The Copper Canyon
El Paso is often a jumping-off point for trips to the Copper Canyon in northwestern Mexico. If you are interested in seeing a rugged and beautiful land; if you're interested in taking one of the most remarkable train trips in the world; if you're interested in hiking or riding horseback through remote areas to see an astonishing variety of flora and fauna; or if you're curious about a land still populated by indigenous people living pretty much the way they have for centuries, the Copper Canyon is the place to go.
Most often, when people say "Copper Canyon," they are referring to a section of the Sierra Madre known commonly in Mexico as the Sierra Tarahumara (after the Indians who live there). The area was formed through violent volcanic uplifting, followed by a slow, quiet process of erosion that carved a vast network of canyons into the soft volcanic stone.
Crossing the Sierra Tarahumara is the famed Chihuahua al Pacífico (Chihuahua to the Pacific) railway. Acclaimed as an engineering marvel, the 390-mile railroad has 39 bridges (the highest is more than 1,000 ft. above the Chinipas River) and 86 tunnels. It climbs from Los Mochis, at sea level, up nearly 8,000 feet through some of Mexico's most magnificent scenery -- thick pine forests, jagged peaks, and shadowy canyons -- before descending again to its destination, the city of Chihuahua.
It's easier than ever to get to the region, but it's trickier than ever to travel through it on your own -- hotel rooms can be hard to come by, and there have been numerous changes in the operation of the Copper Canyon train. Consequently, this is not the place to do casual, follow-your-nose traveling. A number of tour operators and packagers book trips to the Copper Canyon. The easiest thing is to contract with an agency that will plan your trip from El Paso. San Diego Leisure (tel. 800/605-1257; www.tourcoppercanyon.com) sets up trips for any number of people using regular bus service and the Copper Canyon train. Or, you can take a bus to Chihuahua and contact a travel agency there that will book a trip into the canyon. This would be the cheapest and most flexible way to do it. I recommend Turismo al Mar (tel. 877/228-1288; www.copper-canyon.net).
Another option is to go with a custom tour operator; travel through these companies generally allows you more time in the canyon and a better experience. The best of the bunch is Columbus Travel (tel. 800/843-1060; www.canyontravel.com), which is pretty much in a class by itself. It has lined up some beautiful small lodges in the canyons and staffed them with talented local guides. Another operator that provides good service is the El Paso-based Native Trails (tel. 800/884-3107; www.nativetrails.com).
For more information on traveling in the Copper Canyon, pick up a copy of Frommer's Mexico or check out www.frommers.com/destinations/thecoppercanyon.
