Nightlife

Every summer, the Scottish capital becomes the cultural capital of Europe -- and the envy of every other tourist board in the U.K. -- when it hosts the Edinburgh Festival, which encompasses the Fringe, International Festival, Book Festival, Film Festival, and Jazz Festival. All totaled, they bring in thousands upon thousands of visitors to see hundreds upon hundreds of acts -- whether in comedy, dance, drama, music, and more. In August, the Scottish capital becomes a proverbial "city that never sleeps."

Dance Clubs -- Clubbing is not quite as huge as it was in the 1980s and 1990s, but it probably draws more people than the folk, jazz, and classical music scene combined. Here is just a sampling of what is typically going on in the clubs around Edinburgh.

Late-Night Eats -- Okay, it's Friday or Saturday night. You've been out to a play, the pub, or dance club, and now you're utterly starving, but it's somewhere between 11pm and 2am. You're not exactly sure because your watch seems to be keeping Australian time at the moment. Food will help. If you're in the West End, Lothian Road is your best bet. Try Lazio (95 Lothian Rd.; tel. 0131/229-7788) for a bit of pizza or pasta. It is open until midnight during the week and until 2am on Friday and Saturday nights (that is Sat and Sun mornings).

In Old Town, another Italian eatery caters to night owls: Gordon's Trattoria on the High Street, tel. 0131/225-7992, is open until 3am at the weekend. For something a bit more modern and trendy, Favorit is an NYC-style diner on Teviot Place, tel. 0131/220-6880 that stays open until 3am.

While the yearly Festival (www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk) is no doubt the peak of the year, Edinburgh offers a good selection of choices throughout the year when it comes to entertainment and activities after dark: from cinema to the clubs, theater or opera, the ballet, and other diversions, such as a night at the pub.

The most active areas for pubs and clubs are the Cowgate and Grassmarket in the Old Town and Broughton Street in New Town, although the university precincts on the south side of the city are lively, as are the pubs on the waterfront in the port of Leith.

The West End is the cradle of theater and music, with the legendary and innovative Traverse Theatre, as well as the Royal Lyceum Theatre and, for concerts, the classic Usher Hall. Nearby, the Filmhouse offers the best in independent and art-house cinema. Other venues for drama include the Playhouse and Festival theaters, while live music of a more contemporary vein takes place at venues such as the Liquid Room in Old Town. The folk scene centers on a couple of pubs (Sandy Bell's and the Royal Oak), and for jazz, your best bet is Henry's Jazz Cellar. Many of the city's pubs and bars are open until early hours of the morning during the Festival. Remember, all venues and bars are now nonsmoking.

For a complete rundown of what is happening in Edinburgh, pick up a copy of The List, a biweekly magazine available at all major newsstands and book shops. It previews, reviews, and gives the full details of arts events here -- and in Glasgow.

Folk Clubs -- Although internationally touring folkies -- performers such as Americans Gillian Welsh or Nanci Griffith are surprisingly big in Scotland -- usually get booked into one of the music halls, the day-to-day folk scene in Edinburgh takes place in unassuming public houses. Ceilidhs -- or Scottish country dance -- are hosted at places such as the Assembly Rooms on George Street in New Town (tel. 0131/220-4349).

Rock, Pop, and Jazz -- Usher Hall hosts some major rock and pop acts and, although not listed below, the Murrayfield Stadium, the national rugby stadium, hosts the biggest of acts -- whether REM or the Rolling Stones.

Gay & Lesbian Edinburgh -- The heart of the gay community is the area northwest of Calton Hill, incorporating the top of Leith Walk around the Playhouse Theatre and Broughton Street, though it is hardly a district such as Manhattan's Christopher Street or San Francisco's Castro.