Attractions

Edinburgh's reputation is enormous and the city essentially lives up to it. The second most popular destination after London for visitors to Great Britain, the Scottish capital is one of the most picturesque cities in Europe. Built on a set of hills, Edinburgh is unarguably dramatic. Its Old Town lies at the heart, with Edinburgh Castle at one end of the Royal Mile, which follows the spine of a hill down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. For many visitors, this is Edinburgh, with its mews, closes, and alleyways. But across the valley to the north, now filled by the verdant Princes Street Gardens, is the city's New Town, which dates to the 1770s. Here are tidy streets and broad avenues, another popular focal point in Edinburgh, with restaurants, bars, shops, squares, and attractions, such as the National Portrait Gallery. New Town reaches out to the village-like setting of Stockbridge -- from which one can walk along the city's narrow meandering river, the Water of Leith -- to Dean Village (another district that feels almost rural in nature) and the National Gallery of Modern Art and its sister arts venue, the Dean Gallery. South of Old Town is the sprawling Meadows, with its acres of grass, and the precincts of Edinburgh University and suburbs such as Marchmont. North is the port of Leith along the Firth of Forth, which empties into the North Sea.

Edinburgh's world famous annual cultural celebration -- the Edinburgh Festival -- brings in tourists and lovers of art of all forms from around the world. But if you prefer a bit more space and smaller crowds, avoid the month of August in Edinburgh.

A Note on Museum Hours -- During the Edinburgh Festival, some museums that are normally closed on a Sunday will be open, and hours can be generally longer. Some museums that open only in summer are also open on public holidays throughout the year.

Suggested Itineraries

If You Have 1 Day -- Stick to the city's famous Royal Mile and Edinburgh's Old Town. It is every bit a day's worth of activity, with plenty of history and attractions from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, shops, restaurants, and pubs. Wander down some of the alleys off the Royal Mile, too.

If You Have 2 Days -- Take the hop-on hop-off bus tour that emphasizes the New Town. Your ticket is good for 24 hours (although the buses stop running in the late afternoon or early evening). Get off at Calton Hill for the views, which Robert Louis Stevenson said were the best in the city. Amble down Princes Street for a bit of shopping, and afterwards, rest in Princes Street Gardens. Admire some art at one of the branches of the National Gallery.

If You Have 3 Days -- Take in Leith, Edinburgh's once rough-and-tumble port. Now increasingly gentrified, it is still evocative of a historic seaside village. The Botanic Garden on your way back into the city center is worth a visit. It is one of the best in Britain -- and that's saying something. If you have any time to spare, take one of the strolls outlined in chapter 8 and visit Stockbridge or the Meadows, which feel off the main tourist tracks.

If You Have 4 Days or More -- Climb Arthur's Seat for views of the city and the sea, or if you have children, take the family to the Edinburgh Zoo. Explore the regions around the city, with excursions up to St Andrews, to the coast and North Berwick, or west to nearby, historic Linlithgow.

Britannia: The Royal Yacht

The royal yacht Britannia was launched on April 16, 1953, and traveled more than a million miles before it was decommissioned in December 1997. Several cities then competed to permanently harbor the ship as a tourist attraction. The port of Leith won, and today the ship is moored (somewhat controversially) next to the Ocean Terminal shopping mall about 3km (2 miles) from Edinburgh's center. Once on board, you're guided around by an audio tour. You can see where Prince Charles and Princess Diana strolled the deck on their honeymoon, visit the drawing room and the Royal apartments, as well as explore the engine room, galleys, and captain's cabin.

All tickets should be booked as far in advance as possible by calling tel. 0131/555-5566. The yacht is open daily except Christmas and New Year's Day, with the first tour from April to October beginning at 9.30am, the last tour at 4:30pm. From November to March, the hours are 10am to 3:30pm. Lasting at least 90 minutes, the tour is self-guided with the use of an audio headset. Adults pay £9 ($17), seniors £7 ($13), and children ages 5 to 17 £5 ($9.25); those age 4 and under visit for free. A family ticket, good for two adults and up to three children, is £25 ($46). From Waverley Bridge, take either Lothian buses 22, 34, or 35 or the Majestic Tour Bus operated by Edinburgh Bus Tours .

The Monuments On Calton Hill

Calton Hill , rising 106m (350 ft.), is partially responsible for Edinburgh's being called the "Athens of the North." It's a bluff of monuments. People visit the promontory not only to see them up close but also to enjoy the panoramic views of the Firth of Forth and the city spread beneath it. The Parthenon-like structure at the summit, the National Monument, was meant to honor the Scottish soldiers killed during the Napoleonic wars. However, the money ran out in 1829 and the William H. Playfair-designed structure (sometimes referred to as "Edinburgh Disgrace") was never finished.

The Nelson Monument, containing relics of the hero of Trafalgar, dates from 1815 and rises more than 30m (100 ft.) above the hill. A time ball at the top falls at 1pm Monday through Saturday; historically it helped sailors in Leith set their time-pieces. The monument is open April to September, Monday from 1 to 6pm and Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm; and October to March, Monday through Saturday from 10am to 3pm. Admission is £3 ($5.50).

The old City Observatory along the western summit of Calton Hill was designed in 1818 by Playfair, whose uncle happened to be the president of the Astronomical Institute, for which is was built. Nearby, the circular Dougal Stewart's Monument of 1831 (by Playfair, as well) is not dissimilar to colonnades of the 1830 Burns Monument designed by Thomas Hamilton on the southern slopes of Calton Hill. It replicates the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates in Athens, which was also the inspiration for his earlier attempt to honor the poet in Alloway.

Down the hill towards Princes Street, in the Old Calton Burial Grounds, is a curiosity of special interest to visitors from the United States. The Emancipation or Lincoln Monument, erected in 1893, was dedicated to soldiers of Scottish descent who lost their lives in America's Civil War. It has a statue of President Abraham Lincoln with a freed slave at his feet. Some famous Scots are buried in this cemetery, too, with elaborate tombs honoring their memory (notably the Robert Adam-designed tomb for philosopher David Hume).

Dean Village

Dean Village is a former grain-milling center dating from the 12th century, which occupies a valley about 30m (100 ft.) deep. Originally called the Water of Leith Village, it's located at the end of Bells Brae off Queensferry Street, along the Water of Leith. You can enjoy a celebrated view by looking downstream under the high arches of Dean Bridge (1833), designed by Thomas Telford.

The village's old buildings have been restored and converted into apartments and houses. You don't come here for any one particular site but to stroll around and enjoy the ambience, which feels a hundred miles away from bustling Princes Street or the Royal Mile. You can also walk for kilometers along the Water of Leith, one of the most tranquil strolls in the greater Edinburgh area.

Special Events & Other Festivals

Hogmanay -- New Year's Eve in Scotland is traditionally bigger than Christmas and Edinburgh now hosts one of the biggest December 31 parties on the planet. In Scotland, the festivities traditionally don't really even begin until the clock strikes midnight, and then they continue until daybreak or later. In 1993, the Edinburgh City Council began a 3-day festival that features rock bands, street theater, and a lively procession. By 1997, the event had become so big that participation is reserved for ticket holders. For information, visit www.edinburghshogmanay.com.

Burns Night -- On January 25, Scots the world over gather to consume the traditional supper of haggis, neeps (turnips), and tatties (potatoes), accompanied by a dram of whisky, while listening to recitals of the works of Scotland's Bard, Robert "Rabbie" Burns, whose birthday is being celebrated. Burns suppers are held all over town.