Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- The region's major commercial airport, Exuma International Airport, is 16km (10 miles) from George Town, the capital. The most popular way to visit the Exumas is to fly there aboard Bahamasair (tel. 800/222-4262; www.bahamasair.com), which offers twice-daily service from Nassau to George Town. The first flight usually leaves Nassau in the morning sometime around 6:20am, depending on the day. The second flight is at 4pm. Be sure and call ahead because flight schedules are subject to change.

American Eagle (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) serves Exuma from Miami three times daily. Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) has also recently begun service to George Town, flying from Atlanta four times a week.

Other minor carriers servicing the archipelago include Lynx Air International (tel. 888/596-9247; www.lynxair.com), on Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays, with air links from Fort Lauderdale.

By Boat -- There is now a motorized catamaran making the 8-hour transit from Nassau. It arrives in George Town every Monday and Wednesday at 7:30pm and departs on Tuesday and Thursday. The cost of a round-trip fare is US$100 (£50) per person. Technically designed for transporting building supplies and freight, it nonetheless allows passengers as well, many of whom stretch out on the deck in sleeping bags. There are no sleeping compartments onboard. For information, call Bahamas Ferry at tel. 242/323-2166 or check www.bahamasferries.com.

Several mail boats leave from Potter's Cay Dock in Nassau, stopping at various points along the Exumas. Two mail steamers, the MV Grand Master and the Captain C, sail from Nassau several days a week, stopping at Big Farmer's Cay, Staniel Cay, Black Point, George Town, and Barraterre (stopovers last no more than a few hours). Passengers, as well as small amounts of freight, are allowed onboard. It usually takes about 21 hours for either of the ships to make the full-circuit itinerary described above.

Since sailing schedules are subject to change because of weather conditions, check times with the dock master at Potter's Cay Dock in Nassau (tel. 242/393-1064).

Getting Around

After arriving at the George Town airport, chances are you'll meet Kermit Rolle. Kermit, who runs things up in Rolleville, knows as much about the Exumas as anyone (maybe more). Stop in at Kermit's Airport Lounge, from 7am to 5:30pm, Exuma International Airport (tel. 242/345-0002), which is just across from the airport terminal building. If you're lucky, Kermit will be available and you can negotiate a deal with him to take you in his car for a tour.

By Taxi -- If your hotel is in George Town, it will cost about US$25 (££13) to get there in a taxi from the airport. Rides often are shared. If you're going on to Stocking Island, an islet in Elizabeth Harbour, make prior arrangements with your hotel for boat transfers. The island has only a few taxis, and most of them wait at the airport. Hotels can usually get you a taxi if you need to go somewhere and don't have a car. Otherwise, for a taxi, call Leslie Dames at tel. 242/357-0405.

By Car -- It's also possible to rent a car during your stay, though the major North American companies aren't represented here. Try Exuma Transport, Main Street, George Town (tel. 242/336-2101). They rent cars for US$60 (£30) and up per day or US$325 (£163) per week. A US$200 (£100) deposit is required. Your hotel can also usually arrange a rental car for you through a local firm.

The George Town area has two gas stations: one near Exuma International Airport and the other in Farmers Hill. They're generally open Monday to Saturday 8am to 5pm, Sunday 8am to noon, and 8 to 10am on holidays.

By Boat -- For ferries between George Town and the beaches on Stocking Island, call Club Peace & Plenty at tel. 242/336-2551. With departures twice a day, the ferries are complimentary to Club Peace & Plenty guests. If you're not staying at that hotel, the cost is US$10 (£5) round-trip and free for children under age 10.

By Foot -- George Town is designed for strolling, but don't expect sights that scream "tourist attraction." This is a handsome little waterfront village where browsing at the tree-shaded straw market, sampling fresh conch salad at the dock, and mingling with residents and fellow vacationers over drinks and home-style meals are the big draws. The most idyllic walk is around Lake Victoria.

Shuttle service is provided to town from Exuma Beach Inn, or you can walk the scenic mile. If you don't succumb to wheels, you can enjoy leisurely glimpses of the turquoise and neon-blue water through the wispy casuarina pines and bushy coconut palms lining Queen's Highway. "Highway" is a serious overstatement, so walking here is fine, as traffic is sparse.