What's New

Edinburgh and Glasgow are reasonably energetic cities, certainly the most dynamic in Scotland, and among the most lively and sophisticated outside of London in the entire U.K. Many Britons are impressed by how both Edinburgh and Glasgow feel less provincial than bigger cities in England.

Politically, the country of Scotland has had its first taste of government led by the Scottish National Party (SNP), which emerged from the May 2007 Scottish Parliamentary elections as the party with the most votes. Able to form a minority government only, the SNP has nevertheless impressed most observers with its first chance at the reins of power.

Although the Parliament is still criticized by the tabloid mass-circulation press (or by devoted "Unionists" who disagree in principal with a separate legislative body in Scotland), public opinion polls generally show that Scots appear to be pleased. Of course with the nationalists in control (at least for the time being), the debate as to whether Scotland should be fully independent will remain center stage. But they have said there will be no referendum on independence until 2010, by which time they will hope to have solidified their position.

Here are some of the other latest developments in Edinburgh and Glasgow to consider.

Planning Your Trip

England appears to be a hotbed of some Islamic fundamentalism, allegations of terrorist plotting have been made, and people arrested. Edinburgh or Glasgow would not seem like very likely targets, but all bets are off after a botched and amateurish attempt to bomb Glasgow's airport in July 2007. Still, flying directly to Glasgow or Edinburgh from outside of the U.K. is odds on to be a safer bet than coming via busy Heathrow, which is bound to be a perceived terrorist target.

Smoking in Public -- Since April 2006, Scottish law has banned smoking in enclosed public spaces, which includes all pubs, bars, nightclubs, concert halls, cafes, bistros, and restaurants. Despite some complaints from pub owners who say it has hurt business, it has been well-accepted and indeed it seems a long time since smoking was allowed. Some venues have established outdoor areas where customers can smoke.

Accommodations

In Edinburgh, the owners of Anoch Mor have sold that guesthouse to another local family and opened 23 Mayfield, 23 Mayfield Gardens (tel. 0131/667-5806), where they have more rooms and better parking than before. Pilrig House, a favorite of one Frommer's reader (thanks for your letters), has expanded to include more self-catering apartments in the historic home off Bonnington Rd. (tel. 0131/554-4794). In Glasgow, one of Frommer's longstanding tips for affordable but still rather luxurious accommodations, the Town House guesthouse, has been converted into private flats. But the same owners offer apartments in another well-appointed historic West End property, which is called the White House, 11-13 Cleveden Cres. (tel. 0141/339-9375).

Restaurants

The restaurant scene is always changing in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Chef Tom Kitchin made a big splash in Edinburgh and grabbed a Michelin star shortly after opening his Leith restaurant, aptly named the Kitchin, 78 Commercial Quay (tel. 0131/555-1755). In the West End of the capital, chef Tony Singh has opened a very special Indian restaurant, or more accurately a restaurant that serves Indian cuisine, with Roti, 73 Morrison St. (tel. 0131/221-9998). On the Royal Mile, Wedgwood the Restaurant, 267 Canongate (tel. 0131/558-8737), is another owner-operated place that quickly garnered an excellent reputation.

The Glasgow scene has been a bit more low-key. One popular seafood and fish restaurant has brought its winning formula to new premises with Two Fat Ladies @ the Buttery, 652 Argyle St. (tel. 0141/221-8188). In the city center, the most interesting addition is a dedicated Japanese restaurant, Nanakusa, 441 Sauchiehall St. (tel. 0141/332-6303). It serves a range of cuisine from noodle bowls and sushi to tempura and teppanyaki grilled dishes. And if you're a return visitor to Glasgow, please note that the excellent and entertaining Russian restaurant Café Cossachok has moved temporarily to 38 Albion St. (tel. 0141/553-0733).

Attractions

The long-anticipated and well-received 3-year revamping of the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Argyle Street (tel. 0141/276-9599), appears to have paid off: In 2008, it was apparently the most-visited attraction in all of Scotland. Whether it can maintain that position is not likely, but it's still a huge achievement for a municipal collection. A dedicated exhibition space for Scotland's national collection of photography has not faired as well. Plans for a Scottish National Photography Centre on the site of the Royal High School at Calton Hill appears to be on hold. Meanwhile, Glasgow still anticipates a new, dashingly modern Museum of Transport on the south banks of the River Clyde. It is now scheduled to open in 2011.