advertisement

This church deserves to be better known: Although it's one of Évora's undisputed gems, it's seemingly little visited. The Gothic-Mudéjar Church of St. John the Evangelist, facing the Temple of Diana and next door to the government-owned pousada, is connected to the palace built by the dukes of Cadaval. It contains a collection of 18th-century tiles, and a guide will show you a macabre sight -- an old cistern filled with neatly stacked bones removed from tombs. In the chapel's sacristy are some paintings, including a ghastly rendition of Africans slaughtering a Christian missionary. One highlight is a painting of a pope that has moving eyes and moving feet. You can also see part of the wall that once encircled Évora here.