Driving Tours

Driving the Panorama Route

This drive takes you past the Blyde River Canyon, the third-largest canyon in the world, and the sheer 1,600m (5,248-ft.) drop from the Escarpment to the warm lowveld plains shimmering below. Hot air rising over this wall generates the heavy mists and high rainfall that, in turn, create the unique montane grasslands and riverine forests of the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, which start just north of Graskop before broadening out to include the Blydepoort Dam, 60km (37 miles) north. To complete the Panorama Route as a circular trip (approximately 160km/99 miles), stopping for most of the view points and returning to either Sabie or Graskop, set aside a day.

As you follow the tour below, refer to the "Panorama Route & Sabie" map earlier in this chapter for more information.

To drive this route, take the R532 north out of Graskop before turning right on the R534. The first stop is the Pinnacle -- a thin 30m-tall (98-ft.) quartzite rock topped with trees that juts below the view point -- but God's Window, 4km (2 1/2 miles) farther, which offers the first view of the open lowveld plains, is more impressive. (Wonderview is a variation of this and can be skipped if you're pressed for time.) The looping R534 now rejoins the R532. Turn left and look for the sign if you want to visit Lisbon Falls, which drop 37m (121 ft.). To continue on to Blyde River Canyon, turn right onto the R532, taking in the 48m (157-ft.) Berlin Falls on the way. If you're ready for refreshments, the Berlin Peacock Tavern (tel. 013/767-1085) lies on the way to the Berlin Falls -- aside from some spectacularly over-the-top baroque decor, the food is delicious, and according to the visitors book, even rival lodge-owners visit regularly.

Back on the R532, head north for Bourke's Luck Potholes (tel. 013/761-6019). Here gold-digger Bourke predicted that he would strike it lucky, but he found nothing in these large scooped formations, carved by the movement of pebbles and water in the swirling whirlpools created by the confluence of the Blyde and Treur rivers. Bourke was not the last person to be disappointed by the Potholes -- it's a long walk to look at them, and they reveal very little. Nor does the visitor center, which, in addition to some dry displays on the geology of the area, features a few dusty stuffed animals that look close to decomposing. The lichen trail is very easy and good for children. Gates open from 7am to 5pm; admission is R22 ($3/£1.50).

Some 20km (12 miles) north is the lookout for the Three Rondawels, by far the most impressive stop of the entire trip. The name -- which refers to the three circular hut-shaped outcrops that are more-or-less opposite the lookout -- does nothing to describe the humbling size of what beckons. A sheer drop threatens to pull you off the precipice; thousands of feet below, the Blyde River snakes its way through the canyon to the tranquil Blyde Dam, embraced by green mountains. Beyond, the great lowveld plains shimmer in the distance.

Tip: If you're feeling thirsty, drop into the Aventura Blydepoort Resort (the turnoff is a couple of miles north past the Three Rondawels and clearly signposted; tel. 013/769-8005), which offers another angle on the Three Rondawels from its terrace; however, much beyond a toasted sandwich is not recommended. (To take a look at its budget self-catering lodging, go to www.aventura.co.za -- and ask for a cottage with a view.)

From here you will descend the Abel Erasmus Pass before passing through the J. G. Strijdom Tunnel -- approximately 20km (12 miles) from here is the turnoff for Monsoon Gallery (tel. 015/795-5114), off the R527. Monsoon carries a fine selection of African crafts, but stock is often limited; you can also enjoy a light meal at the adjacent Mad Dogz Café (tel. 015/795-5425).

At this point, you can stay on the R527, heading east for Hoedspruit, if you wish to enter the Timbavati private game reserve, or head for the airport. If not, take the R531 southeast to Klaserie -- look for the turnoff to Aventura Swadini (tel. 015/795-5961). From here you can take a 90-minute boat trip on the Blyde Dam to see the mouth of the canyon and look up at the Escarpment towering above (R70/$9.70/£5 per adult, R40/$6/£3 children 5-15). The R531 takes you to Kruger to enter via Orpen Gate (the closest to the Satara Rest Camp), or to travel to the Manyeleti or northern Sabi Sand reserves via Gowry Gate. Turn north on the R40 to Kapama, a fenced private reserve and site of the popular Hoedspruit Research and Breeding Centre for Endangered Species (tel. 015/793-1633), also known as the "Cheetah Project." This is also the pickup point for Kapama's exciting elephant-back safaris. The latter is well worth considering: For R1,250 ($174/£89), you get to be transported through big-game country on the back of one of these lumbering giants and learn more about this most intelligent of species; for times and bookings, call Karin at tel. 015/793-1633. The Cheetah Project is equally educational but far less exhilarating. Guided tours (daily, every hour 8am-3pm) kick off with a video presentation, after which you are driven through the center by a ranger, sighting cheetahs, wild dogs, rhinos, and various bird species. At 90 minutes, the tour is a tad long, and although one of the cheetahs has been successfully released into the wild, it still feels a little like a large, comfortable zoo. The tour that takes in the rare Barbary lion -- identified by his extended black mane -- is more like a traditional game drive (the lions are kept in a 6.8-hectare/17-acre area) but will take 3 hours out of your day.

To return to Graskop, take the R40 south from Klaserie, then follow the R533 from Bosbokrand, climbing Kowyn's Pass to Graskop. (Note that the R40 between Hazyview and Acorn Hoek is unsafe to travel at night when animals wander at will, and a few travelers have been ambushed. During daylight you're more likely to be pulled over for speeding, so take it easy.)