City Layout

Central Edinburgh is divided into the Old Town, where the city began, and the larger New Town, where it expanded in the 1700s. Many visitors find lodgings in New Town and tend to visit Old Town for sightseeing, dining, and drinking (note that the local parlance generally drops the definite article "the" for both Old Town and New Town). There are accommodations, however, in historic core of the city on High Street and in the Grassmarket.

Most everyone planning to travel to Edinburgh has heard of the Royal Mile, the main thoroughfare of Old Town, running from Edinburgh Castle in the west to the Palace of Holyroodhouse in the east. Because of its once smoky skies, Old Town earned the city the nickname "Auld Reekie." Today, the air is fine and the district is chock-a-block with tourist attractions, shops, and sidewalks full of out-of-town visitors for most months of the year. Both British Royalty and Scotland's Parliament (revived in 1999) are based in Old Town, as are city government offices and the country's legal elite. Another more infamous street at the southern base of the castle is the Grassmarket, where convicted criminals were once hanged on the gallows. But now it is home to restaurants, pubs, and hotels.

New Town is actually fairly old. North of Old Town, across what is today Princes Street Gardens, was first settled in the 18th century -- about a decade before the American declaration of independence was signed. By the end of that century, classic squares, streets, and town houses had been completed and the first New Town was soon expanded with more Georgian designs. The first New Town represents a "Golden Age of Edinburgh," with world-famous Princes Street. Today it is the city's main shopping precinct, with broad sidewalks and a park running its entire length -- all with panoramic views of Old Town and Castle.

North of and running parallel to Princes Street is New Town's second great boulevard, George Street. It begins at St. Andrew Square and runs west to Charlotte Square, full of bars, restaurants, and posh shops. Directly north of George Street is another impressive thoroughfare, Queen Street, opening onto Queen Street Gardens on its north side with views of the Firth of Forth. You may also hear a lot about Rose Street, a lane between Princes Street and George Street -- with many more pubs, shops, and restaurants.

Edinburgh's Southside and West End are primarily residential. The former is home to the city's well-regarded university (making parts of the area quite lively) and the sprawling park known as the Meadows. The West End includes the last of the New Town developments begun at the beginning of the 19th century. It has theaters, several small B&Bs, and swank boutique hotels as well as the city's most exclusive central neighborhoods.

Leith is Edinburgh's historic port where the Water of Leith meets the Firth of Forth. Leith briefly served as the Scottish capital and such was its strategic location that Oliver Cromwell's invading forces built a citadel here. It remained an independent burgh until the 20th century. Fans of Irvine Welsh (author of Trainspotting) will know that it has a rough and tumble reputation. But today most of its shipping and the sailors have gone, and lots of luxury apartments are being built. Still, it remains an evocative area and offers a good selection of seafood restaurants and nautical-themed pubs. It is also now the home of the Royal Yacht Britannia.

Finding an Address -- In Edinburgh, both street names and addresses might seem to have been created purposely to confuse visitors. Roads can change names for no apparent reason. To complicate matters, the city -- with the exception of the Old Town -- is checkered with squares, terraces, and circuses that interrupt whatever street you're trying to follow. Also the same name can be used for a lane, street, terrace, crescent, avenue, road, square, or garden: so make sure that you've not confused Argyll Place with Argyll Street.

House numbers can run sequentially on straight streets or clockwise or counterclockwise on circuses or squares -- if they exist at all. Some places don't bother with numbers. Our advice: Get a map. If you're looking for a specific location, get the name of the nearest cross street. The good news is that the locals are generally glad to assist a bewildered foreigner.