Near Waverley railway station, this is the city's leading independent, contemporary art gallery housed in a cavernous old market dramatically updated and modernized by architect Richard Murphy in the early 1990s. It hosts exhibits from both local and internationally renowned modern and conceptual artists, whether Louise Bourgeois, Cindy Sherman, and Yoko Ono - or Chad McCail and Nathan Coley. The Fruitmarket's bookshop and cafe are equally appealing. Across the street is the less innovative but still worthy city-run City Art Centre (2 Market St.; tel. 0131/529-3993).