Frommer's Review
Behind a beach-bum bar facade hides what most Italian gastronomic critics agree is the best dining on Elba. Snuggled into the beach at the Enfola headland, friendly family-run Emanuele excels at marrying the catch of the day and pick of the crustaceans with fresh pastas and seasonal vegetables. Reserve ahead for one of a few tables in the pocket-size courtyard out back, strewn with gravel and shaded by pine trees and umbrellas just feet from the waves lapping at the pebble beach. The gaganelli branzino e verdure (sea bass scented with rosemary and tossed with zucchini, carrots, oil, and a bit of peperoncino) is outstanding, as is the simple tagliolini bottarga e carciofi (thin pasta strands twirled with grated tuna roe and artichoke hearts). For a secondo, have them grill or oven-roast the sea bream, grouper, or perch pulled in by local fishermen that morning, or try the island specialty totani alla diavola (small cuttlefish cooked up with oil and hot peppers). Save room for the torta di mele (warm caramelized apple torte drizzled with sweetened cream).
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