Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Eleuthera has two main airports. North Eleuthera Airport (tel. 242/335-1068), obviously, serves the north along with the two major offshore cays, Harbour Island and Spanish Wells. Governor's Harbour Airport (tel. 242/332-2321) serves the center of the island.

Bahamasair (tel. 800/222-4262; www.bahamasair.com) offers daily flights between Nassau and the three airports.

In addition, several commuter airlines with regularly scheduled service fly from the Florida mainland with either nonstop or one-stop flights. Many private flights use the North Eleuthera Airport, with its 1,350m (4,428-ft.) paved runway. It is an official Bahamian port of entry, and a Customs and Immigration official is on hand. USAir Express (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) operates one of the most popular ways of reaching two of Eleuthera's airports from the Florida mainland. Flights depart once a day from Miami flying nonstop to North Eleuthera and then continue on, after briefly unloading passengers and baggage, to Governor's Harbour. Continental Airlines (tel. 800/525-0280; www.continental.com) flies once daily from Miami and twice daily from Fort Lauderdale. Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) flies three times a week from Atlanta.

Other small carriers include Twin Air (tel. 954/359-8266; www.flytwinair.com), flying from Fort Lauderdale three times a week to Rock Sound and Governor's Harbour, and Thursday to Tuesday to North Eleuthera.

By Ferry -- An interisland link, Bahamas Fast Ferries (tel. 242/323-2166; www.bahamasferries.com) originates in Potter's Cay, beneath the Paradise Island Bridge, and fans out at regular intervals to Harbour Island, North Eleuthera, and Governor's Harbour. Round-trip fares are $110 (£58) for adults, $70 (£37) for children under 12.

By Mail Boat -- Several mail boats visit Eleuthera from Nassau, leaving from Potter's Cay Dock. Weather conditions often cause their schedules to change. For details about sailings, consult the dock master at Potter's Cay Dock in Nassau (tel. 242/393-1064).

The MV Current Pride goes from Nassau to Current Island, serving lower and upper Bogue. It departs Nassau every Thursday and returns on Tuesday.

The Bahamas Daybreak III departs on Monday for South Eleuthera, stops at Rock Sound, and returns to Nassau on Tuesday. It then leaves from Nassau on Thursday for the Bluff and Harbour Island, with a Sunday return scheduled. The Eleuthera Express sails from Nassau to Spanish Wells and Governor's Harbour on Monday and Thursday, and returns to Nassau on Sunday and Tuesday.

Getting Around

It's virtually impossible to get lost on Eleuthera -- there's only one road that meanders along the entire length of its snake-shaped form, and you'll stray from it only very rarely. Most visitors take a taxi only when they arrive at one of the local airports or when they have to return to that airport to go home. Taxis meet all incoming flights and are also available at ferry docks. Because cabbies are independent operators on Eleuthera, you can't call one central number. If you need to call a taxi, your hotel staff can summon one for you, but you may have to wait a while, so plan ahead.

You can easily traverse all the settlements -- really, hamlets, in most cases -- on foot. With little traffic on the island, walking is an enjoyable experience here.

You don't find any American car-rental agencies on the island. Usually, your hotel staff can arrange for a car rental (prices are $80-$100/£42-£53 a day). Often we've ended up with someone's private car. The best bet for car rentals on the island is Highway Service Station (tel. 242/332-2077) or Hilton's Car Rentals (tel. 242/335-6241).