What's New

Edinburgh and Glasgow are reasonably energetic cities, certainly the most dynamic in Scotland, and among the most lively and sophisticated outside of London in the entire U.K. Many Britons are impressed by how both Edinburgh and Glasgow feel less provincial than bigger cities in England.

Politically, the country of Scotland is still adjusting to having its own parliament, set up in the new buildings near the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh. Although the Parliament is often criticized in the tabloid mass-circulation press (or by devoted Unionists who disagree in principal with a separate legislative body in Scotland), public opinion polls tell a different tale. Scots appear to be more interested in their local Scottish parliamentarians (known as MSPs) than those who represent them at Westminster in London (aka MPs). The 2007 elections may throw up some surprises and will, no doubt, revive debate as to whether Scotland should be fully independent.

Alas, the controversial Parliament building itself suffered another embarrassment in 2006, when a 12-foot oak beam along the ceiling of its main debating chamber came loose. No one was hurt, but that part of the building was closed temporarily, and MSPs were forced to cram into a committee room too small for their numbers. However attractively modern, the edifice does seem a bit jinxed.

Here are some of the other latest developments in Edinburgh and Glasgow to consider.

Planning Your Trip

England appears to be a hotbed of some Islamic fundamentalism, and allegations of terrorist plotting have become more commonplace. A scare in August 2006 effectively shut down airports in London -- severely disrupting flights to and from both Edinburgh and Glasgow airports. In most cases, internal U.K. flights were simply cancelled, and people had to wait or make alternative plans, such as taking the train. Flying directly to Glasgow or Edinburgh from outside of the U.K. may be a safer bet than coming via busy Heathrow, which is bound to be a perceived terrorist target.

Smoking in Public

Since April 2006, Scottish law has banned smoking in all enclosed public spaces, which includes all pubs, bars, cafes, bistros, and restaurants. Some venues have established outdoor areas where customers can smoke.

Accomodations

In Edinburgh, the George hotel, 19-21 George St. (tel. 0131/225-1215), has had its public rooms, in-house bar, and restaurant completely updated in 2006. Opening in the summer of 2006 at the other end of George Street is Tigerlily, 125 George St. (tel. 0131/225-5005), a new boutique hotel, with designer bar and restaurant. At the top end of the capital's accommodations, the luxurious serviced apartments of the Chester Residence, 9 Chester St. (tel. 0131/226-2075), are drawing some rave reviews. In Glasgow, the same can be said of Glasgow Loft Apartments, 134 Renfrew St. (tel. 0141/419-1915).

Restaurants

In Edinburgh, the boom in Thai restaurants seems to never end. One of the best new restaurants is Time 4 Thai, 45 N. Castle St. (tel. 0131/225-8822). Another recent welcomed addition is Calistoga, 93 St. Leonard St. (tel. 0131/668-4207), which, as its name suggests, offers California-style cuisine and Napa Valley wines. In Glasgow, Michael Caines @ ABode, 129 Bath St. tel. 0141/572-6011) is the most significant recent development on the dining scene in the city center. Also worth noting is a branch of the London-based Japanese noodle bar, Wagamama, 97-103 W. George St. (tel. 0141/229-1468), which helps to confirm Glasgow's cosmopolitan, big city credentials. On the city's Southside, Urban Grill, 61 Kilmarnock Rd. (tel. 0141/649-2745), has made an impressive debut. (Watch for the same team to open a similar operation called Urban Bar and Brasserie in Glasgow's Commercial Center on St. Vincent Place.)

Attractions

The biggest news by far is in Glasgow: The long-anticipated and truly well-received reopening of the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Argyle Street (tel. 0141/276-9599). After its 3-year renovation, the home of the city's core art and artifact collection drew some quarter-million visitors in just its first 2 weeks. Less impressive, but still welcomed in Edinburgh, is the refurbished Scottish Storytelling Centre and John Knox House, 43 High St. (tel. 0131/556-9579). Next to come to the capital is dedicated exhibition space for the Scottish National Photography Centre, which may open in the old Royal High School on Calton Hill in 2008. Meanwhile, Glasgow anticipates a new, dashingly modern Museum of Transport on the south banks of the River Clyde.