Saddle Cay: The Perfect Beach
For years, boaters have known of a special beach, Saddle Cay, whose horseshoe-shaped curve lies near the small archipelago's northern tip. The only way to reach it is by private boat; there are no organized excursions or tours (the Exumas are much too laid-back for that). However, if you own a boat, head for Saddle Cay, and you won't be disappointed when you see this totally unspoiled beach of white sand and tranquil water. The cay is perfect for beachcombers, bird-watchers, and snorkelers -- but don't expect facilities.
The Remote Darby Islands
There is an idyllic chain of five privately owned little islands in the Exumas, in the indigo waters of Exuma Sound to the east of Great Bahama Bank. They are called Big Darby (our favorite), Little Darby, Goat Cay, Bette Cay, and Guana Cay. These islands lie 458km (286 miles) southeast of Miami and 154km (96 miles) south of Nassau and are accessible only by boat or charter aircraft.
If you have time for only one, make it Big Darby, where you can hike to a decaying castle that's been abandoned for more than half a century. Talk about Gone With the Wind. You can see the ruins of Darby Castle, built as a working plantation in 1938 by an Englishman known as Sir Baxter. As a plantation, it became during World War II the largest employer in the southern Bahamas; its workers helped produce palm oil, fruit, cotton, and even goats. Today, the castle is the stuff of legend, with many tall tales told about the Englishman and his mistress. (Was he a Nazi sympathizer?) Though the so-called castle is in ruins, you can take a potentially dangerous walk to the second landing with its large stone-built balcony where you can take in one of the grandest panoramas in the Exumas.
Come to the Darby islands for some of The Bahamas' most beautiful beaches; the sand is the color and texture of sifted flour. On Little Darby and Big Darby, there are more than 10 good beaches. The best snorkeling and dive spot is the little harbor nestled between the two islands.
