The Best Art, Architecture & Museums

In Cairo

Egyptian Museum (Cairo; tel. 02/575-2448 or 578-2452; www.egyptianmuseum.gov.eg): The world's largest collection of Ancient Egyptian artifacts, with over 120,000 pieces on display. It's impossible to see everything in one visit, but make sure you catch the Tutankhamun exhibit, with its famous gold mask and sarcophagus.

Saqqara: A fine collection of pyramids and tombs on the outskirts of Cairo, in an area that was once the cemetary for the ancient city of Memphis. Best known for its Step Pyramid, said to be the prototype for the larger and more sophisticated Pyramids at Giza.

Islamic Cairo: A whole district of ancient alleys, squares and mosques, including the magnificent Mosque of Ibn Tulun. Check out the nearby Gayer Anderson Museum, a restored Ottoman home that was featured in the James Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me. Spend a day or more strolling around, and visit the Citadel and the Museum of Islamic Arts.

Hanging Church: Built over a 2nd century Roman gate, this church dedicated to the Virgin Mary was started as early as the 3rd century and has been a work in progress ever since. It is said to be the oldest church in Egypt. Highlights include wonderfully preserved icons, an ancient marble pulpit, and friendly volunteer guides from the local church group.

In Upper Egypt

Abu Simbel: You've probably seen pictures of this gigantic monument in Abu Simbel before: four seated colossi of Ramses II carved into the mountain, forming one of the boldest temple facades in the world. Known as the Great Temple of Ramses II, it is aligned so the sun's rays travel through the mountain and illuminate Ramses' sanctuary twice a year -- on October 22 and February 22.

Karnak: One of the largest concentration of temples in the world, spanning an area almost the size of Central Park. Lose yourself in an avenue of sphinxes or a forest of stone columns colored and inscribed with hieroglyphs. Stand under monumental gateways and rest in the shade of the once holy sanctuaries. Along with the Pyramids and Abu Simbel, Karnak is one of the best known and most impressive sights in Egypt.

Abydos: Ancient Egyptians wanted above else to be buried in Abydos, as near as possible to the tomb of Osiris, god of the netherworld. Those who couldn't afford it had their names inscribed on stone tablets there instead. Seti I's Temple to Osiris, more than 3,000 years old is a fascinating example of ancient relief work, and used to be one of the most beautiful houses of worship of ancient times.

Theban Necropolis: Probably the largest cemetery in the world, carved into the cliffs of a remote hill, where New Kingdom pharaohs tried to hide their tombs from raiders. The highlight is the Valley of the Kings, with over 60 tombs dating from 1570 B.C. to 1085 B.C. Colorful depictions of daily life in Egypt, and elaborate spiritual texts adorn the walls and ceilings. It was here that Tutankhamun's treasures were discovered.

Kom Ombo: One of the most important towns in Ancient Egypt, with the magnificent Temple of Horus and Sebek standing on the banks of the Nile. The temple is a curiosity because it's dedicated to two deities, Sobek and Haroeris.

In Alexandria

Kom Al Dikka: Misleadingly called the "Mound of Rubble," this is an impressive collection of ruins on a site that was formerly a Roman garden. Check out the Roman theater, made of marble and surrounded by elegant columns and mosaic paving.

Catacombs of Kom Al-Shoqafa: Alexandria's most awesome archeological find, a 2,000-year old underground burial site, complete with a funeral banquet hall, carved sarcophagi and elaborately decorated walls. Particularly interesting for its combination of Egyptian and Greco-Roman styles.

Bibliotheca Alexandrina (tel. 03/483-9999; www.bibalex.org): A recently inaugurated resurrection of the ancient library of Alexandria, which stood for 600 years before burning down in the 3rd century. In its age, the Bibliotheca held the largest collection of books, and was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The new structure, resembling an angled discus, was designed by a Norwegian architect and cost about $200 million.