of the regular dinner menu. Log onto www.5pm.co.uk for a selection of restaurants offering early dining deals.

Tipping -- A gratuity of 10% is the average for service, although leave nothing if you were badly treated. On the other hand, if you were truly impressed, leaving up to 15% to 20% should be considered. In a few restaurants, service is included in the bill automatically. This can, however, be refunded if service was genuinely dreadful.

Smoking -- All restaurants and bars are nonsmoking by law, following the pattern of Ireland, California, and New York City. Some have outdoor dining areas, however, where smoking is allowed.

King o' the Puddin' Race

Haggis, the much-misunderstood traditional dish of Scotland, may be an acquired taste, but it's honestly tasty. If you've come all this way -- why not give it a try? Macsween of Edinburgh (www.macsween.co.uk) is a long-established family business specializing in Burn's "King o' the Puddin' Race." Macsween haggis includes lamb, beef, oatmeal, onions, and a special blend of seasonings and spices cooked together and stuffed into a natural casing. They also make a popular vegetarian version. Both are sold in vacuum-packed plastic bags and require only reheating in a microwave or simmering pan of water. You can find this company's product at a range of food stores and supermarkets throughout Edinburgh.

Family-Friendly Fare

The Baked Potato Shop -- Children generally delight in being taken to this favorite lunch spot located at 56 Cockburn St., just off the High Street in Old Town (tel. 0131/225-7572). Here they can order fluffy baked potatoes with a choice of a half-dozen hot fillings along with all sorts of other dishes, including chili and a variety of salads. It's cheap, too. Open Monday to Sunday 9am to 9pm.

Valvona and Crolla Caffe Bar -- Located at 19 Elm Row , at the top of Leith Walk (tel. 0131/556-6066), this place is best known as one of the U.K.'s finest Italian delis. But if you can get past the tempting salamis, cheeses, and other delicacies, V&C offers a welcoming cafe handling children in that way that Italians seem to do best.

Tea for Two?

If you're looking for a bit of a break while sightseeing in Old Town, try Plaisir du Chocolat , 251-253 Canongate (tel. 0131/556-9524). This is a modern representative of the Auld Alliance between Scotland and France -- when England was the nemesis of both countries. There are more than 100 types of tea, but if you need a boost of energy, go for one of the cafe's specialties: hot chocolate -- as effective as coffee, believe us. It's open daily 10am to 6pm. A more traditional choice is Clarinda's Tearoom, 69 Canongate (tel. 0131/557-1888), for the classically British experience of afternoon tea: lace tablecloths, china, and Wedgwood plates on the walls. If you want a formal venue, try the Palm Court at the Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes St. (tel. 0131/556-2414).